Requirments for a EVOIII 16G

[GunnaBaSleeper]

I have a line on a Evo III 16G $500 for one with the Jpipe and and ported O2 housing with no shaft play. now i know to use the turbo to its full potential you need to upgrade the fuel system, but is it possiable to run it at stockboost with out any problems. also would the SMIC cut it of should i upgrade to FMIC. lastly (which ties to question 1) can i run that turbo without having to tune it of is that a requirment thanks

 

[95 tsi awd]

what are you going to tune with?

 

[50trimmed1g]

You can run the evo 3 but I would get a boost controller and run it lower than stock boost pressure. My recommendation for you would be to but a set of 660cc injectors, an SAFC2, a manual boost controller, and a fuel pump upgrade (walbro 190, or 255lph with adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Only with this setup can you safely run and really have fun with that turbo. I know a evo316g flows a lot more air than you stock turbo even in low boost situations so my recommendation would be for you to atleast rewire your fuel pump and get an SAFC.

 

[Drubble]

You can certainly run it at stock boost without issues, but as you said its potential will remain unrealized. Once you get it installed, that little dsm gremlin sitting on your shoulder is going to be whispering things in your ear: i.e. "Upgrades!" Then you'll need to look into fuel pump, injectors, front mount I/C, bov, something to tune with, etc.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I would get a logger, at leat 550cc inejectors, and fmic, the stock fmic, can heat soak.
You want your evo to be effecient. A upgraded fuel pump walbro 190 will be sufficient as well.

 

[oldman420]

hahaha i think this damn website is that whisper .
O2 is ported so you won't have to about creep, so yah your good to go. An aftermarket boost guage, and contoller and your good to go.

 

[My1GLaser]

Check out their chart about 1/2 way down the page for fuel requirements. Road Race Engineering's Eclipse Fuel Delivery Upgrades

You would probably have to run 8 psi in order to not need a tuning device/logger, but what the hell fun is that. Pick up a used MBC, boost gauge, AFC, palm & run a freeware logger for about $250-275 total.

You can keep the SMIC for up to about 16-18 psi. It is much more effecient that a t-25 or 14b in that range. You won't be able to do 1,2,3 pulls back to back. Gonna have to cruise for a bit and cool off that SMIC. I am running my 14b at 17psi on the SMIC with 9:1 CR and not seeing knock on a very hard 1,2,3 run. But I mistakenly tried another right away and was pulling 3* timing. So it will heatsoak at that boost.

 

[greddyturbo19]

I Would Get The Fmic Even A Cheappy One From Ebay Will Be Better Than The Side Mount.

 

[silver bullit]

You may fuel cut on the 2g, t-25 and the 16g flow very different.

 

[grantman10]

Well, just to give you another perspective, i have just done the same thing. I just slapped in an E16g, tubular manifold, and o2 dump.

I still have the stock fuel pump, and injectors and have my mbc set at 12psi. Luckily i dont have to deal with boost creep because i have an o2 dump.

However, i think i am going to turn my boost down a little more since i dont have a logger and i dont want to blow anything up.

If i were you i would set it around 10psi.

I plan on getting some 750cc injectors and putting in the evo 8 fuel pump i already have, and a front mount. For tuning im going to go the keydiver chip route since i have an eprom ecu.

I Need to get this gremlin taken care of!!!

 

[kenamond]

I'd spend the $500 on the stuff everyone says you need to support the upgraded turbo. Then get a turbo. Follow the upgrade path. You can get more performance out of a T25 with rewired stock FP, eBay FMIC and a $300 eBay 3" turboback exhaust than a 16g and nothing else. Then get the fuel upgrades, tuning device, maybe wideband...then a turbo.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

Check my profile... I'm running a completley bone stock fuel set up and a E316g on 14 psi. of boost all day every day, and have been for about 6+ months now. I'm still running rich as sh!t too. Get a logger though, just because I'm running 14 lbs. doesn't mean that you'll be able to (who knows, maybe your car can get away with 15 lbs.)

Don't believe the hype. You'll be totally fine running this set up... except for that damn boost gremlin, he's gonna be pissed that you're still on the stocker fuel system.

 

[bacalhau16]

Grantman, for Evo's upgrading the fuel pump is one of the first mods, so Im not sure how far you are going to get with that if you are looking for a lot of power.

To the OP, I would agree that you should just spend that money on upgrading your fuel and tuning options, then get a bigger turbo. Doesnt really make much sense to get a bigger turbo, then run low boost because you have to. Get a little bigger injectors, a fuel pump, AFPR, and an S-AFC and run more boost on your stock turbo. I think you would be better off as well.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

Doesnt really make much sense to get a bigger turbo, then run low boost because you have to. Get a little bigger injectors, a fuel pump, AFPR, and an S-AFC and run more boost on your stock turbo. I think you would be better off as well.

It really doesn't make much sense to get all the upgrades first when you can easily run a T25 at 16 psi and the turbo is maxed out before you even hit 5500RPM. OR, you can get yourself the E316g and run 14 psi on stock fuel and actually have a turbo that will pull all the way to redline (plus you'll actually see a difference when you DO get those supporting fuel mods).

Which really makes more sense? Spend close to a grand on fuel mods and an AFC to get nowhere... or, spend $500 now and see a noticable difference and THEN spend another grand to see a BIG difference? Either way your going to get to the same place, but don't you wanna enjoy the ride?

