Quick timing belt question

[rivet0r]

I'm doing a timing belt job on my car most likely tomorrow, and as I was reading through the vfaq on it, I came across this step :

Loosen the tensioner pulley center bolt, attach special tool no. MD998752 (part # changed to MD998767, contact Miller Tool for this tool - 800-801-5420) and apply 2.7 Nm (24 in. lbs.) torque to pulley (with beam type torque wrench) as shown in Figure 19. WITH TORQUE APPLIED TO THE TENSIONER PULLEY, tighten the attaching bolt, then torque to 49 ± 6 Nm (36 ± 4 ft. lbs.).

Now, what special tool is it and do I have to use it? Is it refering to the beam type torque wrench?

And also, is there a way I can do it without needing a special tool? I already have the tensioner tool, but I'm not positive on what this step is refering to.


If you have any other tips on a timing belt job, shoot it on by.

Thanks for any help,
rivet0r

 

[DSM90AWD]

There is a diff VFAQ HERE that shows the detail of the tool. Also the pic below (the one on the right).
It actually plugs into the tensioner pulley and you use a tork wrench to apply the specified tork to the belt.

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[FlipDsM]

or you can get a long(longest you can find) nose plier with a 90Degree tip. grind the tip enough to go into the two hole on the tensioner pulley. i spent $8 for the plier at autozone. it works great. good luck!

 

[rivet0r]

or you can get a long(longest you can find) nose plier with a 90Degree tip. grind the tip enough to go into the two hole on the tensioner pulley. i spent $8 for the plier at autozone. it works great. good luck!

How do you apply the proper torque to the pulley with that method?

 

[DSM90AWD]

Answer.. you can't. Would have to do it by feel.
The tool is pretty cheep and Miller can get it to you quick. Also may want to chack with a local DSM chapter to see if can loan you one.

I'm ultra-anal when it comes to doing the Timing Belt correctly having had 1.5 (.5 = slipped but no bent valves) belt failures already

 

[luv2rallye]

Don't bother getting the Miller tool. I've done over a dozen dsm TB's every one done correctly. Do as FlipDsm did with a 90 degree pliers - I use the same thing. And you can replace all that complicated tensioning torq stuff (which you can never get right with the engine in the car anyway - no room) by just adjusting the tension pulley until the auto tensioner pin (allen wrench temporarily holding auto tensioner compressed) moves freely in the tensioner hole. Adjust the tension pulley to do this and it will automatically make the distance between the tensioner arm and tensioner body be correct (.15 - .18 in.) since one is a direct function of the other. Just make sure you turn the crankshaft the 6 times and wait for the belt to stretch before doing this. When done, turn crank 1/4 turn back and forward and check and re-adjust if needed.

 

[jrivard]

I just used a long screw driver and tensioned it by feel. I did use the other tool though from Miller. You don't ever want to turn an engine in the opposite direction.

 

[luv2rallye]

You don't ever want to turn an engine in the opposite direction.

Normally I would agree with you but the 99 Mitsubishi service manual itself says to do this (p.11B-22 item 13).

 

[tommiman]

Don't bother getting the Miller tool. I've done over a dozen dsm TB's every one done correctly. Do as FlipDsm did with a 90 degree pliers - I use the same thing. And you can replace all that complicated tensioning torq stuff (which you can never get right with the engine in the car anyway - no room) by just adjusting the tension pulley until the auto tensioner pin (allen wrench temporarily holding auto tensioner compressed) moves freely in the tensioner hole. Adjust the tension pulley to do this and it will automatically make the distance between the tensioner arm and tensioner body be correct (.15 - .18 in.) since one is a direct function of the other. Just make sure you turn the crankshaft the 6 times and wait for the belt to stretch before doing this. When done, turn crank 1/4 turn back and forward and check and re-adjust if needed.

Yup you're right. I spoke with a Chrysler mechanic at my local dealer and he also said the samething. They don't bother with the special tools.

 

[rivet0r]

Whoops, forgot to update this post. I also used the 90 degree needle nose, and it works just fine. Car is running great, aside from the possible oil leak from the headgasket ;\

Thanks for everyones help, it's a lot easier than it is made out to be.

 

[MrDee]

You guys must go through hell doin TBs...in the even you dont have Vises and all those special tools, before you remove the Auto tensioner and thepulley..assuming that the old TB is still in place and that the 2 holes are still to the left..

Get your Number14 spanner and tighten the pulley bolt further..slowly the 2 holes are goin to move to the right while doin so..put your tiny allen key or whatever in the tensioner hole and wait for the tensioner holes to align and push the key inside.
Now you can continue finishing job..replacing the belt etc