1G Radiator plastic inlet neck broke clean in half, fixable or get new radiator?

[XC92]

I'm pretty sure I know the answer, just making sure. The top inlet neck that the upper water hose clamps onto on my '92 Talon TSi broke the other day, probably due to a combination of being 30 years old and my leaning on it while working in the engine bay.

The neck is around 1.5" long and about half of it remains, enough to clamp the hose onto fairly securely, but with obviously half as much plastic to hold it in place with friction, and the end lip is obviously useless now.

I have the piece that fell off, looks like a plastic collar. The break was fairly clean and both halves are otherwise intact and uncracked. Can it be reliably repaired with some high-temp epoxy and some fiberglass fiber wrap, or some other method, or should I just get a new radiator?

If I do need a new radiator, since my car is stock with no plans to ever mod it, and even if I do we're talking no more than 250-300HP and no racing or super-aggressive driving, any recs? Would I benefit from aluminum or is one of those "OE-like" units you can get from RockAuto or Autozone OK for my situation?

And if I do get an aluminum one, is this one from RTM Racing a decent one:

RTM Racing :: MITSUBISHI / EAGLE :: DSM: 1g (1990-94) :: Cooling :: Radiators :: Aluminum Race Rad: 1g DSM

It's the last one they have in stock so I'd have to order it soon. It's around $150, while the plastic tank ones are around $100-$120.

And either way, any mods I'd need to do or other parts I should get to install them, or is it basically just a simple swap-out? I've already flushed the cooling system, and will probably get a new intake and outlet hose while I'm at it? Anything else?

 

[pauleyman]

Trash it. Stock replacements should bolt in.

 

[XC92]

Trash it. Stock replacements should bolt in.

What I thought. No need to aluminum for my setup? The generic plastic tank ones all look the same so they're probably all rebranded versions of the same unit. Autozone has a Duralast that comes out to just under $100 after a 15% off coupon. It's decent?

 

[We're on Boost]

That RTM radiator looks pretty nice. They don't say who makes it though. That's a little off-putting. But the stock types probably all have plastic tanks and that's a little off-putting too.
The RTM rad seems to have all the right fittings in the right places, except it is missing one mounting point for the AC fan. Maybe that's not used, I don't remember.
It looks pretty similar to my Koyo which I bought way back in 2006 and it is doing fine.
Here's the best shot I have of the back side of it when it was new, for comparison.

Anyway, a stock type aftermarket replacement one could be ok or not, just depending on how good the quality of it is, and I don't know how you would know that.
Personally, I got a little upset when I found out Koyo doesn't make these anymore (for the 1g).

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[XC92]

That RTM radiator looks pretty nice. They don't say who makes it though. That's a little off-putting. But the stock types probably all have plastic tanks and that's a little off-putting too.
The RTM rad seems to have all the right fittings in the right places, except it is missing one mounting point for the AC fan. Maybe that's not used, I don't remember.
It looks pretty similar to my Koyo which I bought way back in 2006 and it is doing fine.
Here's the best shot I have of the back side of it when it was new, for comparison.

Anyway, a stock type aftermarket replacement one could be ok or not, just depending on how good the quality of it is, and I don't know how you would know that.
Personally, I got a little upset when I found out Koyo doesn't make these anymore (for the 1g).

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Yes, I see that one of the driver's side bolt holes is missing. I'll check tomorrow to see if it's used on my Talon. Although, according to this image they're not necessarily needed, depending on the fan. I'll be reusing my stock OEM ones.

RTM Racing :: MITSUBISHI / EAGLE :: DSM: 1g (1990-94) :: Cooling :: Fans & Shrouds :: Aluminum Race Rad w/Shroud & Fans: 1g DSM

Also seemingly missing is two lower inlet/return pipes. Not the main ones but narrower ones that you can see on other radiator models.

I mean like on this one:

RockAuto | All The Parts Your Car Will Ever Need

Auto Parts for Your Vehicle at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

Aren't those the oil cooler inlet and outlet tubes? Could they be located elsewhere on the RTM one?

 

[We're on Boost]

Also seemingly missing is two lower inlet/return pipes. Not the main ones but narrower ones that you can see on other radiator models.

I mean like on this one:

RockAuto | All The Parts Your Car Will Ever Need

Auto Parts for Your Vehicle at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

Aren't those the oil cooler inlet and outlet tubes? Could they be located elsewhere on the RTM one?

