Shakey FPR gauge???

[mitsuclipsegsx]

Is there a way to tighen it? If not ill just buy another one. Is this where I take it off?

 

[turboglenn]

Are you talking about the needle jumping around a bit? If so that's normal from engine vibration, especially with mechanical FP guages.

There's no way to "tighten" the needle down. You may want to try a liquid filled guage (the liquid stops MOST of the vibration from shaking teh needle too much, but doesn't stop it 100%)

If you just can't take the shaky'ness, then get yourself an electronic in car guage, between the isolator at the firewall and the damper valve that's on some models, the guage will be steady and you'll be able to see FP from inside the car!

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

Are you talking about the needle jumping around a bit? If so that's normal from engine vibration, especially with mechanical FP guages.

There's no way to "tighten" the needle down. You may want to try a liquid filled guage (the liquid stops MOST of the vibration from shaking teh needle too much, but doesn't stop it 100%)

If you just can't take the shaky'ness, then get yourself an electronic in car guage, between the isolator at the firewall and the damper valve that's on some models, the guage will be steady and you'll be able to see FP from inside the car!

Sorry for the confusion, no the whole gauges shakes, i can hear it when i drive, so annoying..

 

[turboglenn]

Oh, well you can tighten it into the FPR a bit more, but if it's not leaking it's probably tight enough. You may need to tighten the whole FPR tighter to whatever it's bolted to. Hoever it doens't look bolted to anything in that pic, but i am not able to see everything either.

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

I mean the face plate shakes, jeezs i can't explain anything today,, i'll just buy a new gauge, mine deff comes off right?

 

[T9S1i]

if the glass shakes then just squeeze it on the gauge body more, there should be a little metal ring that holds it to the gauge body and sometimes it vibrates loose.

 

[DSMunknown]

Reminds me of this post.

I've had it mentioned by every mechanic who's worked on my car that I should remove the gauge I have on, and replace it with a quick-connect fitting, only attaching the gauge when needed to actually check pressure... horror stories about gauges leaking or breaking and spraying fuel underhood, resulting in car fires.

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

I've had this setup for 3 years, how would gas leak if the gauge broke?

 

[turboglenn]

I can see how a guage could cause a fire, but they are isolated from teh fuel, so it would take more than just the glass breaking to start spewing fuel under the hood.

You can either just pinch the metal ring that holds the glass down a little tighter or replace the guage. If comes off by unscrewing it at the 7/16ths brass fitting on the back of the guage in the picture. Really easy to do, if you can turn a wrench you can replace that guage.

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

So i found a leak now, that would explain the crappy gas millege. But i can't figure out why its leaking, in the pic its right between the blue peice and the black peice, but everything is deff tighten. Any ideas?

 

[DSMunknown]

Did you put a drop of motor oil on the male threads before screwing the elbow on? If not, you definitely need to do that, to have a great seal. You do not need a lot. One single drop will do. All you're aiming to do is have a very thin (but clean) film of oil on the threads.

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

Whats werid is ive had this for 3 years? why now, i did the motor swap but didnt diconnect it where its leaking, should i use the teflon tape also?

 

[DSMunknown]

Don't ask me why, but I did use Teflon tape on the AN fittings directly attached to the AFPR only. On my SS braided feed line and AFPR feed line I used oil. Not sure why I didn't just use oil all around. Would have done it differently if I had another chance.

Could be the stress and vibration over the years taking a tole on the AN fitting and threads. I can't tell - is anything supporting the AFPR's weight other than the AN fitting? If there is nothing else, read 95GSXracer's first post in this thread.

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

So i just went ahead and bought the firewall install kit, but i dont get how the fittings go on the line. Do I have to take some of the metal wire off the line to get the fitting on????

 

[turboglenn]

Wrap it tight in duct tape (what i use) then cut it slowly with a high speed cutter on a dremel or air grinder. Then rinse teh line to get the debri out of it. The fitting should have threads inside that are reverse thread and really course to grab on the line and allow you to spin the fitting on (unless it's the one brand that doens't do that still ). But you want to take teh red part off and get that on the outside of the line first. Then take and put a tad bit of oil on the blue part and thread it down into teh red to lock it on the SS line

HOpe that helps
Glenn

 

[DSMunknown]

I don't recommend using any kind of tape except painter's tape.

