The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Running rich on dyno

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

eclipse13

20+ Year Contributor
925
2
Jan 5, 2003
wilmington, North Carolina
After looking at the a/f on the dyno printout, I am running rich. Is there any way to fix this without an SAFC?
 
We need more info on your setup.

What type of fuel pressure regulator/injectors are you running?

Your signature says NT. Our cars run rich from the factory so if your setup is completely stock a SAFC is about the only thing that you could use. Well, that or megasquirt.
 
...as far as your profile etc, says you're n/a. So you would still be basically all stock fuel setup correct? As stated, let us know exactly what's going on, but what from I gather you're wanting to change that our cars run rich from the factory.
 
I've got I/H/E and a UDP. I'm trying to find the dyno sheet to let you guys know the exact numbers.
 
Yeah if those are the only mods that you have accomplished, SAFC is the easiest, cheapest way to go. It wont make a super huge difference, there is only so much power our engine NA can put out, but it will help.
 
Supposing you could pick up 5whp with the SAFC, is it worth paying $400 for that 5whp, given what you put down? Just figured I would throw that out there.
 
Did anyone read the first post? I said I wanted to fix the running rich problem without buying an SAFC. I was asking if this was possible.
 
eclipse13 said:
After looking at the a/f on the dyno printout, I am running rich. Is there any way to fix this without an SAFC?

Not really. You'd either need to buy a more complete fuel management system (which, obviously, would cost more than a S-AFC), or learn the ins and outs of ECU fuel trim calculations and start modifying the MAP sensor readings (this means creating a ghetto-rigged S-AFC; "ghetto-rigged" should imply poor results).
 
thus...yes we read your first post :rolleyes:


you asked for advice and we gave it to ya, there really isn't much you can do about it bro...and seriously, how much few minute horsie powers are you tryin to squeeze out?
 
XMasta19 said:
thus...yes we read your first post :rolleyes:


you asked for advice and we gave it to ya, there really isn't much you can do about it bro...and seriously, how much few minute horsie powers are you tryin to squeeze out?

ok, my first post says nothing about horsepower, I am running rich and I don't want to be. I didn't say, "how much HP can i get from a SAFC?"
 
eclipse13 said:
ok, my first post says nothing about horsepower, I am running rich and I don't want to be. I didn't say, "how much HP can i get from a SAFC?"
From my experiences, our cars run rich from the factory. You have been running rich this whole time without knowing it and you haven't had any problems. Your only mistake was reading the dyno afr and finding this out.
 
Yeah man, don't waste your money trying to lean out the stock fuel trims.

I installed my SAFC right before I went turbo'd and dyno'd it and tried to increast the power gains with pretty much the same NT mods you had if not more.

I went from 120.00whp to 121.5whp after an hour.

If you were driving a honda you might be able to advance the timing a little bit with the stock distributor, but we dont' have that option.
 
Your car is running fine. Without aftermarket tuning instruments installed, there is no way for you to alter fuel or ignition at all. It's all controlled by the computer, which is programmed by the factory.

Now, I have heard that there are variances between fuel maps loaded into the ECUs depending on where, in the country, the car was sent after assembly, but those differences are extremely slight and probably have something to do with if the car was going to be sold farther north or south, as winter warm-up requirements vary, depending on where you're located.

I want to say I read, somewhere, that cars tuned on a warm day will tend to run rich on cold days, if the settings are not adjusted, as hot air is less dense (oxygen rich) than colder air. If your car was originally sold up in the far northern regions of the country (or even Canada), it could be that you have the suspect cold weather values in the fuel trim bins on the stock ECU.

Anyway, that's all I've got for you. There is nothing you can do to alter your AFR without aftermarket support and even aftermarket support isn't going to really benefit you, given your mods. Nothing wrong with wanting to know what's up, though.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top