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Removing the Head, when do I remove the timing belt?

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4gfun

Supporting VIP
2,009
55
Dec 10, 2007
Ask Me, Virginia
I have a pretty good writeup for removing the head on a 1g.

However, the writeup does not mention what step in the process a good time to remove the timing belt would be.

When should I remove the timing belt in the process?

Also, what is the easiest way to remove the timing belt without cutting it off?

Thanks
 
Pull the spark plugs, find TDC #1 cyl, place a long screw driver or 1/4 extention in the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine appox 90*, so all the pistons are at mid stroke.

Now remove the time belt, undo the auto tenstioner, and tenstioner pulley and idler pulleys, and slip the belt off.
 
Thank you very much. Is it ok to do that anywhere in the process of removing the head?

Below is the writeup that I got from a poster on this site. I have amended it a bit to make it cleaner and will continue to modify it. Yes, I know the numbers and format is screwed up. I am still amending.

00) Jack front of car up.
0) Drain coolant.
1) REMOVE battery & it's foundation.
4) Pull the radiator (4 easy bolts right on top) & a couple of fan connectors.
5) Remove driver's side motor mount. (Put jack under the oil pan , use slight pressure to not damage the pan and use a piece of wood (2 x 4) to distribute the load) ***clarifying how to do this***
6) Power steering pump - remove & cap line to reservoir & flip pump to firewall with pressure line still connected to pump. ***clarifying what is meant by this***
7) Remove Bolt from Power steering pump bracket to head lifting eye. ***ehhh, For both of these steps, is it ok to just remove the power steering pump as if I was replacing it? I replaced a power steering pump on my last DSM with no issues***clarifying what is meant by this***
8) Remove driver's side front tire & the shields behind it for access to lower crankshaft area.
9) Loosen the bolts on the water pump pulley and the crank pulley. ***Researching to see if this is necessary?***

10) Loosen the alternator and remove the belt.

11) Remove all Timing belt covers & all it's hidden fasteners

12) Remove the bolts from all the pulleys on the front case except the rear small pulley that drives the oil pump. ***Why not just loosen and remove...if necessary at all***

13) Temporarily reinstall battery - tap starter & note rotation of crank pulley nut - place a GOOD 1/2 drive breaker bar inside crank pulley nut & push it against a solid surface (motor mount or chassis member) MAKE SURE YOUR FINGERS ARE CLEAR - have partner tap starter when you are clear - NOTE - I did this without placing bar against a solid surface before tapping starter & the impact from when the starter spun & the bar slapped something solid wrung off a 1/2 breaker bar I'd had for 10 years - it can cut your fingers off - be careful - an alternate method is to use a pipe wrench turned in the CORRECT manner & brace it against the upper motor mount prior to hitting the starter - it will spin the crank pulley nut off very easily - just be careful.
14) Remove the 2 bolts at the exhaust flange downpipe downstream of The turbo
15) Remove the intake hose
16) Disconnect the thermostat housing from the head (without disconnecting any hoses or sensors). Disconnect the thermostat housing (with all the hoses attached) by unbolting the three bolts and sliding it off the studs.It's also faster if you unbolt the whole thermostat housing from the head (rather than disconnecting the water hoses and sensors).
17) Disconnect the CPS, TPS, ISC, IS,
18) Remove the fuel injectors.
19) Remove the Spark plug wires.
20) Disconnect throttle cable and cruise control cables (just snap out of their holders)
21) Start unplugging the wiring harness that goes across the intake (in *black* square covering) it plugs into the o2 sensor, water neck, injectors, throttle position sensor, idle control motor, closed throttle switch, knock sensor, ac compressor, and ignition coils and igniters (should already be unplugged from previous steps) Remove transistor connection.
22) Remove both fuel lines and fuel feed line from the fuel rail. Be ready with a rag.
23) Also remove the brace along the back of the engine block that holds up the intake. If you cant get it off, at least remove the Bolts that are on the INTAKE, if the ones on the block are pulled out, you still will have a bi*** of a time removing the head. It's much easier to get to the couple of bolts on the intake manifold bracket from the passenger side.
24) Don't take the exhaust manifold off either, just unbolt the turbo (4 bolts) (unbolt just the turbo from the ex-man). Remove the bolts and nut that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold
25) Disconnect the coolant line from the firewall to the water neck
26) Disconnect the coolant feed line and return line from the turbo (disconnect the big line fed from the hard coolant crossover pipe at the turbo, disconnect the small line at the rubber hose fed from the water neck, disconnect the coolant to oil cooler line on the water neck, disconnect oil return line from the turbo to the oil pan, but you can probably leave the turbo oil feed line connected to the turbo .
27) Remove valve cover and then remove the bolts that hold the head on. Make sure you untorque them in small steps and in the opposite order of the torque down procedure. This is best done with a 10MM 1/2inch drive IMPACT SOCKET. The Hex's in the middle are freeze plugs, they stay in. The head is sealed really well, and is stuck on the gasket.

