2G Remaining life of my Turbo

[McBoosted]

Hi there. Recently got a 1997 eclipse gsx manual with 160k miles.

I inspected everything as advised in this forum, everything was good, except maybe the turbo.

Driving wise, this car is amazing, very quick, doesnt smoke, still gets good gas mileage.

Heres the thing: as advised, I checked the turbo for shaft play, the car was still warm, and there was definite play. It went in and out, and side to side. It didnt touch the housing from what I could tell when moving it side to side. The in and out play is enough to where I could produce a clicking noise from moving it in and out.

Driving wise the turbo does seem to spool up pretty darn loud, and the stock 2g bov is loud as well. I get almost a whistle noise while it spools, but the car still pulls!!

So my question: is the turbo getting ready to take a crap? How much longer can it last in this Condition while not losing power? If i do decide to fix this issue, what would be the best way to go? Keep in mind, Im im san jose california so I cant just throw a fat turbo on, it has to pass smog. So maybe get it rebuilt? Buy a used one? Advice welcome!

 

[jimsgsx]

Shop on the classifieds here or your local craigslist. If you love the way it runs now you should be able to find a stock turbo at a good price. What are your plans for this car in the long run?

 

[Dxc545]

160k is a lot of miles on the stock turbo. I'd be concerned about the amount of play you describe. You could always rebuild it or upgrade to a t28 which looks basically stock

 

[DSM1G90]

It's normal to have up down and side to side play since the shaft is "floating" in pressurized oil.

But, back and forth is a big "no-no" due to the thrust bearing is what keeps it from having that lateral play. oil will go past these worn bearings causing issues along with the wheel being chewed up in the front housing where you say you got that clicking sound.

You'll be soon experiencing oil consumption issues and smoke issues.

Turbo is due for an overhaul.

If you begin to experience these issues and can't do the overhaul promptly, undo the rod that attaches to the wastegate and wire the wastegate open. This disables the turbo, but don't get too crazy in doing hi speed takeoffs from the light while in this condition.

-DSM

 

[McBoosted]

What would be more cost efficient and smog passable but also reliable? Rebuild, buy new?

My plans for this car is a daily driver with some kick, so I cannot go crazy with mods since wont pass smog.

How much would it cost to rebuild?

And how much longer do you think this turbo can survive? Fyi theres no oil between it and the intake boot

 

[DSM1G90]

Rebuilds are cheaper than new ones .. by a goodly amount. Price of rebuilds highly varies due to shop quotes.

Can't give a time frame on "how much longer" since no two turbos are the same.

But, if that wheel is pinging against the frame, that's a new wheel replacement and frame right there.

Plus, every time it pings against the frame, small bits of metal from both the wheel and frame is being blown into the motor.

Something to think about.

This is why I recommend deactivating the turbo for the time being-to save your motor...and it shouldn't foul up the results in the sniff test.

 

[94GsxBoy]

You can find great deals here on the website. I would look into maybe doing a 16g turbo which is still considered a stock turbo, and definitely has alot more pick up and power for a daily driven car

 

[Dsmkauai]

The whine of death!! How much boost where you pushing thru it? Get a rebuild kit from gpop shop and get it balanced after and you should be good to go.

 

[JusMX141]

Noticeable play in any direction prompts a rebuild immediately before wheel damage occurs. Once one or both of the wheels are damaged, it's cheaper and easier to buy another turbo.