Running Incredibly Rich and Smells

[SALTYPILLOW]

Okay so my car has gone through a lot of fixing and is on the road even after the broken spark plug of 2014 incident... But i easy-outted the hell outta that spark plug and its on the road. My question here is, Whenever the windows are down and I am driving, I smell an incredible amount of gas and whenever coming down from high rpms it crackles and backfires shooting flames (Sounds ungodly awesome...) I am 100% certain I am running incredibly rich. I have an upstream o2 sensor and a plug where the downstream would go, so no exhaust leaks. It has a full stainless steel exhaust system with test pipe, a cold air intake, and new IAC motor and the other sensor on the TB (forgot what its called.. ) When first starting whether cold or hot, you have to give it gas to keep it running, and usually a rev up to 4,000 rpms will get it to idle and from there it wont have troubles idling. I am just wondering what could be causing the car to run rich if it has all new sensors and such. Also I put a friend's silencer in my exhaust and tightened it up to see what is actually coming out of my exhaust. I started the car, had in running for about 10 seconds and turned it off. I take out the silencer and the thing is completely black. It went in chrome... It has a wet mixture that looks to be oil and gas mixed. Im not 100% sure, but it may new a head gasket, as I had the oil light flicker on while pulling into my driveway (immediately shut it off) and i bought oil and it was below the minimum line but not empty. So it has an oil leak somewhere, and I know it needs a valve cover gasket. Also once in a while it smells like burning oil but no blue smoke or any signs of burning oil... It only smells like burning oil briefly if I floor it. Anyone have any ideas on what I can do to get it to run less rich or not rich at all? Thanks!

 

[1G Eclipse94928]

Okay so my car has gone through a lot of fixing and is on the road even after the broken spark plug of 2014 incident... But i easy-outted the hell outta that spark plug and its on the road. My question here is, Whenever the windows are down and I am driving, I smell an incredible amount of gas and whenever coming down from high rpms it crackles and backfires shooting flames (Sounds ungodly awesome...) I am 100% certain I am running incredibly rich. I have an upstream o2 sensor and a plug where the downstream would go, so no exhaust leaks. It has a full stainless steel exhaust system with test pipe, a cold air intake, and new IAC motor and the other sensor on the TB (forgot what its called.. ) When first starting whether cold or hot, you have to give it gas to keep it running, and usually a rev up to 4,000 rpms will get it to idle and from there it wont have troubles idling. I am just wondering what could be causing the car to run rich if it has all new sensors and such. Also I put a friend's silencer in my exhaust and tightened it up to see what is actually coming out of my exhaust. I started the car, had in running for about 10 seconds and turned it off. I take out the silencer and the thing is completely black. It went in chrome... It has a wet mixture that looks to be oil and gas mixed. Im not 100% sure, but it may new a head gasket, as I had the oil light flicker on while pulling into my driveway (immediately shut it off) and i bought oil and it was below the minimum line but not empty. So it has an oil leak somewhere, and I know it needs a valve cover gasket. Also once in a while it smells like burning oil but no blue smoke or any signs of burning oil... It only smells like burning oil briefly if I floor it. Anyone have any ideas on what I can do to get it to run less rich or not rich at all? Thanks!

boost leak test.

 

[McDizle]

Definitely sounds like more than one thing causing your symptoms. I'd start with the valve cover gasket first, than find your oil leak and that go from there. Try a boost leak test for starters. IMO it's easier to diagnose things if you fix all the other issues you already know of

Edit: Just saw this

boost leak test.

 

[Supra Mario]

Do you have a check engine light? I've been running rich for an eternity and still am. Fixed it some by replacing sensor, but I have CEL code P0125 and it's stuck in Open Loop. And how good is your O2 sensor?

 

[DSMReviver]

Boost leak won't help him he is non turbo

 

[SALTYPILLOW]

First things first, I thought I mentioned it, but I have a 1998 Eclipse GS (N/T) so boost leak test is out of the question as I don't have any boost to leak or test... Second, I do have a CEL but I cannot check it as my OBDII reader (or anyone elses) will not connect to the ECU. If I plug it in, nothing happens. Its like it isn't even there. And it was working before but all of a sudden about a month ago im not getting any connection to read the stored codes in the ECU. I'm thinking it's a wiring issue so when it gets warmer I might rip the dash apart to trace the wire and see if there are any issues. My mechanic I go to only when I don't have the tools to do a job, said my ECU is fried based on the sole reason that he couldn't connect to it either. Now that I think about it, the issues with the ECU port not working started when I picked it up from the mechanic... But I know its throwing some sort of code, I just can't read it to find out what code it is. By the way, I do have an ECU from my other wrecked car that is still in perfect condition. Its from a 1999 Eclipse GS. (Same car, one model year newer) If needed, would I be able to swap over the ECU? Or would it not work?

 

[DSMReviver]

It's more than likely you are leaking somewhere in the throttle body letting air pass by. Check your Biss screw, or in this case, since you are non turbo check out your uncapped vacuum lines. Your problem lies in either throttle body or intake manifold. Check your gasket and make sure they are there.

The car is doing that because it's seeing more air from the O2 so it tries to add more fuel to stay within that air fuel ratio sweet spot. Which make it rev up even your throttle body is fully close. Air is sneaking it's way pass the throttle body.

