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Bad sputtering, Wont stay running and smells rich

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iguanahotsauce

10+ Year Contributor
238
0
Dec 13, 2010
Vancouver, Washington
Here is a video of what is happening,

View My Video

It sputters really badly and wont stay running unless I pump the gas pedal. It also smells like it's running pretty rich. I did a boost leak test from the throttle body the other day and there is a major leak somewhere. It wont hold pressure at all and I can hear a loud rushing of air coming from somewhere around the exhaust manifold/ turbo area but I can't fins where the air is coming from. I sprayed it all down with soapy water and couldn't find anything so I'm a little stumped. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.
 
Fix the boost leak. My coupler came off my upic piping while driving and it wouldn't idle at all. Had to pop the clutch while rolling to get into a parking lot and fix. The engine sounds nasty, and not in a good way. My first step is to get the leak fixed asap, then go from there. Maybe post a video from the engine while its running if you can get some help.
 
Fix the boost leak. My coupler came off my upic piping while driving and it wouldn't idle at all. Had to pop the clutch while rolling to get into a parking lot and fix. The engine sounds nasty, and not in a good way. My first step is to get the leak fixed asap, then go from there. Maybe post a video from the engine while its running if you can get some help.

Do you have any ideas where it could be coming from? I cant seem to find where the leak is coming from even though it's huge. It kind of sounds like all the air is rushing into the engine. Also air is coming out of the small hose that comes from the intake manifold and connects to the BOV, is air supposed to come out of there when I pressurize from the throttle body?
 
Do the test from the turbo inlet

This. Don't test from the throttle body, that won't tell you if your intake piping is leaking. And the huge rush your hearing is likely just air making it through the cylinders and into the exhaust. Attach the tester to the turbo inlet, pressurize the intake to 5psi above your target boost pressure, and spray soapy water all over the engine bay.
 
This. Don't test from the throttle body, that won't tell you if your intake piping is leaking. And the huge rush your hearing is likely just air making it through the cylinders and into the exhaust. Attach the tester to the turbo inlet, pressurize the intake to 5psi above your target boost pressure, and spray soapy water all over the engine bay.

I posted a response saying this exact thing but deleted it. Seems he was stuck on doing it through the throttle body. The correct way is to pressurize from the turbo inlet. But hey what do I know I don't even have 20 post
 
This. Don't test from the throttle body, that won't tell you if your intake piping is leaking. And the huge rush your hearing is likely just air making it through the cylinders and into the exhaust. Attach the tester to the turbo inlet, pressurize the intake to 5psi above your target boost pressure, and spray soapy water all over the engine bay.

Alright I will do the test from the turbo inlet tomorrow
 
Throttle body helps find air leaks in the engine, but off the turbo inlet helps you find intercooler pipe or bov leaks that are more common. Where you able to check the injectors at all and swap out that old gas? Also see if you can check the timing.
 
Throttle body helps find air leaks in the engine, but off the turbo inlet helps you find intercooler pipe or bov leaks that are more common. Where you able to check the injectors at all and swap out that old gas? Also see if you can check the timing.

Not sure where you come up with that from. If it only shows bov and intercooler leaks then how have I found injector oring leaks by doing it from the turbo?

OP do it however you want we are just letting you know the way it should be done
 
Im having the same problem with my 1g but it sounds like the turbo is breaking up when i give it gas.? Any suggestions

Guessing you're stock from profile. Start by looking for flakes of metal in oil. Personally, I'd do a boost leak test and see if its that. I see you're new here, but give us a little more to go off of. Maybe post a video like the op did. That would help a lot for us that can't see.

What do you mean it sounds like the turbo is breaking up? Is it not building boost? The more info, the better the help.
 
Not sure where you come up with that from. If it only shows bov and intercooler leaks then how have I found injector oring leaks by doing it from the turbo?

OP do it however you want we are just letting you know the way it should be done

Of course it will show all leaks if do test from the turbo inlet. But op mentioned a throttle body boost leak test and I was kinda defining the difference between the two.
 
I just finished doing the test from the turbo inlet. I'm getting the same thing I did before, all the air sounds like it is going from the turbo into the engine. I remember from a while ago seeing a post talking about the engine needs to be rotated to a certain position so the air doesn't go into the engine, is this correct? Also does the car need to be warmed up to do a correct blt?
 
You're talking about tdc. For a boost leak, I have never heard of this. TDC reffers to placing crank in correct possition for timing. I might be wrong on this. Matter fact, I think that I'm off... but top dead center should not be needed for a blt

Edit- In a reciprocating engine, top dead centre of piston #1 is the datum point from which ignition system measurements are made and the firing order is determined. via wikipedia
 
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Yeah I saw a picture a while back about having to be 30 degrees past tdc to keep everything sealed. So where could this huge leak be? I can't feel any air when I hook up the system to an air compressor but it wont hold any air at all, it is all leaking somewherw
 
Im having same issue also. im installing a new fmic and gettin a pro tune to see if it fixes mine...
 
