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Removal of trunk lock

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Allamricn

15+ Year Contributor
53
0
Jan 30, 2008
Aurora, Illinois
I'm all excited about my new 98 GSX which I bought the other day, problem is that I didn't check it out ALL the way and found out today that the only key I received with the vehicle doesn't work in the trunk. It works with the ignition AND the glove box, so I don't believe all I got was a Valet key. I picked up some blanks at the dealership today, had them made, they work fine BUT for the trunk, so I am not sure what to do.

I assume I am going to have to pull the lock assembly, but I searched and really didn't find any threads on how to remove it.

Any help?

Also, checked the VIN and my car does have the keyless remote feature, and I have read the threads on how to program it once I get the right remote, but does the remote work with the trunk?

Thanks!
 
The hatch isn't remote operate, other than the cable at the driver's seat where the gas flap lever is.
Try giving the tumblers some WD-40; also, you may need to press down slightly on the hatch to remove the tension from the latch. To test that part, try using the key while the hatch is open. It could just be seized up from the prior owner never using the key, but only opening it by using the release lever.
If you need to remove the lock, you'll need to pull the plastic from the trunk area, and there's a spring clip that holds the tumbler assembly in place.
 
Remote doesn't work with the liftgate. Previous owner may have replaced the lock cylinder. To access remove rear end trim, rear combination light, lock cylinder retainer, lock cylinder. If this doesn't work there are 2 small circle covers on the inside which cover the liftgate latch bolt nuts. Remove the nuts and you may be able to wiggle the latch assembly free of the bolts to raise the liftgate.
 
I kinda have the same prob i try and open the trunk eith the key and some times it works and others the key wont trun at all. I am looking that up as we speak LOL
 
I kinda have the same prob i try and open the trunk eith the key and some times it works and others the key wont trun at all. I am looking that up as we speak LOL
 
I kinda have the same prob i try and open the trunk eith the key and some times it works and others the key wont trun at all. I am looking that up as we speak LOL
Just get a key maker to make you a new key. Not a regrind but give him the code on ANY of the locks I just did this and its great no issues at all its smooth and works everytime. I had this exact issue and thats why I had the key made

EDIT: Just reread. Did you have them make a copy or get get the lock code and make it off that?
I kinda have the same prob i try and open the trunk eith the key and some times it works and others the key wont trun at all. I am looking that up as we speak LOL
This will fix your problem though.
 
Just get a key maker to make you a new key. Not a regrind but give him the code on ANY of the locks I just did this and its great no issues at all its smooth and works everytime. I had this exact issue and thats why I had the key made

EDIT: Just reread. Did you have them make a copy or get get the lock code and make it off that?
This will fix your problem though.
I have the same prob with the original key and a recut key
 
Chump, where do you find the lock number for the key at? Thx! My trunk lock refuses to turn, the doors are ok, hit or miss.
 
I have the same prob with the original key and a recut key
Chump, where do you find the lock number for the key at? Thx! My trunk lock refuses to turn, the doors are ok, hit or miss.
Recut is not what I'm talking about. The original keys are usually too worn for that to work well. I went to my local locksmith got a recut and it didnt work. He then said we'll need the code for the lock, would you happen to have on on you? I said no but I'll go pop one out of the passenger side for you. Then I handed him the lock and he cut me a brand new key for $20 and all the locks suddenly work smoothly every single time. The code I believe was somewhere on the tumbler. Its the only text on the lock but your locksmith will know what to do once you hand him a lock from doors or trunk. I even asked to let me go back with him and watch how all that stuff works and he said sure and showed me how all the machines work. Real cool guy been doing it for like 15 years. I walked in with my key (which was a recut and he couldn't see my car) and he said ah a Mitsubishi key. I asked how the heck he knew that and he responded "I look at keys a lot". Anyways sorry for ramblinng just hand him a lock and say you need a new key for this code or something to that effect and you'll have a working key.
 
Last edited:
These days, your cylinders often need rebuild. I personally feel they were not adequately designed to prevent corrosion. I have rebuilt two sets of door locks. The tumblers get quite a bit of build-up and nearly fuse to the cylinder over time. Soaking them multiple times in pb blaster and diluted lime remover help make disassembly easier. Basic hand tools are used to dissemble and assemble. When rebuilding them, I label and number each pin so they go back into the correct orientation. During assembly, graphite or anti-seize is best for a lock cylinder. Greases and oils can cause build-up and cause binding in cold temperatures.
Here is a walk-through to disassemble the lock cylinder I have used as a guide:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-re-key-a-2g-door-lock.444448/
 
These days, your cylinders often need rebuild. I personally feel they were not adequately designed to prevent corrosion. I have rebuilt two sets of door locks. The tumblers get quite a bit of build-up and nearly fuse to the cylinder over time. Soaking them multiple times in pb blaster and diluted lime remover help make disassembly easier. Basic hand tools are used to dissemble and assemble. When rebuilding them, I label and number each pin so they go back into the correct orientation. During assembly, graphite or anti-seize is best for a lock cylinder. Greases and oils can cause build-up and cause binding in cold temperatures.
Here is a walk-through to disassemble the lock cylinder I have used as a guide:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-re-key-a-2g-door-lock.444448/
This varies on your location which can affect rust levels and general corrosion and such so based on where you are located, this may be necessary. Personally, mine haven't been rebuilt and they all work smoothly 190,000 miles later. Others such as Nate could have completely opposite experiences. So definitely something to consider.
 
Last edited:
Just get a key maker to make you a new key. Not a regrind but give him the code on ANY of the locks I just did this and its great no issues at all its smooth and works everytime. I had this exact issue and thats why I had the key made

EDIT: Just reread. Did you have them make a copy or get get the lock code and make it off that?
This will fix your problem though.
Thanks I'll have to try that
 
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