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ECMlink Sad. Installed ECMLink and it runs like hell.

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Bigbeanbird

5+ Year Contributor
249
166
Jan 5, 2020
Mentone, California
Ok, I have a 97 GST that I bought in pieces, did my very best to put back together (which I did), and it ran ok as long as I didn’t ask it for much boost, like 5 or 6 psi. Got to reading about the ECMLink and was really excited about it, filled out the questionnaire and sent in the ECU to be chipped. Got the stuff in the mail, installed it being very careful as I extracted the Apexi SAFC first. New timing belt, water pump, belts and left off that stupid AC thingy. Started the car after hours of making sure things were physically hooked up and it ran like hell, would not idle, choked when throttle was touched. I did install 800 cc injectors and changed the fuel trim to match, but then in ran even worse!!

One of the wise men on this site said he’d never seen a setup like this and was it used when I bought it. No no, it all came from ECU. At a loss here, please help me get this monster running, thanks in advance for any help from the brains out there. I’m an old guy so computers are kinda strange to me, but I’m trying..!!! Have logs to see in if’n you want
 
It would set it to stock injectors and put the stock injectors back in.
I also assume you changed the firing order? If not look at the ecmlink getting started pages.
LOL, well the old injectors are in a landfill I’m sure and don’t you just change global settings for bigger injectors??

I did not change the firing order because instructions said I didn’t have to.. I kinda saw different answers about the need to do so, but in my defense I did change firing order and checked the CS box, and man was I surprised how crappy it sounded.. cranked it twice and that was all I needed to switch it all back to where it was..
 
You're using a 2ga EPROM ECU correct? Read this.
Thanks pauleyman, I read it again and this is what made me go the other way..

When installing a '97 ECU that has been converted to EPROM on a car with a 1g or 2gb cam angle sensor, you would not need check the box to invert the CAS and swap plug wires, as the signals should be the same as the ECU is expecting to see.

I do have a 97 ECU that was converted into an EPROM, (via ECMLink I think) and it has 2g CAS. That’s telling me I do not need to swap wires or check the box, right?
 
Was the car already running well before installing ECMLink? If not, most likely ECMLink is not the direct cause. Installing ECMLink just made the situation worse I guess. This is important that you make the car running properly before making more changes.

I do not need to swap wires or check the box, right..?
If it would require swapping the wire ordering, the engine should not have fired up. So if the engine fires up, then you don't probably need it.
 
Was the car already running well before installing ECMLink? If not, most likely ECMLink is not the direct cause. Installing ECMLink just made the situation worse I guess. This is important that you make the car running properly before making more changes.


If it would require swapping the wire ordering, the engine should not have fired up. So if the engine fires up, then you don't probably need it.
well, like i said, i got the car in pieces {turbo piping and water lines in the front of the block.}. the story on it was that he got to drinking at a ball game added water and drove off without putting the cap back on and it boiled over, like grammas pressure cooker, and he took it apart to fix it but never went through with it.. got so hot it curled the secondary fan blades.. so, im gettin old here and i just need a quick little car to play with before i meet my maker and this popped up.. so, i put it back together and yes, it ran pretty good until i asked it for more than 2 or 3 pounds of boost, then it feels like fuel cut.. this turbo stuff all new to me, last time i dealt with a turbo it was on his 64 corvair in 74..
but yes, yes it worked.. then i tore it down did the timing belt and water pump since i was in there.. loaded the Link when it was down for injectors {DW 800 cc} and belt but i dont think it affected the software loading to the ECU, it shouldnt have..
i did do the wire swap and cranked it twice and knew right away it was wrong.. reversed the swap and it did fire up, kinda.. no idle ,way to rich.. ill post a capture but its ugly.. i went into the fuel settings and calculated fuel feed for 450 cc injectors and it fired up and idled but not right.. sheesh.. thanks fellas.. or ladies as the case may be..!!!
Was the car already running well before installing ECMLink? If not, most likely ECMLink is not the direct cause. Installing ECMLink just made the situation worse I guess. This is important that you make the car running properly before making more changes.


If it would require swapping the wire ordering, the engine should not have fired up. So if the engine fires up, then you don't probably need it.

It still needs to be tuned....
yes it does and it will be

hope this works..LOL
 

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It did work. Next time, before you capture a log, hit F10. Capture every value.

it ran pretty good until i asked it for more than 2 or 3 pounds of boost, then it feels like fuel cut
Boost leak. Go through every clamp and coupler between the turbo to the intercooler to the throttle body. Definitely do a proper boost leak test, but I suspect there's going to a very obvious one right now as you sit.
 