Yes those 2 smaller fittings are automatic transmission oil cooler fittings. The RTM radiator doesn't have those. That's why it says on the RTM page "This radiator is not compatible with auto transmission-equipped vehicles, unless a separate transmission cooler is used."

On the "more info" page for the GPD radiator on Rock Auto, it's not really clear what those fittings are. But if you look at the OSC radiator more info page, there is a chart with specs listed out, and a few of the specs mention it:

Transmission Oil Cooler Included ............................................ Yes
Transmission Oil Cooler Distance between Fittings (IN) ........13 3/4
Transmission Oil Cooler Diameter (IN) ........................................ 7/8
Engine Oil Cooler Included ............................................................ No

It also says the number of core rows is 1. I think the other radiators shown by Rock Auto are also 1 row.
The RTM radiator is 2 rows, so it should have more cooling capacity. The Koyo radiator was also 2 rows. I think the Mishimoto aluminum radiator is 2 rows. I don't know how many rows the original radiators have.

BTW I think the OEM main cooling fan is a really good fan, and I think they may have updated and improved it at some point after 1990.
Because when my original 1990 fan conked out with about 130,000 miles on the car, I bought a new fan motor, blades, and shroud from a Mitsubishi dealer. I remember thinking at the time that the motor on the new one looked a little more heavy duty than the old one I had taken off the car. My car is an early '90 though - Sept 1989.
The blades and shroud and everything are well made, and it's a deep blade. Not a shallow bladed thing like most of us are using on modified cars. I still have it - English Racing gave it back to me with the stuff they took off the car, and it's probably in perfect shape.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I would add my 02¢. I find aluminum radiators soak up under hood heat much more than the stock radiators. When I was running super lean and making my exhaust glow, my water temps would really go up. I do not run a shroud but that Mitsumoto X sure did like to absorb the heat off of the header.
Ok, I'm done

 

[XC92]

I would add my 02¢. I find aluminum radiators soak up under hood heat much more than the stock radiators. When I was running super lean and making my exhaust glow, my water temps would really go up. I do not run a shroud but that Mitsumoto X sure did like to absorb the heat off of the header.
Ok, I'm done

Um, cooling newbie here. That's a GOOD thing, right?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

When it soaks up the heat I was producing, it would raise the water temp too high. If I had a plastic/stock radiator, I feel it wouldn't have soaked it up, just cooled the water going thru it.

 

[XC92]

When it soaks up the heat I was producing, it would raise the water temp too high. If I had a plastic/stock radiator, I feel it wouldn't have soaked it up, just cooled the water going thru it.

Ah, you meant that it would absorb the engine/exhaust/turbo radiant heat, as opposed to its coolant-borne heat. So, that's a BAD thing? But if I'm running a basically stock setup, I shouldn't really have to worry about that?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

If your heat shields are in place I would expect it to cool as normal.
I did want to express that just because its bigger doesn't always mean it will work better in my experience with the cooling system and non-stock components.

 

[Widgmaster]

I run the Mishimoto rad and did not notice any increase in temperature...I do have the heat shield in place. Mishimoto does not make a rad for the automatic so you have to add a tranny cooler. To the OP....get a new rad. There is 13lbs of pressure there...do you really want to take the chance it will fail and leave you stranded.

 

[XC92]

I run the Mishimoto rad and did not notice any increase in temperature...I do have the heat shield in place. Mishimoto does not make a rad for the automatic so you have to add a tranny cooler. To the OP....get a new rad. There is 13lbs of pressure there...do you really want to take the chance it will fail and leave you stranded.

Yeah, I'll get a new one, only question is which. I'm leaning towards the RTM Racing no-name aluminum one. They have a good rep so I'm guessing that it's a good one. It's only $50 or so more than one of the generic OE-style plastic tank ones I'd get from a local auto store, and seems worth the extra expense since it's all metal.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I run Champion radiators also, besides my Mitsumoto and they look identical except for the name embossed on the tank of the Mitsumoto. Just so everyone knows of another radiator company. We run them in our Camaro's also.

 

[XC92]

Yes those 2 smaller fittings are automatic transmission oil cooler fittings. The RTM radiator doesn't have those. That's why it says on the RTM page "This radiator is not compatible with auto transmission-equipped vehicles, unless a separate transmission cooler is used."