I did my AFPR install a few months ago. I have some thoughts and comments.

For anyone who is following this how-to thread, there are some things you must take a few things into consideration. Here are a few things I realized when installing this product and this product. Here they are, in no particular order.

• Use painter's tape. Do not use eletrical tape or duct tape. Why do I suggest painter's tape over anything else? Painter's tape is made up of paper, so it will burn when you are cutting through the SS braids. Eletrical and duct tape are made up of plastic, which will tend to melt. When this melting happens, the tape will get in the way of cutting, and part of the SS braids will unravel and not stay tight against the rest of the braids. Just use painter's tape. You'll thank me later.
• Do not remove the tape when installing the SS line onto the AN fitting. Removing the tape will tend to lift the SS braids off the hose, which will make it that much harder putting on the AN fitting. Don't worry, the tape won't effect the security of the AN fitting staying on.
• Check to see if the AN fitting is a reverse fitting. "What is a reverse fitting?" you ask. A reverse fitting actually is incorporated with reverse threads (thus the reason why the fitting is called a "reverse" fitting). The point in having reverse threading is to tighten down and secure the female AN fitting when installing it on an appropriate male AN fitting. When these two fittings are being tightened together, the female AN reverse fitting with continue to grab/bite down on the SS line, instead of loosening up. When I purchased these two products from Import Evolution, I noticed all the female AN fittings were reverse fittings. So following the above how-to guide that Bob put together will not be a very good reference point when he tells you to "bash the fitting on a counter top".
• Utilize a handheld cut off wheel, not a handheld drill fitted with a cut off wheel.
• When looking at some of Bob's photos, you should notice that his fittings are all scratched up. For those of you who care and are looking for the "bling" status, use an old rag and wrap the female AN fitting. Put this fitting in a vise and lightly tighten the AN fitting in. Then use a wrench and slowly start to turn the male AN fitting on. This way, none of your fittings will be scuffed up.

There are several other notes that I have skipped over, either because they are widely known, or because they have already been covered over and over again.

 

[turboglenn]

I've tried every type of tape there is and have had the best luck with duct tape. Not saying it's the best, but once you start to pound the red part on and start threading it down you can pull the tape right from under it so that there's no tape left when you're done.

Either way that's a great write up on AN fitting install.

 

[KFT0001]

Reminds me of this post.

I actually did have my gauge spring a leak on me. Luckily when I caught it before anything came of it (well not so lucky as the only reason I pulled off the track and popped my hood was that it overheated pretty bad). I didn't know that they had quick release fittings that fit in there. Sounds like a great idea.

 

[Burnett03]

I always use electrical tape with good results.. Also you should never use teflon tape on an fittings.

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

Also you should never use teflon tape on an fittings.

Why is that?

 

[talontd92tsi]

I would much rather use teflon tape on AN fittings over electrical tape.....

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I do believe teflon dissolves with gasoline (or was it oil). Either way, I've had goodluck with teflon anyway. As far as getting the line on, you guys make it very complicated.

1. seperate the red fitting from the blue fitting (you're only using the red one for now).
2. take electrical tape and wrap ONE or TWO layers (stretch the tape as tight as you can) around the ss line.
3. take a flat tipped chisel like this:

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put it perpindicular to the ss line and take a big ass hammer and hit it as hard as you can. The chisel will make the BEST and cleanest cut.
4. peel the electrical tape off. you should now have a nice clean ss line to work with.
5. guide the line into the red fitting, spin the fitting and gently put the line (work with it, use a flat headed screw driver to push the frayed parts in) in until there is enough to work with.
6. take the line and jam in straight down into the ground or against a wall. twist as you do this.
7. once the line is all the way into the fitting, screw the red fitting back onto the blue fitting.

that's all.

 

[gsxtasy]

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Or buy these, they're WAY easier.

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

Do i have to use the ss line, can I just use a regular fuel line. I am finding it impossible to cut(a clean cut) with what i have?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

use a flat chisel and hammer !!

If not, you can buy that blue high pressure (MUST be high pressure, you can't use regular fuel line) stuff with the above barbed AN fitting.