The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Runnig hot under load

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

guseclipse

15+ Year Contributor
230
16
Sep 10, 2010
Paso Robles, California
I have had this problem for a while now and I am really getting tired of it. I travel about half an hour 3 times a week. I leave early so on the way to I dont have any problems. On the way back if its hot out my temp goes up almost to 3/4. I replaced rad cap, all hoses, new antifreez and mitsu oem t-stat. At the begining of this year I started to burn antifreez bad. So I got new metal head gasket, arp head studs, cut the head flat. I dont know what to do anymore.

I had my car tuned before all this started. Is it possible that my tune has something to do with all this?

I dont want to blow another head gasket.
 
Fans are working fine. I made custom duct from my fmic to my condenser and condenser to rad. I flushed the rad twice when I did the head gasket. When I drive it in town its fine. Its only if I boost it a couple of times or I go up a hill at a steady pace (65-70 mph) when temps start to rise.
 
When was the last time the water pump was done? If the impeller is worn from corrosion or loose on the shaft, it could cause it to flow coolant fine during light driving, yet overheat when you 'push' the engine. After 19 years as a tech. I have seen this more than a few times.....
Don't forget, depending on how much was taken off the head, it will run hotter after machining due to higher compression.
 
When was the last time the water pump was done? If the impeller is worn from corrosion or loose on the shaft, it could cause it to flow coolant fine during light driving, yet overheat when you 'push' the engine. After 19 years as a tech. I have seen this more than a few times.....
Don't forget, depending on how much was taken off the head, it will run hotter after machining due to higher compression.

damn good point right there:thumb: also, what type of intercooler core are you running> bar aand plater, or tube and fin?
 
metal hg, did you deck block, and head to make sure it was flat, at a machine shop? Have you done
a compression test yet to get some idea of a possible blown hg or issues in that area?

The head was decked how about the block?
 
No I did not cut the block. When I took the head to the shop he told me the head was not that bad. There was only one spot that was sipping coolant into the combustion chamber. He told me I should be ok on the block and to use copper spray. I checked the compresion two months ago and was good. I could check it again.
 
Are you loosing coolent? If yes, How much?

Have you checked your AFRs when on boost and under load, you may be going lean for a bit, and that would increse cylylinder head temps and that would cause coolent temps to rise.
 
Bogus SVO I agree with you. I do not loose coolant. I have been checking it when cold and the resevoir. The radiator is the stock one. I think that when I got it tuned he leaned it out towards the bottom end and that is what is making me run so hot. I have no way of checking it. I have apexi turbo timer that is hooked up to my o2 sensor. Can I use the o2 voltage to see if I am running lean? At least give me an idea if thats what is making me run so hot?
 
Ok not loosing coolant, you say, fans, the realy the thermostat, Do a compression test so you can rule that out did you do that yet? I know you got the head decked and a metal hg, are you sure your not loosing coolant. Ok on the turbo timer the accurate way to see if your running lean, or rich is to invest in a wideband thats what it is designed for,and why i got one, i know turbo timers have some used but i didnt know they could gauge a/f seeing voltage, it can show that but so didi my palm pilot.
 
I finally got a chance to do a compression test. Starting with cyl 1 155-160-160-155. I also got time to install a fan on the driver side. Its a 1250 cfm fan rigged to be on with switch on. Also drained my radiator and put water wetter with only water. I drove it monday and didnt get hot, but it also got cold now. It was about 70F when I came up the hill so I dont know if what I did helped or its because its colder out??
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top