420A SAE 15W-40 for 420A?

[TTVxIndicaxHigh]

I was recommended SAE 15W-40 for my 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS with a 420A. Will my engine take that oil. It recommends 15W-30 but, I heard 15W-40 won't hurt it that much. I wanna hear the community's opinion before I pour it in thier.

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Also is the Mishimoto Liquid Chill Synthetic Engine Coolant radiator fluid sense that will need to be filled as well. Hoping that is radiator fluid that I can use.

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[JeffGS-T97]

Personally i would not go that high. Using oil like that in a really hot climate might be ok. As for in the cold i would be afraid it would starve for lubrication in some of the tighter areas of the engine and the oil pressure might be a little too high during warm up. I tried running heavier oils in past vehicles back in the day and it usually lead to oil leaks for me.

 

[TTVxIndicaxHigh]

Personally i would not go that high. Using oil like that in a really hot climate might be ok. As for in the cold i would be afraid it would starve for lubrication in some of the tighter areas of the engine and the oil pressure might be a little too high during warm up. I tried running heavier oils in past vehicles back in the day and it usually lead to oil leaks for me.

Okay I just purchased it! I saw a dude that runs it in his eclipse an he said sense my 420A has a rod knock putting new oil that could fix the issue. I purchased this ride from a old owner an when I got it all the fluids were gone. So another DSM guy he told me to pick up 5W-40 an that could possibly fix the issue. If it's not damaged enough. The car starts up beautifully with no issue but, the second the rod sound starts. I shut it off immediately. Imma pick up some gas for it tomorrow.

We are both hoping it's just a oil issue. Because it only has 200K miles on that engine. I just ordered the 50/50 Radiator fluid instead of Full Synthetic

 

[Mello]

If you have rod knock you should stop driving, drain & check oil for metal flakes, & even consider removing the oil pan & inspect all your bearings. With 200K miles there's a lot of maintenence that you should verify and do pending inspection results.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

I'm using 10w-40 with no issues. But I am storing the car during the colder weather.

But using thicker oil is like putting a bandaid on the problem. If you have a rod knocking you at least need to polish the crank and get oversized rod bearings. Or you could source a low mileage crankshaft in good shape and get fresh standard size bearings for it.

 

[Chewy4g63]

I'm using 10w-40 with no issues. But I am storing the car during the colder weather.

But using thicker oil is like putting a bandaid on the problem. If you have a rod knocking you at least need to polish the crank and get oversized rod bearings. Or you could source a low mileage crankshaft in good shape and get fresh standard size bearings for it.

He's working on a rebuild, so the right fix is coming but it needs a bandaid just this second.

 

[CKOPOCT]

At this point you really are playing Russian Roulette with the engine. 200K miles and a possible rod knock? Will using thicker oil take up the slack being caused by a worn rod bearing? Yes, it could... much like putting on an extra sock can make up for wearing a shoe that's too big. But the worn bearing and punished crank journal are still there, and as the engine gets warm/hot the oil will thin out and the slop in the rod will still be present. You're still going to get a blister on your heel... just might take a bit longer, and I still wouldn't go jogging.

If you are just itching to run the car and cannot or don't want to wait until you have a rebuilt engine, then understand you are taking your chances by running a damaged engine. I've known guys who have had knocking, clunking engines that poot blue smoke all down the road -- they just dump in some Marvel Mystery Honey Gunk and keep it rolling for months, pissing off every Tesla owner along the way. They just go pull a junk engine when theirs gives up the ghost. I've been surprised at how long some of them have lasted. Others weren't so fortunate and wished they could get their $20 back for the additive they poured in that ended up pooling on their driveway.

 

[JusMX141]

Diesel oil is not a good choice for any engine being run at sustained high RPM. Local diesel pullers actually run the same PennGrade racing oil that drag guys use because diesel oil can aerate and foam from the detergent package causing momentary lapses in lubrication or scoring/burning if it's injected into a tight tolerance at high pressure. Some people do run it year-round and it's fine, but something to consider is Rotella is what Subaru owners love, while their cars love to stack rod bearings. That's a statistic I'd rather not participate in.

That being said, diesel-grade oil is the closest consumer oil you can currently buy to what our cars would've used 25 years ago with the exception of the detergent package. For daily driving with occasional abuse I'd suggest mixing 2qts of high-detergent diesel oil with 2qts of low-detergent racing oil....if you never go above 3500rpms then the diesel oil alone will probably be fine.

 

[TTVxIndicaxHigh]

Diesel oil is not a good choice for any engine being run at sustained high RPM. Local diesel pullers actually run the same PennGrade racing oil that drag guys use because diesel oil can aerate and foam from the detergent package causing momentary lapses in lubrication or scoring/burning if it's injected into a tight tolerance at high pressure. Some people do run it year-round and it's fine, but something to consider is Rotella is what Subaru owners love, while their cars love to stack rod bearings. That's a statistic I'd rather not participate in.

