[RESOLVED] Engine Problems...don't know where to start

[knochgoon24]

Where to start... (sorry for the essay, it's a DSM with more than it's share of problems right now.)

Symptoms:
-Can't hear turbo spool, (and i do know what it sounds like)
-Hesitates between 2k-3k when accelerating (really bad until it warms up, then it's just bad)
-I think i smelled gas while it was running a few days ago. It was brief but strong.
-There's a strong smell of burning rubber when it gets hot (been there for 4 weeks). Comes stronger around passenger side of engine.
-The check engine light is on. It usually is on (2nd cylinder misfires, has since i bought the car) but it's only occasionally. I was going to look into fixing that this summer. When sears swapped the battery, the light stayed off for over 200 miles. Usually it trips in the first 20. I haven't had the chance to get the error code read yet. I plan on doing that this evening.
-Only one of the 2 radiator fans were running when i opened the hood. Not sure if this is a problem or not, i just haven't seen only 1 on before.

Possible places to start:
-Car has 206k miles, Engine has 60k since put in the car used (by previous owner), turbo has 30k and transmission has 50k.
-The car runs very rich. Needs tuned.
-I broke the belt that powers the altenator and the water pump (November). Had it towed (flat bed) to my aunts and put a new belt on there. Replaced the other 2 when i got home.
-I just had a new battery installed by Sears (last Wed). Car barely started when it was in then 10s. I don't have a garage to work in since i'm at college right now, so i had them put it in for me.
-I found a mouse nest on the intake manifold (yesterday), but a quick check didn't show any bare wires or chewed tubes in the area.
-When the turbo did spool, when the car was cold and the temps were below 40, the turbo would kick in, then let off, then kick in, and let off until i gave it enough gas. Then it instantly jumped to 4k.
-I broke the ABS wheel speed sensor (November) while replacing a bad wheel bearing. I just broke the plastic cover off, but the wire got nicked bad too. I cut that bad section out and spliced it, and attempted to seal the cover with silicone. The first time I didn't get a good seal and water leaked in, tripping the ABS light. The second time, I used some shrink tube and liquid electrical tape. I haven't had a problem with that since. Just not sure if i might have damaged some electrical stuff while it was shorted.


Sorry for the essay, but i have no clue where to start.

 

[zimfro]

My car had some of the same turbo sputter problems. The previous owner had it running way too rich and I believe the catalytic converter plugged up. I'll know more tonight when I remove the cat.

 

[FFTec - jerry]

Where to start... (sorry for the essay, it's a DSM with more than it's share of problems right now.)

Symptoms:
-Can't hear turbo spool, (and i do know what it sounds like)
-Hesitates between 2k-3k when accelerating (really bad until it warms up, then it's just bad)
-I think i smelled gas while it was running a few days ago. It was brief but strong.
-There's a strong smell of burning rubber when it gets hot (been there for 4 weeks). Comes stronger around passenger side of engine.
-The check engine light is on. It usually is on (2nd cylinder misfires, has since i bought the car) but it's only occasionally. I was going to look into fixing that this summer. When sears swapped the battery, the light stayed off for over 200 miles. Usually it trips in the first 20. I haven't had the chance to get the error code read yet. I plan on doing that this evening.
-Only one of the 2 radiator fans were running when i opened the hood. Not sure if this is a problem or not, i just haven't seen only 1 on before.

Possible places to start:
-Car has 206k miles, Engine has 60k since put in the car used (by previous owner), turbo has 30k and transmission has 50k.
-The car runs very rich. Needs tuned.
-I broke the belt that powers the altenator and the water pump (November). Had it towed (flat bed) to my aunts and put a new belt on there. Replaced the other 2 when i got home.
-I just had a new battery installed by Sears (last Wed). Car barely started when it was in then 10s. I don't have a garage to work in since i'm at college right now, so i had them put it in for me.
-I found a mouse nest on the intake manifold (yesterday), but a quick check didn't show any bare wires or chewed tubes in the area.
-When the turbo did spool, when the car was cold and the temps were below 40, the turbo would kick in, then let off, then kick in, and let off until i gave it enough gas. Then it instantly jumped to 4k.
-I broke the ABS wheel speed sensor (November) while replacing a bad wheel bearing. I just broke the plastic cover off, but the wire got nicked bad too. I cut that bad section out and spliced it, and attempted to seal the cover with silicone. The first time I didn't get a good seal and water leaked in, tripping the ABS light. The second time, I used some shrink tube and liquid electrical tape. I haven't had a problem with that since. Just not sure if i might have damaged some electrical stuff while it was shorted.


