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2G Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing

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Big Bald

20+ Year Contributor
242
0
Oct 12, 2002
Hamden, Connecticut
I am getting a knocking noise from both sides in the rear. I jack the car up and see that the bushing is worn out on both sides. My question is, do i need to purchase a whole new lower arm for both sides of the rear or can i just press new ones in? I see where the bolt slides out so i am hoping this is a press on job......
 
You can burn out the rubber and then press out the sleeve and then install new bushings from ES or Prothane.

- Jtoby
 
Originally posted by jtmcinder
You can burn out the rubber and then press out the sleeve and then install new bushings from ES or Prothane.

- Jtoby

Burning them out with a torch will take a while..it'll stink too. Use a press if you have access to one.
 
Originally posted by dsm1kenobe
Burning them out with a torch will take a while..it'll stink too. Use a press if you have access to one.
The bolt holding the bushing is frozen (rusted?) to the sleeve inside the rubber bushing on my 99 GST. I've tryed heating it up and liquid wrench. Anyone got ideas on how to loosen it up?
 
This happened to my 97. It was fun. We went at it with heat, cold, air-chisels, threats, prayer, pleading, etc, and finally used a cut-off tool between the bushing and the frame, and replaced the arms. The fact that so many of the bolts rust-weld to the inner sleeves all over our cars is rather annoying. It really pays to take the car apart every spring or fall, clean the pieces (or replace them) and then put it back together with the correct amount of anti-seize. If you have upgraded bushings, you're probably doing this already, but other people living in the "salt-belt" should consider it. There's the secondary benefit of getting to know the suspension better. (Of course, there's also the secondary cost of your three-year-old getting to know some words that she isn't supposed to hear.)

- Jtoby

ps. explaining what happened to your wife by saying that your daughter "shouldn't have been in the effing garage in the first place" usually doesn't work; I tried that
 
Yeah- just press that beast out . . . I wouldn't recommend burning it out- will take a while and stinks like crazy (not to mention makes a big black mess)

As far as the bolt- try some PB Blast . . . stuff works great!
 
Um, if the bolt is stuck in the bushing, then the arm is still on the car. Have fun getting a press in there.

Or have I misunderstood luv2rally's problem?

- Jtoby
 
Originally posted by jtmcinder
Um, if the bolt is stuck in the bushing, then the arm is still on the car. Have fun getting a press in there.

Or have I misunderstood luv2rally's problem?

- Jtoby
Yes the arm is still in the car and the bolt is frozen inside the bushing sleeve - I can't turn it. Actually I'm only trying to adjust rear toe and that is the ecentric bolt/situation I'm talking about (the rubber bushing is ok). Since the bolt is frozen onto the sleeve, when I try to turn it, the entire rubber bushing trys to turn with it and of course the control arm won't let it turn since it's permanently attached.
 
That is exactly what went wrong on my car. (So, for those of you keeping score at home, we're talking about the rear toe arm on a 2G, not the lower lateral arm.) Sadly, we had to cut it out and replace the whole arm. Both of them, actually. Gag.

Be happy, however, that you detected this. I've spoken to several people who didn't realize that the bolt had seized to the sleeve. The problem was that the alignment monkeys just used a breaker bar to twist the bushing and then tightened the nut. This would get the car to produce a print-out that said the rear toe was in spec. However, as you might guess, two bumps down the road later, the car would be right back to where it was when it seized. Since this would usually be a ton of toe out (from lowering the car), they would shred the rear tires.

- Jtoby
 
Actually..the bushing i need is the one in the knuckle that connect to the Upper control Arm. If i get a press, will i be able to press that one out myself? I was told to use a hacksaw and chizzle...but that didn't sound right.
 
Originally posted by Big Bald
Actually..the bushing i need is the one in the knuckle that connect to the Upper control Arm. If i get a press, will i be able to press that one out myself? I was told to use a hacksaw and chizzle...but that didn't sound right.

I need these bushings too, did you find somewhere that sells them without buying the ENTIRE kit?

[edit]And to answer your question - it doesn't look like it'd be that hard to press out, I would definately heat it up a bit first though.
 
1) Yeah it can be pressed out . . . not that difficult actually.
2) Haven't found anyone that sells just THAT bushing. Called SATAN and they only sell the whole arm, not the bushing . . . :(

Good luck!
 
HOw much is the kit versus the whole arm? That is where the knocking noise is coming from. ANyone know the exact name of the bushing i am talking about?
 
Originally posted by tsunari
Yeah- just press that beast out . . . I wouldn't recommend burning it out- will take a while and stinks like crazy (not to mention makes a big black mess)

As far as the bolt- try some PB Blast . . . stuff works great!
What is this PB Blast (full name & maker) and where can I get it? Is it like Liquid Wrench or WD40?
 
Originally posted by luv2rallye
What is this PB Blast (full name & maker) and where can I get it? Is it like Liquid Wrench or WD40?

PB Blast is the full name. It's a spray lubricant like liquid wrench and WD-40. I saw it at PEP Boys the other day.
 
Originally posted by Big Bald
HOw much is the kit versus the whole arm? That is where the knocking noise is coming from. ANyone know the exact name of the bushing i am talking about?

A new rear knuckle is $130 if I remember correctly, Satan told me the same thing, that I have to buy a whole new knuckle. Energy Suspension bushing kit(full kit) is $160, $90 for just the rear control arm kit that I haven't been able to determine if it comes with the knuckle bushings(no responses from vendors). Prothane's full bushing kit is around $225, which I know comes with the knuckle bushings, but I haven't been able to source the knuckle bushings by themselves or even just a rear kit that comes with the knuckle bushings. Happy hunting!
 
PB Blast is a concentrated copolymer penetrant. It's manufactured by B'Laster/B.C.C.I. out of Cleveland, Ohio (800)858.6605

But I know all of that info is useless :p

Should be able to find it Autozone, O'Rileys (sp), PepBoys, maybe even WalMart . . . Comes in a white can with a yellow top.

http://www.blasterproducts.com/
 
I am being quoted $212.00 from satan for the knuckle. I have a question...If i undo the kuckle and necessary pieces..will i be able to just pull the axle out? I ask this because my spindle nut and axle seem to have becom one due to rust issues. I was quoted $550 in labor to replace the axle and wheel bearing. Its another $220 in labor to due the bushings. I figure i would come out cheaper if i just replace everything myself. The thing is that there are a few little pieces that will need to be replaced also. I will buy those if i know i do not need to dis-assemble them to remove the axle. All help in this matter is greatly appreciated.
 
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