RestoMod: Bad Mama Jama

[ViciousLord]

ViciousLord submitted a new DSM Profile :

Track capable street car


Read more about this vehicle here...

 

[ViciousLord]

First hiccup...

The car hasn't moved in 3 years, after diagnosising a no start I found out the starter relay was gone, after bypassing it the motor now turns over. But still NO start.

Changed plugs, wires and the starter (original starter was working but figured with a 153k, why not replace it).

Still, motor turned over but no start. Pulled the fuel line off the rail and it was bone dry. Pull the fuel pump and it was beyond gone. Word of advice, do not leave ethanol blended gas of any kind in the gas tank if the car is going to sit for a while.

Thankfully I found a local who had a perfect condition fuel pump hanger sending unit AND the other sending unit/level from the other side.l of the tank.

Enjoy and cringe at the pics.

 

[ViciousLord]

Current status:

The more I dig into this car the more I realize how much work I have ahead of me, .
Since I've bought a great condition fuel pump hanger/sending unit, I can not put it into a tank of water/bad gas. Unfortunately the tank doesn't have a drain plug, the only true way to clean and empty this tank is to remove it and reinstall it.

The plan now is to remove the complete rear suspension with subframe and gas tank. Once everything is out, I will start rebuilding the rear suspension with all new arms, poly bushings, end links, sway bar, brakes, etc... the subframe will be stitch welded and powdercoated to prevent rusting and installed with solid bushings. I will also be sealing the whole underside of the car with undercoating, again to prevent future rusting.
One thing I did forget to mention, when I bought this car the spare tire well was completely rusted through from a previous hatch leak. I had a shop completely remove the spare tire well and put in a flat piece of sheet metal.

 

[ViciousLord]

Update: Well as luck would have it, I ran into another speed bump.

Rear subframe is ready to come but one of subframe bolts is giving me a hell of a time (circled in red). The bolt doesn't freely spin but once I apply a good amount of force it'll turn, looks like the locking nut is rusted on real good. I've been soaking those bolts for days before I even attempted to take them off. I'm wondering if I can carefully cut the nut off without damaging the actual bolt. Worst case scenario is I locate the subframe bolt from above and cut away some of the metal to gain access to that bolt. I can't see to locate it. If anyone has any ideas on how to tackle this, I'd greatly appreciated.

As usual pics are attached.

 

[motomattx]

Use a nut splitter on the nut.

 

[ViciousLord]

Use a nut splitter on the nut.

The problem is the nut is recessed a little.. I don't think the nut splitter can get the angle necessary to actually cut the nut.

 

[motomattx]

The problem is the nut is recessed a little.. I don't think the nut splitter can get the angle necessary to actually cut the nut.

Ahh, ok. I guess a torch and a careful operator could split it.

 

[bluespunk]

What happens if you hit it with an impact wrench? Since it's not a constant torque on the nut and bolt, sometimes it can get it to spin the nut without spinning the bolt (or just not as far). Probably won't get all the way off, but might help you get it far enough to get a nut splitter on it.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

There is a recess hole in the frame rails, if you can get something in there to jam against the side of it then that stops it spinning around or stops it turning when more force is put on it, evos have this same issue on the front subframe infact, silly internal bolts design, it was a way of them having movement for the studs so it always fitted, each bolt moves a good 3mm total , talk about precision from the factory haha.

So thats my advice and it should work if you can bend something to jam in ok,

Also shock load the nut aswel, break its seal with a tap on the nut with a socket on and free the threads a bit, it recently worked for me on dropping a FWD subframe off

 

[ViciousLord]

Thanks everyone for the advice.

Today we made some progress. I still haven't gotten the nut to come out without spinning the bolt. At this point the bolt is rotating easier so I've come to the conclusion that the bolt will need to be replaced. Attached are pics of the hole I cut from inside the car to access the bolt. Now I need to find out how to remove the bolt with minimal damage. This is making me extremely nervous as this is a crucial area for structure.

Inside the red circle is the bolt head. Having someone turn the nut using an impact wrench I can see the bolt turn inside the hole.

Again if anyone has any idea on whats the best way to get this bolt out, I'm all ears.

 

[motomattx]

Either drill through the bolt until its gone with bigger and bigger bits or drill down through it and put an easy out down through it to hold it while you take the nut off or tack weld it to the body down in there and then just knock it up out when your done.

 

[ViciousLord]

Success!

I managed to get access to the top of the subframe bolt and jammed a flat head screw driver. Finally, after a couple of tries the nut broke loose and came off. At a later date I'll have that bolt welded so it won't ever move and I'll have a cover plate welded on to cover that gapping hole.

Now I'm looking for a local welder to stitch weld and strengthen this subframe. All the welds from factory look fine but I am just paranoid. Afterwards I'll be powdercoating it.

Thank you to everyone for helping.

 

[ViciousLord]

Long over due update:
Progress has been slow but still moving along.

I removed the rear subframe and gas tank.

I discovered a little bit of rust in the corners of the underbody, I went ahead and scraped off all loose rust and proceeded to strip it down to bare metal. I coated the bare metal after treatment, with POR 15. Then I applied a rubberized underbody coating over the entire rear underbody. Same thing was done to the rear wheel wells.

 

[ViciousLord]

Gas tank is back in as well.

Subframe was stitch welded and modified to utilize the @bostonhatcher rear diff mounting kit.

The subframe, gas tank straps and some other parts were all powder coated in satin black.

And solid aluminum rear subframe bushings have been pressed in along with rear diff bushings from @Gsx-Dude.

 

[ViciousLord]

I do have some bad news some of the rust did manage to eat through the metal in some spots, nothing crazy, I'll just have the body shop repair it before prep.

That's it for now.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

For the age of the car thats very little rust. Lucky thats all it is back there as some pics i see are terrible

 

[ViciousLord]

Yeah, I lucked out big time. The previous owner claimed it was a Florida only car, come to find out he bought in PA.

What I'm looking for now is new mounting diff bolts and nuts. I have new OEM bolts for the rear mount (from subframe to diff cover). Since I have the Boston Hatcher mounting kit, I need hardware for BOTH sides of the diff. I would go with OEM but that have been discontinued.

Thanks again.

 

[ViciousLord]

Discontinued parts in question:
2 - MF106157
2 - MS450045
2 - MF430124

 

[ViciousLord]

Update:

Fuel filler neck was powder coated satin black and installed with all new hardware.

Stock rear diff cover broke while replacing the old bolts, upon closer inspection it was covered in spider cracks. I went online and ordered Frontline's rear diff cover, this thing is beefy!
As mentioned before I also added the @bostonhatcher diff mounting solution, it's definitely worth it.

 

[ViciousLord]

I ran into a hiccup when I installed the diff back on the subframe, everything was off. After speaking with @bostonhatcher he noticed the rear diff bushings were pressed in too far. After I pushed back the bushings everything lined up perfectly.

The goal today was to install the subframe.

Using generic fuel hoses, I redid the fuel filler hose into the tank and vent line.

 

[ViciousLord]

And final product!

Next up: Put rear suspension and brakes back together... Then continue to seal the undercarriage and run new bigger fuel lines to the front..

 

[Dusty Landrum]

Maaaaan, I am literally doing the exact same thing to my car right now. Having the same issue with finding hardware! Partsouq has been a life saver. You have now persuaded me to go with the new diff cover too. Looking good dude!