Sorry for the essay, but i have no clue where to start.

There seems to be multiple problems with your car. First off, I think you need to find all of the random things burning or melting in your engine bay. There's numerous things that could cause significant damage to the car. I'd say to start with replacing all the damaged sensors, and then replace of fix any of the harnesses or wires that could have been or are damaged. Check all of your fuel lines, injectors, and injector o-rings to make sure they are good as well. Afterwards, I think you should have a boost leak test performed.

Try this stuff first, you should be able to trace some if not all of the problems down and go from there.

Jerry

 

[knochgoon24]

UPDATE:
While taking it to get the error codes read, i did hear the turbo spool up. It wasn't going up to full speed, but it was there. I'll have to check for leaks. Would a bad wastegate solenoid cause the wastegate to stay open? Saw that on another forum.

The code reader didn't have an Eagle Talon in the internal list, so we ran it using Global OBD-II. Kicked up
P1750 - Manfacurer Contrl. Transmission.
Any clue if that would relate to this problem?

Also, new problem, non-engine related. When I pulled into the parking lot back on campus, I started hearing a dull thudding sound When I made left turns, but not on right ones. Any clue what this new problem is caused by?

 

[crimsondragon]

Stop bumping up your thread. It's against the rules.

First, spend $15 and get a Hayne's Service manual. While you're there, grab some new wires, spark plugs (6's), oil, coolant, transmission fluid. Whatever works. Generally Royal Purple is good. Do a full complete tune up. Change the oil, flush the coolant, change the transmission fluid, change out plugs, wires, whatever the manual tells you to do. I'm assuming you bought this car off someone else recently and that you didn't do this to your car yourself. Change the belts as well.

After that, it should eliminate some of your problems. If it doesn't, it doesn't hurt to service anyway. From there on, do a boost leak test, check turbo for shaft play, make sure there are no other mice nests, etc etc.

 

[tlikethedrink]

check to see if you got any torn boots on your CV's for the noises when turning.

you should start with the basics.change filters, check the plugs/wires, boost leak test, check for a clogged cat, check all fuses. any/everything you can do cheap or free. if nothing less youll have peace of mind.

it shouldnt be running rich if its stock. check your fuel system out. change your filter.

you put 200 miles on since last WED?

pull your battery for a while, let it reset. see if the CEL comes on again.

definatley try n find what ever is burning in your engine bay. if you dont see any open wires, clean it up a bit- degrease and pressure wash it, maybe somethings just burning off.

if you can run the car with less restriction in the intake. maybe you can hear the turbo a litte better.

i would also do stuff like clean out your TB and intercooler, not only to check it, but for peace of mind. unplug and plug in connections- make sure theyre making contact.

 

[knochgoon24]

Sorry about the bumps, didn't see that rule here. thanks for that tip.

I have a Haynes manual, it helped with reassembly after replacing the axle along with the wheel bearing (hub fused to axle).

Also, i'll def sound like a nubie, but is it safe to just open the hood and spray stuff down?

I cleaned the intercooler real good and unbent all the fins (which took 3 hrs) over the summer. I'll have to check hose connections again.

I live 120 miles from home since i'm at college. I had some all-seasons put on last thursday and took the worn tires home over the weekend so i could burn off the rest of the tread in the summer. They sucked in the snow. I'm actually closer to 300 miles since having the battery installed (wed) and the tires installed (thrus). That's when i really started to notice the lack of turbo. It was really slow on the onramp.

I changed all but the timing belt in november when the main belt (not the ps or a/c) belt broke on the way home for thanksgiving break. I retightened them over christmas break.

I bought the car 2 novembers ago. It had 191k miles on it. He had the turbo, engine, and transmission all replaced in the previous years. He was the only owner. He moved to seattle and was going to buy another talon there instead of paying for shipping. He drove it 75 miles each way to work everyday, mostly highway.

As for the running rich. It's been that way since i got it. I bought a high-flow filter for in the box, but haven't got around to putting an intake on it yet. Is there anyway to try and get it leaner? It doesn't run well on 91.