You're sure it was a 97 ecu? Just covering all bases here.
ya know, i cant be 100 percent positive that is was in fact a 97 ECU but that is the year of the car.. serial numbers might help in the quest i guess..mwas there something with a 97 ECU as to alienate it for some reason..?? it was not a stock vehicle by any means so maybe you have some thing there Pauleyman.. another thing for my pea brain to process

It did work. Next time, before you capture a log, hit F10. Capture every value.


Boost leak. Go through every clamp and coupler between the turbo to the intercooler to the throttle body. Definitely do a proper boost leak test, but I suspect there's going to a very obvious one right now as you sit.
f10 to capture all, sweet,,, where might you think is an in my face kinda leak might be, as i sit here scatching my head.... boost test yes, real soon.. had a tester cap made with schrader valve and gauge mounted to it but my lovely little pain in the ass black lab decided to dash in the garage behind me and destroy it in the front yard .. she likes to chew on PVC...
ive gone over all the new clamps I've put on and they all seem pretty secure.. what would be a good piping system for this car..?? i need to spend some money man..!!! 😂
 
ya know, i cant be 100 percent positive that is was in fact a 97 ECU but that is the year of the car.. serial numbers might help in the quest i guess..mwas there something with a 97 ECU as to alienate it for some reason..?? it was not a stock vehicle by any means so maybe you have some thing there Pauleyman.. another thing for my pea brain to process
What I was getting at is you're sure this was a conversion ecu and not a 95 ecu with a chip. Sounds like you are sure.
 
You still have all those setting I asked you to change back in https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/n...elp-with-ecmlink-setup.547518/#post-153926698

Which 800 cc injectors did you get because the Global Deadtime looks way off.

How accurate is your profile for this car now?
This doesn't look like a brand new ECMLink configuration. Is it used?
After you changed the injectors did you pressure test the intake? (Boost Leak Test)

There are several things I'd change and then add logging of Battery Voltage, Baro, ISCPosition and get another startup log.

Turn off (uncheck the box)
Simulate idle switch from TPS on RPM/TPS tab.
Disable MAF Compensation w/SD operation on MAF Comp tab.
Enable MAF Clamp on the MAF Clamp tab.
Enable idle air clamp on Idle Air tab.
Enable boost control on Boost (WGS) tab.
Disable airflow smoothing w/SD operation on Misc tab.
Automatic Transmission on DTCs tab.
Lock intake temperature and barometric pressure on the ECU Inputs tab.

Turn on (check the box)
Use non-95/96 style cam angle sensor on Misc tab.

Select Stock IM for Display Template on MAF Comp tab.
Select Undefined for Manifold Pressure (MAP) on the ECU Inputs tab.

What I was getting at is you're sure this was a conversion ecu and not a 95 ecu with a chip. Sounds like you are sure.

Here's what the two look like.

95 EPROM

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97 Converted EPROM https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/nonepromprocess2g

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You have the intake temperature and barometric pressure code locked. The ecu needs to see these signals if using a stock MAF. 2nd your dead time is off. I don't get too many cars with that size injector anymore but when i do i start at 45 global and 390 deadtime then fine tune from there. Fill out your profile with current mods.
 
If you do have a converted '97 ECU and you're using the '97 cam angle sensor you don't have to activate (check) the non-95/96 style cam angle sensor option that I recommended above according to ECMTuning.


That also implies but doesn't state that you don't need to swap plug wires either.

This one clarifies the subject more.

 
Thanks guys, great info..!! Finna do my best to sort things out today as long as it’s not too hot here.. been over a hundred degrees here in so cal for weeks straight.. once again, thanks for wasting your time on me, once this car is up and running I’m gonna do flips of joy.. can’t friggen wait.. bless you fellas
 
If you do have a converted '97 ECU and you're using the '97 cam angle sensor you don't have to activate (check) the non-95/96 style cam angle sensor option that I recommended above according to ECMTuning.


That also implies but doesn't state that you don't need to swap plug wires either.

This one clarifies the subject more.

I think I’m good Steve, prolly take out ECU just to be sure anyhow.. it’s not going anywhere soon

But ya know what, I did send it in for an EPROM conversion and am fairly sure the numbers matched.. plus I’m not as agile as I used to be so I think I’ll skip that step for now😂😂, you know

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