Replacing my Clutch master cylinder.. anyone done it?

[BoostInsideTSi]

On my 2g talon, I had an ACT 2100 clutch put in a few months ago, and they guy putting it in noticed there is a tear on the rubber boot of the master cylinder. The rubber peice is right on the firewall (inside the car),and there is some clutch fluid coming out. I've noticed a VERY MUSHY and inconsistent pedal feeling since buying the car a few years ago. Frankly, the only thing worse than driving a manual is driving a manual with a mushy clutch. Anyhow, he said that with this being torn open, it is pushing air in with the clutch fluid, thus causing my problem. I went ahead and bought a used, but in perfect condition clutch master cylinder, and I am ready to install. Has anyone reading this performed this before, and if so, can you give me some pointers / intstructions for the removal / install of this peice? Thanks a lot.
Mike

 

[Nerfherder]

I did it a couple of weeks ago. It was easy.

1. Jack car up.
2. Put a bucket underneath the slave cylinder on the tranny and remove the bleeder screw, letting all the fluid drain out of the system. Put the bleeder screw back in when empty.
3. Remove the pin holding the actuator rod to the clutch pedal.
4. Remove brake lines on the master cylinder under the hood.
5. Remove the nut screwed on to the stud portruding through the master cylinder , underneath the hood. This takes a swivel with a socket on the end. It's impossible to reach, otherwise.
6. Remove the bolt from the master cylinder underneatch the dash, on the firewall.
7. Pull the master cylinder out and replace old unit in reverse order.
8. Fill resevoir until level stays constant.
9. You either need a friend, a stick of wood cut to length, or a self-bleeder kit from here.
10. Leaving lid off of the resevoir, pull the clutch pedal off the floor (if it's on the floor) and start pumping it a couple of times. Hold it on the floor after pumping a few times and have your friend loosen the bleeder for a second until the air comes out. Have him tighten it back down and you can let off on the pedal and start the process over until no more air comes out of the bleeder screw. BE SURE TO KEEP THE RESEVOIR FULL.

IF you cut a piece of wood to fit from the clutch pedal position at full engagement to the front seat, you can jam it in there to hold the pedal down when you bleed it.

The easiest way to bleed if with a self-bleeder kit. Instructions are included with it when you buy it.

11. Adjustment of the clutch pedal takes some trial-and-error. I started at midpoint on the adjustment. located on the master cylinder actuator rod. After bleeding, I took it for a drive and adjusted it from there. Where you want your clutch to engage is up to you. The "longer" you make the actuator rod, the closer the clutch engages at the top of the pedal travel. If you make it too "long," the clutch will slip.

LEt us know if you have any questions.

 

[Defiant]

http://www.plymouthlaser.com/masterc.htm