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Turbonetics cast manifold = T4 compressor clearance issues.

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karbon

15+ Year Contributor
906
4
Feb 23, 2004
Akron, Ohio
I got a Turbonetics cast T3/T4 manifold to replace my SFP that has welds so cracked you can see daylight through them. I got the manifold on, tried to bolt the turbo to it and discovered that the compressor housing is contacting the block with a good bit of room to go :mad:

Now, since that little tab on the compressor housing is what's making contact, can I somehow rotate the compressor side a little so that doesn't happen and if so, how would I go about doing this? Otherwise, what do I do about this little problem? Also, it seems as if my exhaust is too "long" for the turbo to go where it needs to be. The turbo sits about an inch and a half forward of where it needs to go. To get it to where I could start bolting it on, I had to disconnect my exhaust and I guess I'll end up doing some clever stuff with the hangers or something :confused:

Thanks for any advice given. This problem is depressing.
 

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You must have a Garrett turbo... they have clearence issues with the turbonetics cast manifold. You need to buy a flange used to make a header and throw that in-between the head and the manifold as a spacer. I have a tubonetics turbo (S cover) with the same manifold and I have over a ince of clearence :p.
Here is a link to get the flange/spacer:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/flangesandgaskets.htm

Sorry had to rub it in... Lok at all the room I have:
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Yes you can turn the Compressor housing ....just unloosen the bolt's that hold the compressor housing on and it should be able to spin .....are you going to be using that water line ?
 
I had this same issue when I used to have a t04s 60-1 and it just wouldnt fit, I ended up selling the turbonetics manifold and picked up a DNP manifold.
 
The reason I know about this problem is because a friend of mine used this manifold with a Garrett 60-1. He did exactly what I have stated above (used a header flange as a spacer) and it cleared perfectly.
 
Thanks for the quick responses. I was hoping it'd only be a matter of rotating the compressor, but I'll definitely be looking into a spacer. Come to think of it, I can chop the old T3 flange off my trashed manifold. Hopefully that will provide enough clearance.
 
I installed my turbonetics manifold and garrett 60-1 .70a/r S cover last january, I made a thread asking if it will fit on stock radiator fans and i had many responses that it wont. I spend over $100 in slim fans and the day i installed everything i found out that The turbonetics manifod and the stock fans will fit and i didnt have to dent the water pipe.
 

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I installed my turbonetics manifold and garrett 60-1 .70a/r S cover last january, I made a thread asking if it will fit on stock radiator fans and i had many responses that it wont. I spend over $100 in slim fans and the day i installed everything i found out that The turbonetics manifod and the stock fans will fit and i didnt have to dent the water pipe.

It doesn't look like you went with any kind of coating on your manifold. How did it hold up against rust? Turbonetics claims there's some sort of rust resistant coating on there and I've seen pictures of people's months-old manifolds and they still look great. I opted to not coat mine because I want it on NOW and anything's better than a manifold with huge cracks.
 
You must have a Garrett turbo... they have clearence issues with the turbonetics cast manifold. You need to buy a flange used to make a header and throw that in-between the head and the manifold as a spacer.


When doing this, do the stock studs reach? I just want to know what im getting into if I get this manifold and go with a Garrett turbo. :thumb:
 
With the setup you have, I would go with a GM MAF or Speed Density setup.

Actually thats what I am going to (HKS VPC/GCC), and when I get the money the DSMLink to support and tune it.

I have DSMLink...
I dont see any reason to go to all that when I can retain the reliability of a stock style MAS. The EVO MAS is supposed to be good to about 62 lbs/min and that is about the most I will ever see out of this turbo.
BTW I just sold a VPC/GCC setup:thumb: Good system but old technology.
 
I am not sure about that however you can buy longer studs at ACE Hardware for about $1 each. They are easy to get and local.

Do you happen to remember the thread pitch and diameter? I just found out that 3/8" coarse threads don't fit past the tapered part, and I don't have a bolt in my arsenal that will fit the hole at the moment.

Edit: Never mind. Went to the hardware store and guessed correctly. It's an M10 bolt with 1.25 thread pitch apparently.
 
It doesn't look like you went with any kind of coating on your manifold. How did it hold up against rust? Turbonetics claims there's some sort of rust resistant coating on there and I've seen pictures of people's months-old manifolds and they still look great. I opted to not coat mine because I want it on NOW and anything's better than a manifold with huge cracks.

I bought my manifold on ebay, it was used and came with that pep boys high heat paint, it didnt last 2 minutes on it but i will take the manifold off for a ceramic coating soon.
 
Well may be to late but to the OP, what T3 turbine housing are you running (4 bolt or 5 bolt)? My guess is the 4 bolt housing & thats why your having clearance issues. The Tnetics mani was designed to work/fit the 5 bolt T3 housing & tuck it in nice & tight against the block to have more room for the external WG out front. Problem with the 4 bolt housing is the housing itself sits further back in reference to the inlet flange, so you end up with block clearance issues. What most do is either run a head to mani spacer like posted above or you can usually also run a spacer between the mani & turbine inlet. Since the turbo is actually angled away from the motor, this small drop with a spacer is usually enough to solve the clearance issues.
 

Yeah I've got the stinking 4 bolt housing and the clearance is REALLY tight. I hacked the 1/2" thick T3 flange off my old manifold to use as a spacer, and it's going to take another 1/8" or so to clear the block. Luckily I have a nice thick SS gasket that should allow me enough clearance. We'll see.
 
My goal was to remove the restriction of the MAF and still have precise tunability, I contemplated the GM MAF, but I already had a VPC, plus DSMLink confirmed that it will be compatibale.

People are trapping high 130's on the stock/evo maf i dont think its worth all that money to swtich over.
 
Edit: I've decided to use the flange to the head as a spacer after an afternoon of hard work. Obviously this is going to require longer studs which I'm just going to have to find.
 
For information purpose, I did this this week and found the longer CAS stud on the 1G head to be perfect. I had a few blown/rebuildable heads which I stole them from and ordered the remaining from Mitsubishi at $2.50 a piece.
 
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