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Radiator To Manifold Clearance

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funguy

15+ Year Contributor
125
0
Sep 29, 2004
Rickshaw,
Hey guys,

I am putting my car back together after a long and awaited downtime. I have just put in punishment racing gt35r kit on, and I put in a brand new KOYO rad in it.

I had a little trouble getting it in at first because of the fan mounts. I filed one of the mounts down for clearance to the Exhaust Manifold. My question is how much clearance is needed before damage occurs to the radiator from engine movement.

is 3/4inch sufficient? I can file down the radiator fan mount about another 1/4 inch or so maybe. I also have prothane mounts on all 4 mounts limit motor movement.

Plus, since I have all these new cooling goodies, big B&M oil cooler, 180 thermostat, and huge radiator. Is a single 14" fan sufficient? My manifold is not wrapped, and i don't plan to. Although I have wrapped the turbocharger, o2 housing and downpipe.
 
this is what i'm talking about if you guys were wondering.

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i have filed down the fan mount about another 1/8 inch or so. So its now closer to the welds.
 

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You'll be fine. You won't have any issue with rubbing. But I'm actually concerned with the clearance between the runner and the upper coolant hose. Have any pictures of that.
 
Agreed, when I had a DNP, I bought this nifty bendy hose from autozone and it fixed it right away. The OEM one (even with heat wrap on the header and hose) it was burning through.

<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/2/0/1/0/6/IMG_2294RESIZED.JPG" alt="IMG_2294RESIZED" />

I'm still amazed that the turbo is pushed that far out, though, Look at the pic I just posted, you've got a solid 8-10" there utnil you hit the radiator.
 
I'm still amazed that the turbo is pushed that far out, though, Look at the pic I just posted, you've got a solid 8-10" there utnil you hit the radiator.

Agreed, your setup seems to be much farther out than most, maybe its because of your wild tubular set-up or something else. I would try to get as much clearance as I could but I would say an inch is sufficient.
 
You'll be fine. You won't have any issue with rubbing. But I'm actually concerned with the clearance between the runner and the upper coolant hose. Have any pictures of that.

Great! I don't yet, but I have modified the upper rad hose a little more to get it away from the runner. I only have about 1/4" now. I think the heat wrap will still burn, however, I've wrapped it mutiple layers where its close to the runner.

I still need to get fire resistant the orange sheathing for my oil inlet line to the turbo.

This turbo setup i'm running is a punishment racing GT35r KIT. Looks like Flash has the same kit.
 
Here are a few more pics you guys have requested.

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Damn that manifold is big. I was looking for pics of that kit mounted and that might have strayed me away from it. Not a fan of that close of tollerences.
 
I think the added thickness of the koyo radiator makes the fitment even tighter, from the looks of it you should be fine though. Let us know when you get this bad boy finished up :thumb:



Agreed, when I had a DNP, I bought this nifty bendy hose from autozone and it fixed it right away. The OEM one (even with heat wrap on the header and hose) it was burning through.

<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/2/0/1/0/6/IMG_2294RESIZED.JPG" alt="IMG_2294RESIZED" />

I'm still amazed that the turbo is pushed that far out, though, Look at the pic I just posted, you've got a solid 8-10" there utnil you hit the radiator.


There's a big difference between the small framed mitsu turbo's and squeezing a t3 gt35r with a 4 bolt 3" exhaust housing and an s cover in there :p
 
I definately let you guys know how it goes. I've been watching another eclipse with a gt35r on the dyno, and the motor torques really damn good. Cross fingers my rad doesn't get squished.
 
Hey guys, update on the situation. I have gotten the vehicle to pass smog/aircare sniffer test with my new setup. Bc280's and gt35r punishment racing setup, HURRAH! No problem with the motor hitting the radiator with the prothane mounts and back to back dyno pulls

Got on a awd mustang dyno to tune. Ran into a few problems, over running the stock 2g mas ( took side honey combs out), torn diaphragm on a greddy type RS bov, and a snow water injection kit that was not injecting any methanol.

End of the day ended up with a peak 389awhp on 94 pump gas and dsmlink. So I should be able to pump out a significant extra amount of power once I fix another few things.
 
It looks like you'll be fine on clearance, mainly because of the prothane's ability to keep the motor still. Even on launches, since i got my prothanes the motor barely moves. But now everythign on the interior is falling apart from vibration :(

Setup looks good to me though. The top view shots make it look a lot worse than what you see on the side view pics. Can't wait to hear what you pump out after geting the bugs worked out!
 
WOW!...WTF

nice set up :thumb:

u should be fine on clearance...its really tight but i think u can pull it off like that...the only thing i would recommend doing is to replace the radiator hose...that close it will melt...get a flexible hose or replace it with a SS pipe

:talon:
 
Hey guys, update on the situation. I have gotten the vehicle to pass smog/aircare sniffer test with my new setup. Bc280's and gt35r punishment racing setup, HURRAH!

How? Running cats or get some help from a friend?
 
nope, i just modified the stock dp flange to fit the o2 housing. bolted it up with stock cat.

anybody else running a similar setup and dsmlink and what are your power output levels @ different levels? i was hoping to actually get more power than i currently am with the boost set @ about 25psi.
 
why do all the aluminum rads come with the top tube centered? Wouldn't it be better to have it off to the one side away from the manifold? Maybe it would affect the heat transfer too much?
 
looks good. Im going to have a bitchin' time fitting my setup in.. i can see it now. O well not like i had much room with my b swapped turbo'd crx, i fit 10lbs of shit in a 5lb bag under the hood of that car. I had closer clearance with a half rad ;)

i would have gotten that manifold coated or wrapped.
 
why do all the aluminum rads come with the top tube centered? Wouldn't it be better to have it off to the one side away from the manifold? Maybe it would affect the heat transfer too much?

Because they're meant to be "stock" replacement items so they can bolt right in without modification. I think you can put a 1g radiator in a 2g if you want the top tube further towards the passenger side.
 
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