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Questions for Justin...

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Question.

I have a 10.5-1 alum rod engine being built, & am thinking of getting rid of my s375 in favor of a 6-blade HX-40. I have a question about what housing I should go with. Car will be at 40psi, & was thinking of getting a t-4 divided or possible t-3 divided. Just don't know what A/R. Car will see mostly track life with the occasional street. Thanks, for the help I am in the dark with Holsets. Also what power & spool level would I be likely to see.
 
Any reason you're considering dropping 15mm on compressor spec? If you're worried about spool, I'd be more inclined to suggest something like a S366 which is a 9mm drop in compressor spec but may still use the same turbine housing (depending on turbine specs) and oiling hardware as your S375. Changing platforms entirely would require purchasing a bunch of new hardware.
 
Any reason you're considering dropping 15mm on compressor spec? If you're worried about spool, I'd be more inclined to suggest something like a S366 which is a 9mm drop in compressor spec but may still use the same turbine housing (depending on turbine specs) and oiling hardware as your S375. Changing platforms entirely would require purchasing a bunch of new hardware.


Plans have changed for the car, the original build plans where for a drag only car more or less, I was just looking for something with more streetablility. I don't mind full spool at 6k & shifting at 9.5K, just want something a little more "instant". I don't mind changing hardware
 
I am looking into the s366 right now because you are the 3rd Person to recommend that change up.

I was just doing some research on the Holsets & am impressed by the #'s.

Also if I am correct doesn't the HX40 flow more Lbs/min than the s366
 
Hey Justin got one more question.

As you know I just traded my s375 for a s366 with the T-4 .91 A/R. After contacting Bullseye they told me the only other A/R they sell is a T-3 .70 A/R. my question/concern is that the .70 will limit a turbo of this size.

I asked them directly but of course got a answer that basically says "Buy Me It won't" from them. Just looking at your opinions/help on the matter.
 
Hey Justin got one more question.

As you know I just traded my s375 for a s366 with the T-4 .91 A/R. After contacting Bullseye they told me the only other A/R they sell is a T-3 .70 A/R. my question/concern is that the .70 will limit a turbo of this size.

I asked them directly but of course got a answer that basically says "Buy Me It won't" from them. Just looking at your opinions/help on the matter.
They produced such a turbo which did have the .70 turbine housing on it, and to my knowledge it worked fairly well. I wouldn't recommend it if you have a stroker and plan on running a high boost level, but with a 2.0 I think you'll be very happy.
 
They produced such a turbo which did have the .70 turbine housing on it, and to my knowledge it worked fairly well. I wouldn't recommend it if you have a stroker and plan on running a high boost level, but with a 2.0 I think you'll be very happy.


Yeah after looking around their site, I saw the .70 isn't recommended over 25+psi, which won't work with my 42psi plans.
 
Any do's or don'ts for getting the compressor nut off when 3 flats of the turbine "nut" were ground off during balancing? I don't see any other options besides holding the wheel somehow. Vice and wood blocks? Strap wrench? I swear these garrett turbos have the nuts set to 100 ft lbs too, it takes some heat and everything my 3/8ths impact wrench has to get them off. I got the 56 trim blown apart right after I melted my left thumb off with the torch, but the 50 trim is kicking my ass with this mangled turbine nut. Mitsu turbos have been way easier... :)
 
Hey Justin, just curious if it would be okay to feed the 16g from the Oil filter housing, and if this kit would be all I need to install it without any problems.. Thanks!

Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP 16G Install Kit for 2G DSM
I wouldn't without using a +/- .075" restrictor.

There's plenty of info on this site about proper 16G oiling as well as how to install a 16G on a 2G on a budget without buying an installation kit.

Any do's or don'ts for getting the compressor nut off when 3 flats of the turbine "nut" were ground off during balancing? I don't see any other options besides holding the wheel somehow. Vice and wood blocks? Strap wrench? I swear these garrett turbos have the nuts set to 100 ft lbs too, it takes some heat and everything my 3/8ths impact wrench has to get them off. I got the 56 trim blown apart right after I melted my left thumb off with the torch, but the 50 trim is kicking my ass with this mangled turbine nut. Mitsu turbos have been way easier... :)
Garrett's good for this....even worse on the T2 series which has a triangular "nut" from the factory. Once a bit of this is ground away during balancing, there's nothing left to hold onto.

I find a bench vise clamped just behind the "nut" works best on stubborn turbines. Heat the compressor locknut, and I've yet to run into a turbo I couldn't get apart using that clamping method along with my 3/8" impact. Keep in mind the compressor locknut is likely left-hand threaded. ;)
 
Yup, I did verify it is left hand threaded. There is a tiny bit of meat behind the nut, I'll see if I can get the vice on it. Thanks!
 
Justin Hi!!

I just traded off a small 12g from a starion to a 3 cylinders guy for it.I know is a 20G but i can't seem to find any info on it.I ask because the turbine housing seems a lot bigger than a regular td05H.Anyways here are some pics.

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Turbo looks like it got something sucked and damed the compressor wheel but apart from that is in awesome shape.Hope you can help me.

Just measured both wheels:

Compressor: 52mm more or less inducer.
Turbine wheel:55mm more or less exducer and inducer 65mm more or less.

Tried to put it on a regular 7cm td05h turbine housing and it will not fit.
 

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