 

[SALTYPILLOW]

The throttle body is practically brand new. I took it out when I was replacing the IAC and sensors, I cleaned it out because it was completely covered in carbon. I cleaned it all off, made it shine like new, put a new gasket on it, gasket sealed it, checked it for any blemishes, and re installed it with new sensors. As for vacuum lines, ill have to double check those but I did some replacing on line that connects to the throttle body, and I also put in a new EGR and corresponding line, as the spaghetti noodle stock line snapped in half...

So how would I go about getting the car to run less rich? If air is getting past the throttle body, I have no clue how because as I said, I replaced all the vacuum lines going to the throttle body...

 

[Supra Mario]

Is the throttle position sensor the other sensor on the TB you were talking about? Is that new too and was it adjusted when put on or not. A mis adjusted one could mess with fuel consumption. I'd also check for leaks like he said. Do you feel like you lost any power or no? I

 

[SALTYPILLOW]

Yes that is the other sensor, and it is new. I bought it, the instructions said not to adjust, so I didnt (nor would I know where to adjust it to) and I installed it out of the box as is. Also oddly enough I feel like I have more power after doing all the stuff I did to it. Its weird but it feels like I have MiVEC or something. Once i reach 4,000 rpms it starts flying though rpms... I don't know whats causing that but it feels like im driving my friend's honda civic with vTEC...

No thats not a joke, Im serious... It really feels like I have the first 420a eclipse with MiVEC...

 

[DSMReviver]

Yes that is the other sensor, and it is new. I bought it, the instructions said not to adjust, so I didnt (nor would I know where to adjust it to) and I installed it out of the box as is. Also oddly enough I feel like I have more power after doing all the stuff I did to it. Its weird but it feels like I have MiVEC or something. Once i reach 4,000 rpms it starts flying though rpms... I don't know whats causing that but it feels like im driving my friend's honda civic with vTEC...

No thats not a joke, Im serious... It really feels like I have the first 420a eclipse with MiVEC...

Double and triple check everything and make sure everything is tight. After that you can move and diagnosis the sensors. It seems like your IAC may not be working properly. It is one of the ways air can get pass the throttle body.

I had my car do the same thing when my IAC was bad. It wants to rev it self to the moon every time you start it and stays there.

 

[SALTYPILLOW]

You see, mine is just the opposite. Before I replaced the IAC, it would not idle at all unless you held the gas for a long time then it would finally idle but die every time you come to a stop. However after replacing the IAC, it wont idle at first, unless you rev it, then it will idle fine for the entire time your driving. But after getting through getting it to idle (takes tops of 15 seconds) it idles fine the rest of the time. As for the "vTEC" it doesn't stay there. If I am driving, and I hit about 4500rpms, it is like I floored it, but I haven't given it any more gas than I was originally. Now if I release the gas, it will come back down in rpms just fine without any sticking and I get backfiring (crackles, some loud pops, and pops with flames but usually its mostly crackling with maybe 1 or 2 loud backfire pops with flames.)

 

[DSMReviver]

From what you are saying it sounded like you hit an open lope in the ecu. The ecu begin estimating the fuel air delivery and start dumping fuel(in your case rich mixture). That's why you are seeing flames when you let off(unburn gas being burn). Never mind that, that part has to do with tuning and I'm assuming you don't have any tuning software.

Another area to check is your exhaust, if you have a leak in the exhaust, the O2 will see more air and you will run richer.

Back to idling problem. Have you attempt to adjust the Biss screw?

 

[SALTYPILLOW]

I don't have tuning software but my friend does. So I might be able to get something going there as far as that goes. Ive gotta check out the wiring issues to see if I can regain access to the codes stored in the ECU, as far as the BISS... Well to be honest I don't see any turn able screw on the throttle body... I'm taking a guess its the plug thing that holds the throttle from going too far, but there is no way I can "adjust" it as its flat on the other side... Or do I need to cut a groove into that flat area to make something to grab onto with a flat head screwdriver?

As far as the exhaust, Everything is tight. However where the headers connect to the downpipe, it is crooked, as one of the screws apparently fell out. Also my headers came with a 2nd o2 sensor hole with threads on the outside. I plugged up that hole the best I could... Not sure what that 2nd hole is for, but there was no bolt to cover that hole included with the headers. I'm thinking that hole maybe for a Exhaust Temp Gauge to hook up to?

 

[Supra Mario]

That hole is probably for something aftermarket if they are aftermarket headers. If it's 1/8 size then yes it's for EGT sensor. It would be of best interest to fix your ECU as soon as you get time. Your life would be a hella lot easier if you could read the code.

Seafoam is an excellent way to check for exhaust leaks. I don't know the condition of your motor as cleaning old motors can remove carbon that is actually holding stuff together. But seafoam is good to find leaks.

 

[SALTYPILLOW]

I have a spare ECU on my other car. It is a 1999 Eclipse GS. Will the difference in one model year make a difference? Like if needed, can I swap the ECU or will it not work on my 1998 because it is from a 1999?

 

[DSMReviver]

The hole is for your either your front or rear O2(I hope you had the front one in). If is not plug with a proper size bolt, this could explain why you are running rich at idel. Far as the ecu goes, long as the motor you got the ecu from is 420a you are good to go

 

[SALTYPILLOW]

I have a front (upstream) o2 sensor in. What I am saying is there is a second hole in addition to the o2 sensor hole on my aftermarket stainless steel headers. The ECU is from a 420a so I can use it then. Thanks. When this damn snow clears out ill go and swap the ECU, if I can connect to it after that, then it was the ECU and I can read the codes to see if I can find out what else is wrong with the car. If that doesn't fix it, its time to start tracing wires...