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overboosting and running rich

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cm1024

Probationary Member
19
0
Mar 18, 2012
Augusta, Georgia
i recently put a newer head on my 6bolt 4g63t, had a few hiccups with getting it straight due to the timing being off slightly. got that straightened out, and test drove it.

i noticed it overboosts like crazy if i stay in the throttle 20+psi and fuel cuts :notgood:. its also running very rich according to my a/f ratio guage and also can tell since its shooting 2 foot flames out the tail pipe. looks cool :hellyeah:, but i can literally watch the fuel guage drop as im driving, plus i dont wanna blow up...

as far as the boosting goes, i dont hear any vacuum leaks, i did have my hallman mbc hooked up but it wasnt helping so i ran a line from the charge pipe to the wastegate actuator and it still isnt helping. i have a big 16g on it by the way.
:banghead:
any ideas would be appreciated guys
 
Hook an air compressor up to the wastegate line, give it a short burst of air (at 10psi if have a regulator), and see if the arm moves. If not, it's a bad actuator.
 
that'd be crazy if its the actuator, the 16g i got is only about a month old itself. and i havent been running the car but lately since i replaced the head.

but would that cause it to run as rich as it is?

i have noticed there's a nut on the actuator arm, does that mean i can adjust it?
 
First off,make absolutely sure you don't have any holes in the vacuum line you are running to the waste gate.Even a small pin hole will make it over boost.If you find no hole try doing what wes_393 said with a compressor.After that post back and let us know what you have found out.


Just out of curiosity.Is your mod list up to date.
 
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Sounds.like an ebay 16g. This is a common problem the actuator sticks you have to blast ot with compressed air like stated above to get it to unstick.
 
So what's a good method to hook a compressor up to my actuator? I don't wanna try it and not see any results (good or bad)

Would my overboosting problem cause it to run rich though? I think you guys are right about it sticking though because it did regulate boost pressure at about 8-10psi. But I didn't drive it long enough to see if it was running rich due to the head being warped and having a huge exhaust leak. Replaced it and this is what I got going now.
 
Does the boost continue to rise with rpm? If so, I would say boost creep due to an undersized W/G evacuation passage. There are many solutions on the site if you search "boost creep" and/or "peepers mod". Hope this helps.
 
that does sound more like the problem and there is no cat with 3" exhaust. car was like that when i bought it. i put the 16g on it though, but it did it with the 14b also. the 14b needed to be rebuilt bad though so i upgraded. i looked up the creeping issue though, and somebody mentions replacing the head on the MHI actuator with a Garrett head because it allows 3x the travel. is there a certain Garrett actuator that anybody uses?

or does anybody recommend another solution? i just rather not snatch that whole exhaust off, plus its very nice

actually my 16g has a nut on the actuator like its adjustable, is there anyway to adjust it? if so, would that benefit me or solve my problem?
 
Have you tried to run the hose directly from the nipple on the j pipe to the wastegate to rule out the boost control solenoid?
 
been done that. tried with my mbc turned all the way out so it'd run stock psi, tried the OEM one, and now its on the j pipe nipple right at the compressor housing to the wastgate. and still having the same problem. i'm pretty sure its trouble with the actuator now that i read that boost creep thread and the fact i have a 3" exhaust with no cat from the o2 housing to the back

still not sure bout the running rich part though. my brother in law was thinking if we wired in my safcII and do the 2g mas with the hard pipe intake i got, we might be able to tune it out maybe?
 
Boost spike, and boost creep are two different things, boost creep is when you have your mbc set to say , 15 psi. when spooling up, it will hit 15 psi and stay for a second or so, then it will just start rising up uncontrollably

Boost spike is when spooling it shoots to some crazy number ( sometimes not as drastic ) then settle back down to your setting

Then there is just faulty parts, like a stuck actuator, would be the same thing as not connecting boost to the wastegate at all. just take a blowgun , or whatever you can and blow air into wastetgate vacuum/boost line connecting to the actuator if you see it move relatively easy then its probably something else, if it hesitates then moves blow air in it a few more times to try to get it to open and close freely if it doesnt move at all, then i would probably tap it with a hammer while pressurizing it ( gently, not like thor would ) and obviously if all else fails you would just have to get a new one.

the evo 3 16g used to come with two different flapper options, i chose the smaller, cheaper one, sure it still offers that. but anything lower then 18-20 psi set on the mbc , would not stay there it would creep up 21+ish But it stops at whatever boost for a second or two then starts rising again as the rpm's increase.
 
i got boost creep from what your explaining, it'll hold steady at about 12-13psi for a little bit but if i stay in the throttle it keeps building psi til it fuel cuts or i back out of the throttle. i get out of the throttle before it gets over 20psi so i dont make matters worse

You need to port the wastegate hole on your ebay 16g. Its tiny as hell. Trust me i owned one.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/436649-boost-creep-ebay-wastegate.html

in this thread, idk if the pic just makes it look like the flapper is bigger in the 2nd pic. but with porting it that much, does the flapper need to be bigger?
 
i got boost creep from what your explaining, it'll hold steady at about 12-13psi for a little bit but if i stay in the throttle it keeps building psi til it fuel cuts or i back out of the throttle. i get out of the throttle before it gets over 20psi so i dont make matters worse



in this thread, idk if the pic just makes it look like the flapper is bigger in the 2nd pic. but with porting it that much, does the flapper need to be bigger?

No, just open the hole to the size just under the flapper size to still allow the flapper to properly seal. Since the wastegate hole is larger now more gas can bypass the turbine and help keep boost in check where it should. I am positive this is your problem. 16g turbos are always known to creep with a free flowing exhaust.
 
well that gives me an excuse to go get me a dremel today :sneaky:. i'll try it out and update when i'm done, waitin on my bro to show up since he offered to lend a hand if i helped him primer his civic. sounds fair enough to me

ported it a good bit with the dremel 3000 i got earlier, works awesome by the way i dont know why i havent bought one until now. trying to figure out the whole pic uploading part on here, but i think its good. we'll see when i slap it back together tomorrow. hopefully that will solve that problem so i can figure out the rich part...
 
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finally got to put the turbo back on after all the rain we've had lately. and i've got boost control now, it pegged out at 7-8psi with the wastegate ran to the charge pipe. thanks 007jimmy, i ported it just like in the thread and extended my actuator arm also so it holds steady now. i'm gonna hook my mbc back up though and probably run at about 12psi after all is said and done.

now one problem to the next, its still running extremely rich. i burned 1/4 of a tank driving no more than 10 miles on the test drive after putting the turbo back on. i've got no leaks, no excessive smoking, and if i run it too long it starts shootin flames out the back. any ideas?
 
the fuel pump is a bosch oem replacement, the old one was junk. and its still got the stock 450cc injectors. i did seafoam it but thats about it

i havent tuned anything yet, but i plan on just using this safcII i got for free
 
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