Trunk Lock is not working

[rishid]

Hi,

My trunk lock randomly stopped working over the last winter. I cannot turn the key left or right while it is in the lock. Also the trunk release does not work either.

Anyone have any idea what to do? I essentially have been unable to open the trunk for months.

Thank you.

RishiD

 

[Quicklynx]

Lubricate the lock and latch with some spray on graphite lubricant. See if that helps a bit.

 

[Locke]

Yeah, try to break it free with some lubricant first. Otherwise:

Check that nothing is physically stopping the mechanism from moving. If it's good, pull the lock cylinder out and disassemble it. Dont mix up or forget where the disc's go, putting them in in a different order (re-pinning) and it won't work with your key. Clean all the crap off the discs and the cylinder.

 

[Defiant]

How beaten to death is your key? Take the bottle opener, pocketknife, lighter, toenail clipper, remote lock fob, house key, garage key, diary key, lucky charm and picture frame containing image of girlfriend/dog/offshoot off from the ignition key and run it NAKED.
A real locksmith will be able to carve you a new key while understanding how much to allow for wear and tooth loss.

 

[ndsti]

Just take it apart and clean it with WD-40.

 

[Locke]

WD-40 is generally a no-no with door locks. Dirt and dust will stick to WD-40. If you use it to clean with, be sure to wipe it all free and dry. You should use a graphite, silicon, or PTFE based dry lube when lubricating locks.

 

[Defiant]

Eh, iffy on the "no WD-40 on locks" tale. Its carriers evaporate very quickly, and it is nearly a residue-free lubricant- it certainly leaves less behind than graphite does. Trouble with graphite is that it's usually over-used, and winds up being more crud than lube. WD-40's shortcoming is that it's almost too light a lubricant for locks. Also, its solvents may wash crud further into the workings instead of flushing them as you'd want. But it won't gum on its own.