On the "more info" page for the GPD radiator on Rock Auto, it's not really clear what those fittings are. But if you look at the OSC radiator more info page, there is a chart with specs listed out, and a few of the specs mention it:

Transmission Oil Cooler Included ............................................ Yes
Transmission Oil Cooler Distance between Fittings (IN) ........13 3/4
Transmission Oil Cooler Diameter (IN) ........................................ 7/8
Engine Oil Cooler Included ............................................................ No

It also says the number of core rows is 1. I think the other radiators shown by Rock Auto are also 1 row.
The RTM radiator is 2 rows, so it should have more cooling capacity. The Koyo radiator was also 2 rows. I think the Mishimoto aluminum radiator is 2 rows. I don't know how many rows the original radiators have.

BTW I think the OEM main cooling fan is a really good fan, and I think they may have updated and improved it at some point after 1990.
Because when my original 1990 fan conked out with about 130,000 miles on the car, I bought a new fan motor, blades, and shroud from a Mitsubishi dealer. I remember thinking at the time that the motor on the new one looked a little more heavy duty than the old one I had taken off the car. My car is an early '90 though - Sept 1989.
The blades and shroud and everything are well made, and it's a deep blade. Not a shallow bladed thing like most of us are using on modified cars. I still have it - English Racing gave it back to me with the stuff they took off the car, and it's probably in perfect shape.

Thanks, so seeing as my Talon is manual, no need for those extra auto trans fittings and this radiator would fit perfectly in it. I took a look at its images side by side with a Mitsumoto, and they look almost identical. I mean it's a radiator, a passive device with no moving parts. So long as it's well-made, and I'm sure that it is, I assume that it would be fine for my situation and needs. Seems worth the extra $50 for better cooling and less chance of snapping. While I'm at it I'll also replace the upper & lower hoses. Anything else typically need replacing there?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

As long as the temp switch in the bottom is good, that should be all you need. Put a little teflon tape on it and stick it in the new unit. Remember to hook it back up so the fans come on.

EDIT: If the radiator cap is old, replace it also then it should be fine.

 

[XC92]

As long as the temp switch in the bottom is good, that should be all you need. Put a little teflon tape on it and stick it in the new unit. Remember to hook it back up so the fans come on.

I'll make sure to test it and if it checks out reinstall it. And I replaced the cap last year, with one of those with a safety valve.

 

[We're on Boost]

I run Champion radiators also, besides my Mitsumoto and they look identical except for the name embossed on the tank of the Mitsumoto. Just so everyone knows of another radiator company. We run them in our Camaro's also.

Hey thanks for mentioning Champion radiators because it never occurred to me that they would make rads for DSMs!
Wouldn't it be funny if the RTM radiator was made by Champion? I mean it could be, since they don't say who made theirs.

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1990-1991-1992-1993-1994-Mitsubishi-Eclipse

shop.championcooling.com

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

New, in the box. Bought it not too long ago.

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[92AWDHX40]

Well there you go good choice, get one and put her in and go for it.

 

[Mech Addict]

I think the core of the stock radiator is still aluminum, just not the top and bottom ends, which don’t do much cooling regardless of their material. I would agree that a completely aluminum radiator would be less prone to leaks and ….breakage. Now some aftermarket units might have cores that are configured to radiate more heat (away). Makes sense because the oem is always a compromise of cost vs function, and often aren’t any better than they need to be for the oem job. That said, you got 30 years out of yours, and it broke from stress. (No judgment, I break stuff all the time while fixing other stuff).
Definitely replace the upper and lower hoses with freshies, and new clamps if yours are old spring-type.

 

[XC92]

Yeah, it's time for a new one. I've lost coolant to this or that issue too many times this past year and eventually it's going to be bad if I don't replace everything that needs to be replaced that could trash the car.

 

[We're on Boost]

New, in the box. Bought it not too long ago.

That does look nice!
I see "3 row core" on the label. Probably that is an option that raises the price from the "Starting at" price, right?

 

[Widgmaster]

The Mishimoto all-aluminum rad goes for $383... plus $125 shipping and handling. These are Canadian prices...If I was you I'd grab the one @1990TSIAWDTALON has posted.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

That does look nice!
I see "3 row core" on the label. Probably that is an option that raises the price from the "Starting at" price, right?

I don't remember if there was a lower option on it. The Champion site would list them and it looks like they only offer the 3 row.