 

[kenamond]

It really doesn't make much sense to get all the upgrades first when you can easily run a T25 at 16 psi and the turbo is maxed out before you even hit 5500RPM. OR, you can get yourself the E316g and run 14 psi on stock fuel and actually have a turbo that will pull all the way to redline (plus you'll actually see a difference when you DO get those supporting fuel mods).

Which really makes more sense? Spend close to a grand on fuel mods and an AFC to get nowhere... or, spend $500 now and see a noticable difference and THEN spend another grand to see a BIG difference? Either way your going to get to the same place, but don't you wanna enjoy the ride?

Why is the 2g upgrade path the way it is (turbo is #12 out of 12 of stage 1)? He doesn't even have a boost gauge, BOV, or MBC (which can cost $500 if he goes for the bling, $100 if he goes a bit on the cheap side). Stock airbox, UICP, exhaust, 2g mani. Bone stock. Not sure if his car has the normal maintenance taken care of, either. Anyway, that's my $0.02.

 

[SBstar]

I'm in total awe that this thread has survived.

You can run the evo 3 but I would get a boost controller and run it lower than stock boost pressure. My recommendation for you would be to but a set of 660cc injectors, an SAFC2, a manual boost controller, and a fuel pump upgrade (walbro 190, or 255lph with adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Only with this setup can you safely run and really have fun with that turbo. I know a evo316g flows a lot more air than you stock turbo even in low boost situations so my recommendation would be for you to atleast rewire your fuel pump and get an SAFC.

There is no way to "run lower then stock boost" an MBC can only raise boost pressure, the stock wastegate is somewhere around 10-11 psi thats as low as you can run (without taking the arm off the wastegate flapper of course).

Check my profile... I'm running a completley bone stock fuel set up and a E316g on 14 psi. of boost all day every day, and have been for about 6+ months now. I'm still running rich as sh!t too. Get a logger though, just because I'm running 14 lbs. doesn't mean that you'll be able to (who knows, maybe your car can get away with 15 lbs.)

Don't believe the hype. You'll be totally fine running this set up... except for that damn boost gremlin, he's gonna be pissed that you're still on the stocker fuel system.

This is the truth, you can run an EvoIII 16g at stock boost, and perhaps even a touch above. Run stock wastegate pressure if you don't have a logger, or even if you do but you don't understand what you're seeing.

Of course a large portion of the above is true, you will see much more dramatic power gains if you do the "proper supporting mods". As far as the OP's question about the fmic upgrade, even your T-25 can heatsoak the smic if you're driving spirited all the time. Take it easy on the gas pedal and it'll be fine.

Now I'll add my own advice, although what I posted above is true, I wouldn't suggest starting out your modding experience by getting a new larger turbo. Obviously the first thing I suggest doing is all the maintenance the car may need, second get yourself a logger, third a boost gauge. From there an exhaust is a good step and so-on. It's all laid out fairly well in the upgrade path on this website.

I'll also add that this has been covered many many times, I suggest falling in love with the "Search" function of this website, also finding your way over to www.vfaq.com of course. There is a plethora of information on this site, sometimes it just takes a while to sort the good from the bad.

 

[syrushcw]

When I got my GSX the 2nd owner said it was stock except for the intake we pulled the engine it had a 16g I'm pretty sure everything else was stock maybe upgrade injectors but that was it. Had no gauges and I don't think it was ever tuned but it was a fun drive

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

Why is the 2g upgrade path the way it is (turbo is #12 out of 12 of stage 1)? He doesn't even have a boost gauge, BOV, or MBC (which can cost $500 if he goes for the bling, $100 if he goes a bit on the cheap side). Stock airbox, UICP, exhaust, 2g mani. Bone stock. Not sure if his car has the normal maintenance taken care of, either. Anyway, that's my $0.02.

Agreed that slapping a larger turbo on shouldn't be the VERY first thing you do. By all means, if you don't have a boost gauge or haven't changed the timing belt (or don't know when the last time it was done) then don't even think about spending money on other go fast goodies. That's working backwards.

But... if you've got those things already taken care of and you come across a "good deal" on a E316g, don't let not having all the supporting mods stop you from getting that turbo. You can run that turbo, at stock boost levels, and not hurt anything while getting better performance then your T25.

 

[kenamond]

Agreed that slapping a larger turbo on shouldn't be the VERY first thing you do. By all means, if you don't have a boost gauge or haven't changed the timing belt (or don't know when the last time it was done) then don't even think about spending money on other go fast goodies. That's working backwards.

But... if you've got those things already taken care of and you come across a "good deal" on a E316g, don't let not having all the supporting mods stop you from getting that turbo. You can run that turbo, at stock boost levels, and not hurt anything while getting better performance then your T25.

My point is that with a bone stock setup, he'd get more performance out of that $500 on the T25 than a e3b16g by upgrading the other parts that are *prerequisites* for a turbo upgrade. Sure, he can run that turbo on an otherwise stock setup, but the restrictions in the intake and exhaust will keep the upgraded turbo from performing *a lot*. I'd spend the $500 on other parts before the turbo if I were in his shoes. If he's got $900 in his pocket and can do all the other basic but important mods along with the turbo, then take up the good deal on the turbo/O2 housing. Otherwise, spend the money on other things.

 

[SBstar]

And that's why I said what I did