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[RESOLVED] Are 1g & 2g valve covers the same? (Yes.) [Merged 12-8]

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yoshimitsuspeed

15+ Year Contributor
674
5
Jul 17, 2004
portland, Oregon
I am making a spark plug cover for production so I decided I want to change the lines and fitment a little to make it a little tighter and cleaner. I just wanted to make sure every thing surounding the spark plug cover was shaped identically on all 4G63 valve covers.
 
Are all the valve covers for the turbo engines the same, or are the 1st gens and 2nd gens different. My cover is cracked so i need a new one asap
 
spoolintsi97 said:
Are all the valve covers for the turbo engines the same, or are the 1st gens and 2nd gens different. My cover is cracked so i need a new one asap
all 4g63T valve covers are the same. (yes 1g and 2g) Ive got one for sale if'n ya need it.
 
Dont forget to be very delicate when putting your new one back on. Be especially careful with the inner bolts. I cracked one when replacing my valvecover gasket and then cracked the replacement!! I was pissed to say the least. Loosely tighten them at first. If its leaking you can always go back and snug them a bit more. Its way better to do a little more work than to end up cracking another cover.
 
ericbev said:
Loosely tighten them at first. If its leaking you can always go back and snug them a bit more. Its way better to do a little more work than cracking another cover.

I agree just bought another one. I had just painted my stock one and I didn't listen to my friend!! Lesson learned!! The one I bought is really cool though!
 

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Try to find a hyundai one on ebay. I think those look the best because they have less stuff written on them. All they have is 24 VALVE DOHC on them. Have it powdered red and you will be set. Thats what I have. With this valve cover you will be able to use the mitsubishi gasket but you will need longer main bolts which are like 50 cents at Lowes. You need M6 x 1 45mm i think.
 
I have come to beleive that our valve covers just plain suck. My brother and I have owned 10 dsm's(including a Galant vr4) and it seems like all of them had cracks in the valve cover and it is really frustrating to see a puddle of oil everytime I open the hood.

I am going to be building a pretty peppy engine this month for my 96 awd, and I was gonna polish a valve cover for it.

Which is more prone to leaks, the 1g or 2g? I plan to inspect whichever one I use for cracks and fill them in somehow, any suggestions on how to do this?
 
I have come to beleive that our valve covers just plain suck. My brother and I have owned 10 dsm's(including a Galant vr4) and it seems like all of them had cracks in the valve cover and it is really frustrating to see a puddle of oil everytime I open the hood.
It's not the valve covers that suck, it's the people that can't/don't read the manual and start cranking down on the bolts rather than replacing the hardened seal to keep them from leaking. I still have the original cover on my car after 15+ years. I've been through a bunch of oil filler cap seals and a couple of valve cover and spark plug well seals in that time. The spec for the bolts is <=3 ft lbs and most people can do that and more with their pinky and a 1/4" drive socket wrench.

I've never heard of a single valve cover cracking if you follow the FSM.

Steve
 
well I must buy my cars from idiots. My brother and I generall flip the cars for a profit so we dont have time to mess with this stuff, unless they have cylinder head issues.

Also I work on cars for a living, and I understand that it is easy to over torque any valve cover so I always use a torque wrench. I am pretty sure the spec. was a little higher like 7 ft lbs. which isn't much either.
 
Yes, His Noodly Appendage keeps valve covers intact and salad fresh.

Just keep it between 32-36 inch-pounds at most (read: 3ft/lb max) and follow the torquing pattern, and the cover should be safe from cracking. For those who can't find one, Sears sells a torque wrench that goes from 0-75 inch-pounds, for $80.

I may break down and go to satan for my new valve cover... current one isn't cracked at all, but two of the support legs for the oil baffles managed to break off at some point in the past, leading to a very nasty rattly buzzing noise. Doesn't seem to have an effect on operation, but damn if it doesn't get annoying *quick*.
Is there any way to repair the oil baffle supports? I haven't been able to find anything about it.
 
I am not trying to be rude, but both of you were kind of off the topic from what I was asking. I dont want to know how to prevent cracking, I just would like to know what people are using to fix the little hairline cracks that seem to be showing up.

Alot of the dsm's I have baught people have silicone on spots of the valve covers, which doesn't look like it works well.

also I dont think that over tightening will cause these hairline crack, I think the spec is so low to prevent strippin of the threads in the head.

Thank you for the replies and trying to be helpful, and maybe I am to blame for the way I asked my question.
 
valve covers aren't just going to crack spontaneously. 99.95% of the time the valve cover bolts are over-torqued. Anyway, most people fix cracked valve covers by buying new/used ones that aren't cracked. You can usually get them for around $20 used.
 
Well thanks. I will go dig through the piles of valve covers I have, get my carb spray out and hope I have a good one, I should.

Just a side note, I am sure that some of mine have been gasket issues, at least I would hope not all of them were cracked.

Thanks guys.
 
JB Weld seems to fix just about everything...

Also, a local guy who does some powdercoating I believe was using an aluminim bonding material that is supposed to work in the powdercoating process. I don't know if the results were great or not, but it's another option.
 
Spln_Hrd said:
I am not trying to be rude, but both of you were kind of off the topic from what I was asking. I dont want to know how to prevent cracking, I just would like to know what people are using to fix the little hairline cracks that seem to be showing up.

Also I dont think that over tightening will cause these hairline crack, I think the spec is so low to prevent strippin of the threads in the head.

Guess what, Over tightening the bolts is exactly what causes them to crack. If you haven't grasped it yet your pretty sure was 100% over the spec. If somebody manags to strip the threads out they're going to be at least 5x the torque spec.

If you want to really fix the cracks then get out the TIG torch and weld them up.
Same for Talesin to fix up the vibrating baffle.

Steve
 
As noted above, overtightening is the leading cause of cracked valve covers. 3ft/lb is just barely past finger tight. You can JBWeld for a temp patch if you're shady, and don't care about it re-cracking after it's been sold.

Steve, I'll give that a shot if I can find a shop in the area with a TIG welder... not that easy to come by from what I've seen. Probably just pick up a few VCs from a pick-a-part and try them out until I find one that doesn't leak. Only other real option I can see is to go to satan and pay a ridiculous amount.
 
I was at the JY today and got a marker light from an Eclipse GS. Saw that it still had the engine. It is an automatic, non-turbo....will the valve cover from it fit on my turbo motor? I'd think a valve cover is a valve cover, but just want to make sure before I go pull it off and buy it. Because mine is cracked to hell and leaks oil near the spark plugs.
 
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