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2G Rear AWD Lower Control Arm to Subframe Bolt

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shinzon

15+ Year Contributor
350
72
Sep 11, 2006
St. Petersburg, Florida
Oh my god, I've never had something fight me this much. I'm trying to remove my rear lower control arm from my '96.

Passenger side wasn't too bad, other than the idiot at Mitsubishi Engineering that decided putting the head of the bolt on the front end of the subframe was a great idea. Endless amounts of room at the rear, but if you try to slide the bolt out in it's factory configuration it hits the fuel tank. Had to lower the subframe to get the bolt to slide out.

Driver's side is a different story. I got the nut off, but the bolt has sized itself to the lower control arm bushing: won't bang out, and when you try and turn the bolt it tries to twists out the entire bushing.

Given the design and restricted access, I'm up a creek here it seems. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Did you try squirting any penetrant like PB Blaster and letting that sit for a day or so? Might be enough to break it free. Otherwise cut it out. Have had this happen before and that was the solution. Buy some Paul Volk rear lower control arms. Actually wait, I just realized I have might have my OEM rear lower control arms here somewhere since I put the Paul Volk's on last year, PM me if you need them and I won't charge you much. Don't get your hopes up, I still gotta look around for them :)
 
Did you try squirting any penetrant like PB Blaster and letting that sit for a day or so? Might be enough to break it free. Otherwise cut it out. Have had this happen before and that was the solution. Buy some Paul Volk rear lower control arms. Actually wait, I just realized I have might have my OEM rear lower control arms here somewhere since I put the Paul Volk's on last year, PM me if you need them and I won't charge you much. Don't get your hopes up, I still gotta look around for them :)

Yeah, I let PB Blast sit on all the joints overnight and it still won't budge. Heat seems like a poor idea given proximity to gas tank, so I was also thinking my only option left is cutting it. Going to be a bi*** to get an angle grinder anywhere near there so might just have to hack at it with a saws all...

I'll message you about the control arm.
 
If you're removing the arm to replace the ball joint you don't need to. I replaced the BJs with the arms on the car using a BJ press rented from advance auto. The BJs are the same as the upper fronts.
Otherwise if you're replacing the whole arm cut that sucker out
 
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