Edit - In a reciprocating engine, top dead centre of piston #1 is the datum point from which ignition system measurements are made and the firing order is determined.

You said you have used sopa and water, and still can't find this leak... If its causing you to stall, then it is going to be a pretty large leak somewhere. Should be pretty noticeable. Are all your vacuum lines attached properly?

CAS, improperly vented bov, vac leak. These might need to be checked as well. Why not go ahead and do a compression test while you're at it. I know its a long shot, but you said it sounds like air is rushing into the engine, but that is typical. But nice to get done since winter is winding down. Well, in the south at least.

As far as having pistons at certain position, not a clue. Do you know if you are throwing any codes? Possibly pick up an elm 327 scan tool and the android app to gowith it. I think its onlly like 20 bucks and app is free. Not 100, but I'll look after this

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00/?tag=citofgamonlco-20[/ame]

I don't feel like reading all this, but info is in here on bt elm
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/457509-2-questions-andorid-app-torque-clutch-pedal.html

Im having same issue also. im installing a new fmic and gettin a pro tune to see if it fixes mine...

Have you installed it already or are getting ready to? Finish and do a blt. Youtube has some great examples. Post a video if you can. More for us to go off of
 
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There is a pretty large leak somewhere but I can't seem to find it. I have checked the CAS and the bov is being recirculated. I did a compression test a while back when this started and the results were a little low but not too much, I don't remember the exact numbers. There was quite a bit of engine work done before I got the car because the timing belt snapped. It ran perfectly for about six months so I know it doesn't have anything to do with the engine work being done improperly. All the vacuum lines are attached in the correct places. It's not throwing any codes and I do have a logger attached to it. I am completely stumped. I pulled off the bumper and front fenders today to do some cosmetic work because just like all the other dsms I have oxidizing paint. I also pulled off my intercooler and I'm going to clean it and check for leaks. If anyone has some more ideas of what it could be let me know and I will give it a shot. Also that scan tool is for OBD2 and I have a 1g

Edit - In a reciprocating engine, top dead centre of piston #1 is the datum point from which ignition system measurements are made and the firing order is determined.

You said you have used sopa and water, and still can't find this leak... If its causing you to stall, then it is going to be a pretty large leak somewhere. Should be pretty noticeable. Are all your vacuum lines attached properly?

CAS, improperly vented bov, vac leak. These might need to be checked as well. Why not go ahead and do a compression test while you're at it. I know its a long shot, but you said it sounds like air is rushing into the engine, but that is typical. But nice to get done since winter is winding down. Well, in the south at least.

As far as having pistons at certain position, not a clue. Do you know if you are throwing any codes? Possibly pick up an elm 327 scan tool and the android app to gowith it. I think its onlly like 20 bucks and app is free. Not 100, but I'll look after this

BAFX Products (TM) - ELM 327 Bluetooth OBD2 scan tool - For check engine light and other diagnostics - Android compatible : Amazon.com : Automotive

I don't feel like reading all this, but info is in here on bt elm
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/457509-2-questions-andorid-app-torque-clutch-pedal.html



Have you installed it already or are getting ready to? Finish and do a blt. Youtube has some great examples. Post a video if you can. More for us to go off of
 
I had the same problem on my GSX when my intercooler pipe popped off under high boost. It was running really poor and rich due to lack of air. Once I got the pipe back on and tightened down it was fine.
 
I had the same problem on my GSX when my intercooler pipe popped off under high boost. It was running really poor and rich due to lack of air. Once I got the pipe back on and tightened down it was fine.

Both intercooler pipes were on nice and snug. I had a difficult time getting them off, I don't think they had ever been taken off. I'm going to plug one end of my intercooler and use my boost leak tester on the other end to check and see if it has any leaks but I don't think it does. I have a massive leak somewhere, I know it but I just can't find where it's coming from
 
Damn that def sounds like your IC pipes have a major leak. As far as BLT goes, I was having the same issue of air just rushing into the engine and not being pressurized in the until I manually turn the engine to TDC (feel plenty compression) and guessed about *30 past it. Then I was able to find my boost leak culprit which was my TB shaft seals which is a Major PITA but fixable...same week I found it was the same week some asshole crashed into baby and totaled it while it was parked on the god damn street, can you believe that sh!t?! Any who...your leak definitely sound like a popped off IC coupler. So I suggest you get that BLT done "right way"and you'll be able to get to the bottom of this!
 
Do stock ic piping have couplers? I thought the snorkle was one giant peice of plastic. No, you're right, I think there are two or three connectors

+1 on checking intercooler. Look there for gaps. When I took mine off, I saw that there was a small gap between the ic and housing. Not sure how I missed it, but it was noticible to the eye. Boost leaks suck and are a pita to find. If you run out of ideas on where to look for this leak, youtube blt and you'll maybe find something we have all forgot to mention.
 
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