2G Rusted axle nut

[Ronald Wolf]

So my friend gave me his old 96 Eagle Talon Tsi. I just needed to fix it up. Well I'm on my last thing to make it drive able. I need to replace the rear CV axles but I can't get the axle nut off. Its really rusted. I only have like a 17in breaker bar and I've tried PB Blaster but it won't budge. Any suggestions? The CV axles are trash anyway so if theres another way I can get it off from like the other side than just let me know.

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The picture is before the pb plaster and yes I know its rusty as hell

 

[c2ypt1c]

Impact wrench will make quick work of that thing. After working on my dsm for so long without one, I can't tell you how much I appreciate it now. You won't regret buying one.

 

[RamenPride]

Impact wrench will make quick work of that thing. After working on my dsm for so long without one, I can't tell you how much I appreciate it now. You won't regret buying one.

Yeah, I remember the days of cheater pipes, breaking tools, frustration, and sore muscles before getting an impact. I have a corded Kobalt and cordless Craftsman both rated around 350 and 300ft/lbs respectively, but thinking about picking this up for those really stubborn nuts and bolts:

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-extreme-torque-impact-wrench-64120.html

Kind of skeptical about the 1050ft/lbs of torque rating, but all the reviews I've seen have been positive. Right now it's only $99 with coupon in the latest flyer. My first impact was the cheapest Chicago Electric version rated at like 240ft/lbs, but there were several fasteners that it wouldn't remove or even loosen (ie crank bolts, axle nuts, suspension bolts).

 

[luv2rallye]

That 1050 ft/lbs is the bolt breakaway torque (which just means initial jerk, not sustainable). If you look at the specs (on the right) you'll see the maximum torque is 300 ft/lbs.