4 6 9 7 1
2 8 10 5 3
front of car.

**This SHOULD be everything that holds the head on. Now is the time to do a once over check of everything. Look on all 4 sides of the head for anything that isn't unhooked and take appropriate unhooking measures. **
28) Pull head by putting a crowbar thru the exhaust manifold webs & pulling down - it levered the head loose from gasket stiction quite easily. Then go from end to end of head & place wooden blocks under each end until head was almost clear of Turbo Stud. Lay a fender cover over where the radiator is, leaned over the front & pick it up.
29) Make sure to set the cylinder head on a piece of wood or cardboard or something.
30) Drain oil and filter.
 
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Fairly simple to do even the manual shows how to do the timing belt, and vfaq. No need to cut the belt unless your getting a new one but you might as well as cheap insurance down the road, change pulleys and get oem tensioner, and water pump is a good idea too. Remember to get the oil pump sprocket nut on to torque specs, if not it can come loose.
 
Thanks, just want to make sure that I don't take the timing belt off between/before/after the right step.

I don't want to do it too early or late. The above process doesn't show when to take the timing belt off.

Thoughts?

Thanks

Fairly simple to do even the manual shows how to do the timing belt, and vfaq. No need to cut the belt unless your getting a new one but you might as well as cheap insurance down the road, change pulleys and get oem tensioner, and water pump is a good idea too. Remember to get the oil pump sprocket nut on to torque specs, if not it can come loose.
 
I forgot my step i just loosened up the tensioner and took it off.

This.I did this too on my first head job.Worked like a charm.

I thought it was gonna be hard too.But once you get in there and do it,its pretty straight forward.
 
I am completely confused. I want to know if I can remove the timing belt before performing the above procedure without interfering with that procedure?

:confused:
 
I know that you guys are only trying to help and you have certainly made my removing the timing belt easier...but let me rephrase what I am asking.

In post #3, I described the process by which I plan to remove the cylinder head.

Does it matter when I remove the timing belt during that process?

Should it be step 1, step 5, step 22 maybe? If you don't have the answer, that is ok. I certainly don't know.

Thank you very much. :)



Everybody might have a different way of doing it..

But its that simple,remove the tensioner,the belt should slip right off.
 
I know that you guys are only trying to help and you have certainly made my removing the timing belt easier...but let me rephrase what I am asking.

In post #3, I described the process by which I plan to remove the cylinder head.

Does it matter when I remove the timing belt?

Should it be step 1, step 5, step 22 maybe?

Thank you very much. :)

To make it simple.

Remove step 12 Replace with procedure in post #2.

Also, use an impact wrench instead of the method in #13 if you can, much easier.
 
Any time after step 22 and you will be fine.

If you do it the way I explained in post 2, if any thing moves, cams, or crank, you lessen the chance for bent valves...
 
Any time after step 22 and you will be fine.

If you do it the way I explained in post 2, if any thing moves, cams, or crank, you lessen the chance for bent valves...

True if you have it at#1 tdc before taking the belt off, may save you some time later.Cause you have to have it at tdc to put belt on.So mise well get that part out of the way first.
 
I agree with you on step #13. I have done that method on other vehicles and if I had an impact I would have done it that way too.

What are your feelings on removing the belt after step 22 vs step 12?


So you do agree with the other guys on doing it after step 22? Not trying to 2nd guess anyone here but there are 2 different opinions.

I'll just go with the masses and do it after Step 22 if I don't hear back from you.

Thanks everyone!
To make it simple.

Remove step 12 Replace with procedure in post #2.

Also, use an impact wrench instead of the method in #13 if you can, much easier.
 
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Also, can anyone tell me what is meant by the Power Steering Pump move/removal in steps 6&7?

The instructions confuse me.

Thanks

I just removed the pump. I didn't understand it.
 
Also, can anyone tell me what is meant by the Power Steering Pump move/removal in steps 6&7?

The instructions confuse me.

Thanks

I just removed the pump. I didn't understand it.

you leave the pressure hose on so u don't have to mess with refilling anything. I leave all hoses on and just move it out the way. No harm in pulling it off just some extra work putting it back together.
 
you leave the pressure hose on so u don't have to mess with refilling anything. I leave all hoses on and just move it out the way. No harm in pulling it off just some extra work putting it back together.

Thanks for the translation. I missed this. I revamped the above instructions a little bit and will post them when done one day.
 
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