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Radio Delete Plate

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turboking15

15+ Year Contributor
352
7
Jul 16, 2007
columbus, Ohio
After putting in my roll cage i lost the a-pillar pod for my gauges so i had to find a new home for them and this is what i came up with. This goes where the radio and hvac controls used to be. I have all that stuff deleted so i dont have to find new homes for that stuff.

Here it is what do you think
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I have my wideband and boost gauge above this in the center vents. It has a 400 watt power inverter in the middle for my lap top and i moved the obd plug right next to it for easier access.
 

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After putting in my roll cage i lost the a-pillar pod for my gauges so i had to find a new home for them and this is what i came up with. This goes where the radio and hvac controls used to be. I have all that stuff deleted so i dont have to find new homes for that stuff.

Here it is what do you think
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I have my wideband and boost gauge above this in the center vents. It has a 400 watt power inverter in the middle for my lap top and i moved the obd plug right next to it for easier access.

Looks good, you must be building a full track car. Very clever combine everything in one place, props. :thumb:
 

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Looks good, you must be building a full track car. Very clever combine everything in one place, props. :thumb:

I wouldnt say track only but its only got the bare essentials. If it doesnt make the car run or drive it got eliminated.


Thanks for the comments.

As far as the plugs being in the way of the shifter we will see once i get it put in the car and ill go from there.
 
I really like this idea. Simple, gets the job done, and has everything you need right there.
 
The plate isnt hard to make. I just used some .25" acrylic from lowes, made a template from the original trim plate that goes there then went to town with my dremel.

I appreciate all the comments.

And with the other gauges in the heater vent. I like the look.

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Ill post more once i get it installed. The dash is out of the car right now getting the wiring harnesses thinned out, and for the roll cage installed.
 

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I had a very similar process a while back. I had a major electrical issue with the stock key wiring. as well as a number of accessories driven by toggles, so i made a similar plate.

Only I kept the heater controls and radio because I am a wuss.

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Right to left on the switches: ACC Gauges, IC and main fan override, High/ Low boost, Meth injection (2 settings).

I used the lightest radio that i had in the pile... gotta have some tunes you know.

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Also made the gauge plate for the top, oil psi, AFR, Boost. + warning lights for Boost, Oil Psi, Water Temp, Meth level & stages.
Sorry for the crappy upside down pics... my phone does that for some reason.

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again, pic is flipped. One toggle is Ignition/Fuel (+essentials, Dash -ect) the other is all accessories. radio, lights, wipers, you know.
button is obviously the starter, but it also cuts the non essential circuits just like the factory key.


Hope these crappy pics are not thread jackin, i just figured that i would share my similar mod. I love the relocation of the OBD port. I am seriously considering that. I have my power inverter in the glove box, that works well enough for me.

I guess i have to take some pics with a real camera.
 

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Update for installed pics. Still have to mount the power inverter.
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Damn it I was gonna use a T-handle shifter, but now it's less original LOL. Love the setup man.

Do it. I did this in an old neon of mine just because my dad had one laying around the shop. I loved the way it shifted and it felt like it gave a little more control so now that is one of the first things i do to all stick shift cars i get.
 
The plate isnt hard to make. I just used some .25" acrylic from lowes, made a template from the original trim plate that goes there then went to town with my dremel.

I appreciate all the comments.

And with the other gauges in the heater vent. I like the look.


Ill post more once i get it installed. The dash is out of the car right now getting the wiring harnesses thinned out, and for the roll cage installed.

How did you mount the hazard light and rear defroster switches to your plate?
 
what is the outlet for, if what it appears to be built for the track anyway? :confused:
 
I had a very similar process a while back. I had a major electrical issue with the stock key wiring. as well as a number of accessories driven by toggles, so i made a similar plate.

Only I kept the heater controls and radio because I am a wuss.


I used the lightest radio that i had in the pile... gotta have some tunes you know.
lights for Boost, Oil Psi, Water Temp, Meth level & stages.
Sorry for the crappy upside down pics... my phone does that for some reason.

again, pic is flipped. One toggle is Ignition/Fuel (+essentials, Dash -ect) the other is all accessories. radio, lights, wipers, you know.
button is obviously the starter, but it also cuts the non essential circuits just like the factory key.


Hope these crappy pics are not thread jackin, i just figured that i would share my similar mod. I love the relocation of the OBD port. I am seriously considering that. I have my power inverter in the glove box, that works well enough for me.

I guess i have to take some pics with a real camera.

Are you right hand drive??????

Edit: sorry, I just realized that's what you meant by upside down pics
 
Love it but don't care for the outlet plugs. ROFL
 
How did you mount the hazard light and rear defroster switches to your plate?

The upper piece is an aluminum plate from a vendor that i got used so it has the threaded parts welded to the back for those, but i may make one from acrylic to get rid of the unused wiper button. When / If i do that i will probably stack some small acrylic pieces to get the right height and drill / tap them.

what is the outlet for, if what it appears to be built for the track anyway? :confused:

So i can plug my laptop in and not have to worry about it. The battery on my lap top doesnt have the best life any more.

And its not JUST a track car ;)
 
I had a very similar process a while back. I had a major electrical issue with the stock key wiring. as well as a number of accessories driven by toggles, so i made a similar plate.

Only I kept the heater controls and radio because I am a wuss.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Right to left on the switches: ACC Gauges, IC and main fan override, High/ Low boost, Meth injection (2 settings).

I used the lightest radio that i had in the pile... gotta have some tunes you know.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Also made the gauge plate for the top, oil psi, AFR, Boost. + warning lights for Boost, Oil Psi, Water Temp, Meth level & stages.
Sorry for the crappy upside down pics... my phone does that for some reason.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

again, pic is flipped. One toggle is Ignition/Fuel (+essentials, Dash -ect) the other is all accessories. radio, lights, wipers, you know.
button is obviously the starter, but it also cuts the non essential circuits just like the factory key.


Hope these crappy pics are not thread jackin, i just figured that i would share my similar mod. I love the relocation of the OBD port. I am seriously considering that. I have my power inverter in the glove box, that works well enough for me.

I guess i have to take some pics with a real camera.
These backwards pictures make my brain hurt.:cry:



To the OP awesome job!
 

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I've got two questions. 1) Where do you get the acrylic, and what is it actually called? I couldn't find it at Lowe's the other day. And 2) how hard was it to move the OBD port?
 
The brand is optix and I got it at lowes. Just go in there and ask them for some plexiglass.

Moving the OBD2 port wasnt too bad, i had the dash harness out of the car for a wire tuck so it wasnt too bad. Just label each side of the wires you cut so you know what wires go together then extend them. I also have a couple wires removed from the obd plug so i only had 7 or 8 wires to extend. I may also be a bit biased as this was infinatley easier than extending 34 wires to move my fuse box under the dash inside the car. LOL

Also it is a 400 watt inverter.
 
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