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Questions for Justin...

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Well... Did you know what you were getting yourself into in the first place??

Time to buy a Holset! ROFL Only kidding.

Like Justin said, it'll cost just as much to fix it, if not more, than to just buy a working 16g. I have been down that road myself already, and it is honestly cheaper to just sell that turdbo as a parts core on ebay or something, and get something else.


This is what happens when the pictures are from 5 feet out, and the turbo "could use a rebuild" :ohdamn:HX40 would be nice, but it makes instillation that much more of a pain in the ass.

Thanks for the advice guys.
 
I can't see a new HX40 with no shaft play and a 12AN drain giving you any turbine seal issues. Double-check your crankcase ventilation setup.


Ding ding ding i think this is due to my gatorade catch can :D. Everything was replace in the head as well so it's not valve seals. I think your right jus.

And yeah I Have a ported ofh, i see 90 psi max oil pressure ocasionally. Most of the time 80-85 but this aem gauge goes on the wack quite often. Sometimes dropping to 0 when i KNOW I have oil pressure. Turn off the car and back on, and everything goes normal.
 
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In reality If I were going to build a DSM right now I would run a Evo DBB FP black. It is a badass little turbo. We run them around 36-38 psi in a few of our customers cars and they do great. Of course it is just a glorified HTA3582.

This is my plans for mine:).

So the experimental you say was to laggy?
 
Hey. JusMX141(or anyone else in the know)

You wouldn't happen to know what the size difference between 6bolt & 7bolt oil pan holes for the oil return line is. Seeing as how T25 oil return lines are bigger than 14b's, the hole at the pan and gasket should be bigger as well, right?
Thinking about running a modified T25 oil return line on a 6bolt oil pan for a Holset. I'm guessing I'm gonna have to drop the oil pan and enlarge the hole a couple milimeters.
 
you would be better off using a 1g line because its thicker and wont collapse when you slip a hose over it.
 
you would be better off using a 1g line because its thicker and wont collapse when you slip a hose over it.
The 2G drain is a larger diameter, and the flex section is at the bend...allowing much more flexibility. I agree, the 2G drain is indeed more fragile when clamping being aluminum.
 
This is my plans for mine:).

So the experimental you say was to laggy?


Yea when the FP black was on it that made 748 the car was a beast. It had gobs of torque down low and it made it very interesting rolling into it in 3rd gear. It would try to rip the steering wheel out of your hand.

On the experimental turbo all of that was gone, Full spool was seen around 55-5800rpm, The car was easier to drive and made more power up top but it was just too laggy for a stock frame turbo.

Some people may like the extra lag due to the faster spooling black making more torque down low but I didn't, so that is end-user preference.

I can tell you this, I will be putting the FP Black back on the car beginning of next week.


The only reason most do not like the black is due to the price, I will agree that it is high but I personally think it is well worth it. If I had a choice between a FP black or a HX40 lets say I would choose the black.

We have a customer that we sponsor his car. He runs a long rod 2.4, Bushur stage 3 head, GSC S3 cams at 9.0:1 compression. He is running a FP black, car is a daily driver and is very well mannered. It has went 10.3@135 at 34psi.

With the 2.4 he sees full spool by 4500RPM and it feels great.


I love the FP black myself if you can't tell.
 
Hey justin,

Looks like mitsu makes a "Td06sl2" style turbine wheel now. Taken from the FP facebook page, this turbocharger upgrade was featured at SEMA, apparently FP helped developed it. Just thought it was pretty cool, not sure if you saw.

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Interesting- appears to be surge-ported and perhaps have a billet compressor as well. I'm sure that thing has a heavy price tag. LOL

FP has them for sale for $1699, not sure what the dealership will charger but FP said they will not sell the install of this turbo and probably will void the vehicle warranty.
 
I just got a new assembled CHRA for my HX40. Originally my HX40 has a 6 blade comp wheel. This new CHRA has an 8 blade.

Is there a 60mm 8 blade? Or am I going to have to buy a new compressor cover as well?

I don't have anything to measure it with at the moment.
 
It's mainly driven on the street and figure the 8 blade would be better. The only times it will be at higher boost levels is at the track. I've never even been though, but am finally ready for this coming season!

If it is indeed a 60mm will I be ok to use my compressor cover that's currently on the 6 blade CHRA?

Edit: Since I swear I ordered a 7 blade I went back and looked over the order. I did infact order a 7 blade, but got an 8. I don't mind it being an 8 blade though unless I have to spend more money on a new compressor cover.
 
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I'm not too concerned with not having a turbo capable of 70lbs a minute when I know I will never even try to get there.

I'll be comparing measurements when I pick up a caliper and a good set of snap ring pliers to deal with that snap ring of death. Hopefully I can get it off without getting any new scars haha.
 
Good luck with that... I have a quite visable scar across my left thumb from one of those damn snap rings. If I knew where I could buy just those snap rings, I would do like Justin and just cut them off.

Where do you buy those snap rings anyhow?
 
there not that big of a deal, just use a pair of large pliers and it squeezes together pretty easy. As long as you have the snap ring that have the little nubs that hang out so you can get the pliers on them! Its def easy if the turbo is off the car!
 
Even with sharpened 90 degree long handle needle nose pliers, the big compressor housing g snap rings are a serious pain in the ass. Yes, they are much easier to put on than take off, from my experience.
 
It wouldn't be a Disco Potato without the .86 A/R turbine set up... That is what allows it to spool up like a T25 and keep on yanking until 7k. If you slapped a DSM turbine housing on it, you'd be defeating the intended design of the DP.
 
If it is indeed a 60mm will I be ok to use my compressor cover that's currently on the 6 blade CHRA?

Edit: Since I swear I ordered a 7 blade I went back and looked over the order. I did infact order a 7 blade, but got an 8. I don't mind it being an 8 blade though unless I have to spend more money on a new compressor cover.
Why not return what you were incorrectly sent and get the right part? If your center housing is cut for an 86mm exducer, there's no reason not to.

The 7 blade would have had the spool of the 8 blade and the airflow of the 6..
Not exactly. The 8-blade has a physically smaller wheel so there's not much chance the larger 7-blade will ever spool that quickly.

Where do you buy those snap rings anyhow?
Cummins part # 3533163. :D

If a disco potato is a just a modified t28 can you not just use the dsm turbine housing? Or would it need machining?
We touch on that a bit here. Theoretically you *could* have a T25 turbine housing machined to work, but I don't know why you'd want to as you'd just end up with an expensive-ass ball bearing T28.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/442192-gt28rs-disco-potato-road-course.html
 
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