I'm going to buy a boost gauge, was thinking of getting one before but i'll get one now so i can get a reading on the boost for you guys. P/M me with some cheap but quality suggestions. I'm not putting any gauges on the a-pilar, just tucking where ever they fit.

 

[crimsondragon]

Sorry about the bumps, didn't see that rule here. thanks for that tip.

I have a Haynes manual, it helped with reassembly after replacing the axle along with the wheel bearing (hub fused to axle).

Also, i'll def sound like a nubie, but is it safe to just open the hood and spray stuff down?

I cleaned the intercooler real good and unbent all the fins (which took 3 hrs) over the summer. I'll have to check hose connections again.

I live 120 miles from home since i'm at college. I had some all-seasons put on last thursday and took the worn tires home over the weekend so i could burn off the rest of the tread in the summer. They sucked in the snow. I'm actually closer to 300 miles since having the battery installed (wed) and the tires installed (thrus). That's when i really started to notice the lack of turbo. It was really slow on the onramp.

I changed all but the timing belt in november when the main belt (not the ps or a/c) belt broke on the way home for thanksgiving break. I retightened them over christmas break.

I bought the car 2 novembers ago. It had 191k miles on it. He had the turbo, engine, and transmission all replaced in the previous years. He was the only owner. He moved to seattle and was going to buy another talon there instead of paying for shipping. He drove it 75 miles each way to work everyday, mostly highway.

As for the running rich. It's been that way since i got it. I bought a high-flow filter for in the box, but haven't got around to putting an intake on it yet. Is there anyway to try and get it leaner? It doesn't run well on 91.

I'm going to buy a boost gauge, was thinking of getting one before but i'll get one now so i can get a reading on the boost for you guys. P/M me with some cheap but quality suggestions. I'm not putting any gauges on the a-pilar, just tucking where ever they fit.

Depends on what you're spraying with and where. I personally wouldn't hose my engine bay down with anything. Moderate cleaning with Simple Green is good though. Watch the sensors and all that. If you want a cheap boost gauge, search the classifieds or just get an autometer. As for you running rich, you're not venting are you? As I said before, check for boost leaks. Air that has been metered by the MAS only to be leaked out somewhere along the way will make you run rich. That'll foul your spark plugs up which might be the cause of your misfire.

 

[FFTec - jerry]

It's probably in your best interest not to spray down the WHOLE engine bay. You can clean it in sections, while covering electronics with bags and tape. Do not use a pressure washer, no matter how tempting it might be. Go to your nearest auto parts store, they sell engine degreaser stuff in a can. Spray it on, wipe off what you can, if you must, use a hose to rinse, but again, be careful of the sensors, wiring harnesses, and accumulation of puddles in the engine bay.

Jerry

 

[knochgoon24]

I'll have to get around to cleaning the engine sometime soon then. Too bad it's going to be another cold weekend here.

I'll check on the cv boot tomorrow when it's light. I hope it's not that, I can't afford another axle right now. The last one was a pain. The hub was seized to the axle. Even tried a 12 ton press.

I'll try to at least check the spark plugs tomorrow. Maybe that will give some clues.

Any clue what would kick up the "P1750 - Manfacurer Contrl. Transmission." error? I'll pull the terminal and reset the ECU tomorrow, but I'm curious.

I did find another site that says P1750 is "Solenoid Assembly" instead. From here

I assume that would be the solenoid that controls the wastegate? Or would it be the TCC solenoid? I remember seeing that on another site while talking about error codes and it was mentioned at the same time as the wastegate solenoid, but i can't remember what it was all about.

 

[knochgoon24]

So, i went out to check hoses and the CV boot. I couldn't get under the car to check the CV boot, but I did look at the hoses.

I found this:

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Along with being broken off, it is plugged.
It seems that the previous owner used epoxy to stick it back on. I saw a crack in it, wiggled it to get the hose off, and it snapped off.

How many of my problems would this have caused? Also what is it?

 

[crimsondragon]

That would be your blow off valve. That line leads to your intake manifold. That'll cause a huge boost/vac leak. It won't recirculate the air correctly when you let off the throttle.

 

[knochgoon24]

Well, guess that's my main problem after all. Thanks guys. I just hope my CV boots isn't torn. That will be my next problem.