That being said, diesel-grade oil is the closest consumer oil you can currently buy to what our cars would've used 25 years ago with the exception of the detergent package. For daily driving with occasional abuse I'd suggest mixing 2qts of high-detergent diesel oil with 2qts of low-detergent racing oil....if you never go above 3500rpms then the diesel oil alone will probably be fine.

Actually mine doesn't take deisal gas. It's actually just normal gasoline that I put in my Honda CRZ. But, my 420A 4CYL 16V recommends SAE 15W-30 but, I was recommended as a bandaid until the dude who is quoting me on a rebuild. To use 15W-40. That's what people use in thier 420A's & 4G63's is 15W-40. Hopefully pouring thar in won't damage my engine that much but, it will be a bandaid until I can get it fixed.

 

[Chewy4g63]

Diesel oil is not a good choice for any engine being run at sustained high RPM. Local diesel pullers actually run the same PennGrade racing oil that drag guys use because diesel oil can aerate and foam from the detergent package causing momentary lapses in lubrication or scoring/burning if it's injected into a tight tolerance at high pressure. Some people do run it year-round and it's fine, but something to consider is Rotella is what Subaru owners love, while their cars love to stack rod bearings. That's a statistic I'd rather not participate in.

That being said, diesel-grade oil is the closest consumer oil you can currently buy to what our cars would've used 25 years ago with the exception of the detergent package. For daily driving with occasional abuse I'd suggest mixing 2qts of high-detergent diesel oil with 2qts of low-detergent racing oil....if you never go above 3500rpms then the diesel oil alone will probably be fine.

I used to use 15-40 diesel oil in my old 1g gsx 4g63t to quiet the lifter tick and the turbo loved it.

 

[dsmmario]

Diesel oil is not a good choice for any engine being run at sustained high RPM. Local diesel pullers actually run the same PennGrade racing oil that drag guys use because diesel oil can aerate and foam from the detergent package causing momentary lapses in lubrication or scoring/burning if it's injected into a tight tolerance at high pressure. Some people do run it year-round and it's fine, but something to consider is Rotella is what Subaru owners love, while their cars love to stack rod bearings. That's a statistic I'd rather not participate in.

That being said, diesel-grade oil is the closest consumer oil you can currently buy to what our cars would've used 25 years ago with the exception of the detergent package. For daily driving with occasional abuse I'd suggest mixing 2qts of high-detergent diesel oil with 2qts of low-detergent racing oil....if you never go above 3500rpms then the diesel oil alone will probably be fine.

There is a Multi-Vehicle Rotella that’s SN certified if someone really wants to use “diesel oil”

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[JusMX141]

5W30 is too light, and if they tell you right in the description about the "lower levels of phosphorous" then I'm puzzled as to why it's any better than the other consumer-grade oils.

 

[RWD4G63]

Diesel oil is not a good choice for any engine being run at sustained high RPM. Local diesel pullers actually run the same PennGrade racing oil that drag guys use because diesel oil can aerate and foam from the detergent package causing momentary lapses in lubrication or scoring/burning if it's injected into a tight tolerance at high pressure. Some people do run it year-round and it's fine, but something to consider is Rotella is what Subaru owners love, while their cars love to stack rod bearings. That's a statistic I'd rather not participate in.

That being said, diesel-grade oil is the closest consumer oil you can currently buy to what our cars would've used 25 years ago with the exception of the detergent package. For daily driving with occasional abuse I'd suggest mixing 2qts of high-detergent diesel oil with 2qts of low-detergent racing oil....if you never go above 3500rpms then the diesel oil alone will probably be fine.

Yes, no diesel oil for high revving gas cars! While I very much appreciate someone else saying it besides me, you might be misunderstanding a few things.
1. It's not the detergent package that you should be afraid of. The detergents in high quality oil are all pretty close, and you do want to keep your engine clean, so these are necessary. In fact, high amounts are good, and anything with ester base stocks will do an especially good job of cleaning as it naturally dissolved varnish all on it's own.
2. You're talking about the anti-foam additives. There aren't a whole lot of these in low-revving diesel engines because they just don't need them, and this is a problem for high revving gasoline engines that do.
3. Diesel oil also focuses heavily on dispersants, as it needs to keep all that soot from settling in the bottom of the crankcase. Gasoline engines have some, but not nearly as much.
4. Rotella isn't really a 'high zinc' oil like everyone things it is. It's got 900-1100ppm in it depending on the formulation you get. That's nothing to get excited about. A high zinc oil has something between 1500-2000ppm ZDDP.

 

[motomattx]

Just put some Valvoline VR-1 20w-50 in it and be done.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

If you put 20w-50 in a 200k mile 420a, the noise will definitely calm down, but you'll have oil leaks left and right. The aged seals and gaskets likely won't support the excess oil pressure. But yes, your rod knock won't be as obnoxious. The 420a holds between 4.2-4.5 quarts. So if you buy a 5 quart jug you'll have enough left over to add as it leaks, assuming you don't produce a major leak.