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Running 18G with no V-Band clamp?

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NeMiZiS

Supporting VIP
2,116
51
Jul 25, 2007
Palmer, Alaska
So I got my Talon 1990 Tsi AWD and it didn't have a V-Band clamp on the turbo.
I noticed it was missing and I drove it home very slow.
It over heated on the way home I pulled over shut it off got out and noticed the bottom radiator hose wasn't hooked up!:ohdamn:
I got it home and took the turbo and manifold off to look at the turbo.
The turbo didn't really have play, but I could tell the wheel had lightly touched the housing.
I got a clamp new gaskets and put everything back on.
Now when I rev it up it sounds like a bad grinding sound coming from the turbo?
I was thinking it is from running it with no water and then shutting it off probably messed up the bearings.
But I'm very new to turbos, so I was thinking is it possible the waste gate is stuck and it is just enough for the flapper to rattle? :hmm:
I will get a video posted later on today.
Here are some of the pictures of the turbo when I first took it out.
The model of the turbo FP 18G-6SL2
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Did the seller have any clue what he was doing by selling a "running" car with missing / disconnected parts?


Are you sure you got the center housing back into the turbine housing as straight as possible? If not it's possible the rattle that you're hearing is the heat shield.
 
When I put the turbo back together, I lined it up with the little pin that is on the housing.
Is that the only way to tell that it is straight?
I took the turbo back off today to inspect it some more and I did notice very little side to side shaft play.
But the noise does sound like it could be the heat shield.
Because when I wiggle the heat shield it sounds very similar.
Is it possible I got the wrong V-Band?
I can post a picture of it if necessary.

The seller thought he knew what he was doing.
But I keep finding more and more stuff wrong!
Like the order of the spark plug wires!
 
Check base timing, too. I have a buddy that once got a hell of a deal on a 1G because the base timing was off enough that the car didn't run for shit....no power, felt like the converter was plugged and there was no exhaust flow. Corrected the base timing, and he had himself a clean 1G for around $1000.

As long as your v-band says 90.8 on it somewhere, it's the right size. The locating pin should be in the right place, and the housings should be seated evenly the whole way around. If not, you risk the turbine wheel rubbing the housing.

As for the shaft play- is it bad enough to let either of the wheels rub the housings?
 
Oh I see I will definitely check it then.
Yea all kinds of stuff has been done wrong on this car.

I'm still thinking the turbo is bad though.
I have about a 500-600 dollar budget.
And I've been looking for a new turbo,but want to stay away from the cheap Chinese turbos.
Is there any thing else I should check, before I go buy a new turbo though?
 
You have the option of rebuilding your current turbo; that will make it every bit as good as it was when it was new. Otherwise you'll have your budget plus whatever your 18G-6SL2 sells for if you're going to sell it.
 
Just a quick question,
Should the heat shield spin freely? I feel like it really might be what is making the noise.


jusmx141: If it turns out that the journal bearings are bad and it isn't the heat shield.
Then I would like to send it to you for a rebuild.
Because I saw your add here.
Journal Bearing Turbocharger Rebuild Service - DSM Classifieds
 
Just a quick question,
Should the heat shield spin freely? I feel like it really might be what is making the noise.
It should spin freely if the center housing is removed from the turbine housing, or if it's not tightly fitting into the turbine housing it may rattle....which is why I made the suggestion.
 
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