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Questions for Justin...

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Heres with car lowered back on the ground. You think itll be ok?
It's kinda a steep angle for the hose....you can probably replace that 60* fitting with another 45* and they'll probably line up just fine.

What do you think a GT3076r compressor wheel mated to a GT30 turbine wheel will flow in a mitsu bolt on housing?
Depends what turbine housing you're using, and how well the turbine housing flows. Look up user results for the SBR GT13, AGP L2R, and FP 3052.
 
So my 1G BOV is leaking which I believe is causing the MAF to be choppy. I recall when I did my BLT test to 25psi my BOV was leaking through the recirculating tube (the vacuum hose from the IM was on) But it was leaking from the moment I started the test and I had to increase the psi from compressor just to get to 25psi (probably overworking turbo smh). Would you say that could be the reason for the Choppy MAF Raw?

Thanks
 
So my 1G BOV is leaking which I believe is causing the MAF to be choppy. I recall when I did my BLT test to 25psi my BOV was leaking through the recirculating tube (the vacuum hose from the IM was on) But it was leaking from the moment I started the test and I had to increase the psi from compressor just to get to 25psi (probably overworking turbo smh). Would you say that could be the reason for the Choppy MAF Raw?

Thanks
Absolutely. Inconsistent boost = inconsistent airflow.

Do the Dodge Garage Mod to your valve and never look back. ;)
I couldn't really find the info I was for, but I think its in a 7cm housing. In that housing would I be better sticking with my 20g?
It still has a larger turbine than your 20G, so it would likely flow more regardless.
 
Quick turbine question. Does the same rule apply for the compressor wheel as it does for the turbine as in blade spacing and airflow? What would happen if turbine blade spacing was minimized and the housing gap minimized to combat lag, it would lose power in the upper flow ranges right? Having a debate with a friend and needed to ask.
 
Less turbine blades = more turbine flow as there is a wider gap between the blades and more space for the airflow to fill....more exhaust flow will pass through the wheel with every revolution.

More turbine blades = better spool as there is more surface area of the turbine wheel to "grab" the exhaust flow.
 
The smaller things are the more restriction in flow there will be. Yes it will spool faster but it's similar
To say a bep .55AR vs the .70AR the .55 is more limiting because it's smaller. Also think about a 16g, it has a smaller turbine and housing, spools quite fast, but won't make 500hp.
 
Justin,
I have a 20G/ TD05 CHRA I pulled apart with the assistance of your tech article (Thanks!). However when pulling the thrust bearing out of the CHRA I found a few metal shavings. I know the thrust bearing is shot due to the axial shaft play and blued bearing insert. My question is when looking in the CHRA housing what key areas are there to inspect/ measure to insure that it's serviceable?
 
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Damaged turbine sealing ring surface, or grooved/out-of-spec journals. You'll know right away if the journals are screwed- the bearing will either fit too loosely or not drop in at all because of raised grooving from oil contamination.
 
That rtv didn't seal the snap ring opening for some reason:( if i rtv that opening on the back side of the compressor cover that should seal it right? I mean it's literally only leaking where the snapring opening is. Effin annoying since i just put the turbo back on, i put a very thin layer of rtv on the grove of the chra compressor back plate and around the outer edge, thought for sure that would solve it.
 
I had the same problem with my hx40! The first time I used a really thin film and it took me 30 minutes to get the damn thing back on. Still leaked, so I pulled it off again and used the "RIGHT STUFF" and was able to get the cover back on quickly and seals like a champion now! I also used a little more silicone that time. Also make SURE that everything is way CLEAN!! BTW you can do it with the turbo on the car, that is how I did it.
 
Good question ^ I've been meaning to ask Justin the same thing but for HX-35 parts

Justin, I just picked up a seemingly good HX35 -just a slight resistance to turning the shaft so I took it apart. Everything measured within spec as I recall just looked like a case of oil coking (I know this guy never idled his truck, drove it like a hot Mustang) Truck was the 5.9 12V.

I had a hard time finding a true OEM supplier online (trying to avoid the Dodge dealer, prices seem too high) do you have any advice?
 
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Justin, to rebuild the stock 1g 14b what parts/source would you recommend?
Not sure what guys are using these days- the majority of my parts kits I use are assembled from parts sourced from three different vendors.

Good question ^ I've been meaning to ask Justin the same thing but for HX-35 parts

I had a hard time finding a true OEM supplier online (trying to avoid the Dodge dealer, prices seem too high) do you have any advice?
Any Cummins Turbo Tech dealer or one of the many performance diesel shops like High Tech Turbo should be able to help you out.
 
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