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Rpms drop when clutch pushed in!!!

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DSM Chase

10+ Year Contributor
778
51
Sep 19, 2011
Senoia, Georgia
I have had this problem now for months... I cannot figure it out all my link numberes are good. When the clutch is pushed in while changing gears or at a stop light the rpms will drop, Also when i rev it up and let off the gas it rpm drops.... sometimes even shut off :(. My ISC motor tested good all coils at 29 OHMS...

Also my BOV is resirculated...
7lb lighter than stock flywheel
simulating idle switch on LINK
Link idle setting at 1k
battery at 13.5v

TPS is at 0.68 at idle and 5.0V at WOT so its good?

ECMLINK Log file.... Its towards the end of the log i am driving down the road and then when i go to turn into my driveway when i pushed the clutch in it happend... Im going about 13MPH when it happens drops to around 400-500RPMS then shoots back to 1000...Log is at the bottom In the Attached Files..

Quick video of it rev RPM dropping, does same thing with clutch in or in neutral


RPM Drop ISSUE - YouTube
 

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  • rpm dropppp.elg
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Didn't look at the log or watch the video... .


But, it Could be a issues with deadtimes( or a few other things mentioned) a lot of the time costing down to a stop your voltage drops and if you haven't adjusted the deadtimes "properly" and use a across the board setting like a lot of people do you can run into a lot of issues like that... .
 
Most of what has been suggested Imo are bandaids for real problems and can cause more issues depending on what your tring to do...

I took a look at the log in the first pull and your setting in ECMlink... .

As I said last, adjust your dead-times properly also quite using the Fuel sliders to tune... . A good tune and I bet this car wouldn't do anything of any concern.
 
Jut Keeping this thread alive here... Car still has this issue... It has nothing to do with ecmlinks tune, the car would do it on the stock ecu also... The only thing left i can think of is The Cam Angle Sensor?
 
Mine did that for a while too. I went under the dash and adjusted the pedal position there and it stopped doing it.

I just went and drove my car and it started doing it again.:cry:
 
I say you have a small boost leak some where. That's why when you build boost with the 2step it automatically dies and when you don't it almost dies. Check for boost leak.
 
Looking at your log it seems as your running rich at idle, your profile mention you have a 255 with no afpr to control fuel pressure. You said you have a leak at the throttle body shaft seal, that is part of your issue. I don't see anything regarding a wideband or are you going by the afratio est on link? M1GDSM is right you need to work on that tune especially your dead time. These are the things I would look into

1. get a afpr if you don't have one
2. fix the throttle shaft seals
3. get a wideband if you don't have one
4. fix your deadtime and tune
 
This probelm recently occurred to me as well. it idles at 500 when its on cold crank if I drive it in the beginning. I've had it turn off once when I was turning left, but when I shifted to second gear and let the clutch go, it did rolling start...? Whats wrong?
 
IT'S TIME TO CHECK FOR CRANK ENDPLAY! <<<---

Stop beating around the bush, it sucks if you have the walk, but this is the number 1 indicator of it. At the very least rule it out.
 
You have two options left.

1. Check for crank walk. How much would it hurt to watch the crank pulley while a friend presses in the clutch? At least then you would be able to rule it out.

2. Follow the advice of an experienced tuner who looked at your log and pointed out your exact issue 2 months ago. You say it has nothing to do with the ECU because it did it when it was stock. Is it possible it's because you have never changed the voltage based dead time from stock values and your voltage has always been dropping too low? :hmm: I just don't see why you would pass off such advice without even a second thought.
 
Totaly missed this... LOL

It has nothing to do with ecmlinks tune,
Oh really?
the car would do it on the stock ecu also...

So? You really think every set of 15 year old injectors have the same exact characteristics as they all where suppose to off the show room floor? or Because every injector is exactly the same right?

I looked at your log at the time, I said that... and Mecheanic problems aside. I seen more then a few thign in the tune that could cause issues regaudless if they ARE your problem... .So ya guess it's your call What do I know :|
 
Sorry i dont know what i was thinking when i posted that, I am almost certain it is my tune now. Could you please tell me how to adjust my deadtimes? Are you talking about the Deadtimes Usecs in the Fuel Tab?

New setup log in attached Files!!!
 

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  • RPM DROP JULY 16.elg
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Your timing values at idle can be an issue. There is a very large jump. It needs to be a smooth transition. Try using 15-16* in the 750 and 1000 rpm range.
 

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    timing.PNG
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Thanks broken, Will try that once i get home, Any other suggestions on the log? Im probably going to be removing my s259 and going to a 68HTA just for street benefits, keeping the car away from the track more now because of our Drag Car in progress!
 
Fixed the little timing issue as broken pointed out, No Joy same thing... Heres a quick log of me just idling then reving to 6K and letting it fall back, goes all the way to 0Rpm and shuts off.



Log file in attachments.
 

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  • RPM DROP AUGUST 6.elg
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Sadly to say check ## crankshaft. it could be crank walk or just barley starting :/
 
Why did you rock the throttle while revving up to 6k?

Regardless, your "tune" has a lot of issues. At a quick glance:

1). Your O2 sensor isn't working properly

2). Your fuel and timing sliders should be zero'd (as MY1GDSM mentioned a month and a half ago in post #78). Your fuel sliders are pulling 23% fuel across the board above 4k, which means your airflow calibration and/or fuel settings are not correct.

3). Your immediate open loop thresholds have been changed for some reason, and are completely whacked. At 1000 and 3500 rpm for example, the ECU is set to drop into open loop with a load factor of only .03, but 1500 rpm is set to .56 and 3000 rpm is set to .78. That means it's going to constantly drop in and out of open loop at unpredictable times...which you can see it doing in the log.

4). Your ISC (BISS) is out of adjustment

5). Your DA tables are still set extremely rich (another reason the fuel sliders are pulling so much fuel).

6). Airflow smoothing has been set to 88% across the board for some reason.

Etc etc.

My advice - find someone that knows what they are doing and start completely over on setting up your ECU...assuming all of your mechanical issues are worked out.

*****

(I hope that didn't sound wrong... not my intention.)
 
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Heloo dsm tuners im in need of help with my 2g gsx. I bought it about 2 months ago now and it wasnt starting, i got it to start about 3 weeks ago but now the idle is bad going up n down from about 900-1200 rpm. Also when i press down on the clutch and also when i turn on the a/c. Rpms will sometimes drop all the way down n turn off. So far i already put in new crankposition sensor,cam position sensor, idle air conrol valve, cleaned the throttle body, tryed adjusting the biss but rpms still drop..Im thinking of getting a new throttle position sensor but i dont think its bad since im not getting a check engine light?? If anyone can help i would greatly apreciate it!! Thank you
 
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