The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G Running Evo X Wheels on my 420a

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Here’s a better view. Finding old modifications and trying to make sense of them is half the fun of picking up 25 year old DSMs 😂

I was just reading threads about stiffer rear springs on FWD cars for better 1/4 mile times. Could be that?
Doubt the last owner was doing much on a A/T 95 with 128k miles, plus the car being bone stock when I got it LOL. Trying to sense out why the front is still touching regardless. Maybe it is the springs? however It wouldn't make much sense would it, because people be running cars as low or even lower and still not doing any rubbing
 
Doubt the last owner was doing much on a A/T 95 with 128k miles, plus the car being bone stock when I got it LOL. Trying to sense out why the front is still touching regardless. Maybe it is the springs? however It wouldn't make much sense would it, because people be running cars as low or even lower and still not doing any rubbing
Since you're contacting the knuckle and the wheel hub is attached to the same knuckle, the springs wouldn't have anything to do with that. Rubbing on the fender, sure. But the wheel and the knuckle arm are basically tied together in a static vertical position.

No one makes aftermarket knuckles and wheel hubs should be pretty close to oem specs. Those are the only things that would move the wheel inwards, bearing mostly
Makes, or made? :p And I'm not talking about some fancy aftermarket manufacturer. I'm leaning more on the Dorman/Moog/Mevotech/Beck/Arnley sort as they make (? or just new old stock) every other piece that attaches to the knuckle. Thought perhaps at one point one of them made a non-OE part, and OP got a car with those knuckles because of blown lower balljoints. Just a guess.
 
What if they did? just a long time ago tho, makes me wonder why the wheels touch in the front regardless, since the rear seems to just be a smaller arch knuckle now
I have been around along time, believe me shen i say its not been done. I even had scanned oem and galant ones because a myth went around saying it stuck out 1"!
I myth busted this theory to be untrue and was like oem.

Only wheel bearings will and have been made but never seen ones that are off and if so liksly only a few mm not 10-20mm as its impossible,

The knuckle and bearing is what fixes the wheels placement. So either your wheels are not true X wheels or its a special version wheel. So just re confirm the specs on the inside of the wheel as we have a few confirming fitment of the X wheels fit. So something your end is off
 
Since you're contacting the knuckle and the wheel hub is attached to the same knuckle, the springs wouldn't have anything to do with that. Rubbing on the fender, sure. But the wheel and the knuckle arm are basically tied together in a static vertical position.


Makes, or made? :p And I'm not talking about some fancy aftermarket manufacturer. I'm leaning more on the Dorman/Moog/Mevotech/Beck/Arnley sort as they make (? or just new old stock) every other piece that attaches to the knuckle. Thought perhaps at one point one of them made a non-OE part, and OP got a car with those knuckles because of blown lower balljoints. Just a guess.
Made. No one did knuckles not even those brands, i suspect his wheels are not quite right but not gone back to see if he has posted specs of the back yet to confirm the actual wheels
 
I still think it could be tire variation. The clearance is so close that the wrong width tire would rub. Picture attached for example.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I still think it could be tire variation. The clearance is so close that the wrong width tire would rub. Picture attached for example.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Simple check is to see if his 245s buldge past the lip of the wheel.. on all four.
My 245s sit perfectly flush with the lip, no bulge, no suck-in. A perfect width pairing

Made. No one did knuckles not even those brands, i suspect his wheels are not quite right but not gone back to see if he has posted specs of the back yet to confirm the actual wheels
I believe ya, B
:)
you've done the homework
 
I still think it could be tire variation. The clearance is so close that the wrong width tire would rub. Picture attached for example.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Forgot to reply, but this might actually be my issue, I bought my wheels with Yokohama tires on them, and if not mistaken they are just as meatier as the ones shown in the picture
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top