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Resolved Questions about my Forced Performance green turbo

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talontsiboy24

10+ Year Contributor
868
3
Mar 28, 2009
60457, Illinois
this may sound stupid but im still learning i just wanted to know if my turbo is watercooled or not? i see a braided steel line running from it to my exhaust so im guessin its oil cooled? and after hard driving is 6min 2 long to let the turbo cool down? i have a hks turbo timer that i have to set how long i want the car to stay on.
 
You want fries with that?
The FP GREEN™ for 1990-1999 Eclipse/Talon/Laser is available in both internal and external wastegate configurations and comes with a water cooled center housing. For externally gated applications, we highly recommend TiAL wastegates.

I think that answers your question?
With water cooled CHRAs it is not as vital to let them cool off before shutdown as it is with solely oil cooled/lubricated CHRAs. As long as you aren't driving like a jackass 5 right before you turn it off just letting it idle for a bit or using the TT for 30 seconds should be more than enough.
 
for most driving conditions out of load, (driving in traffic, etc) only 30 seconds or so is needed. Anything after a few freeway runs or so, I've always felt that a minute or so would suffice. AFter roadracing, even on a watercooled turbo, about 2-3 minutes would suffice.

And YES, keep the timer. It works.. Use it.
 
this may sound stupid but im still learning i just bought this car few weeks ago so wanted to know if my turbo is watercooled or not? i see a braided steel line running from it to my exhaust so im guessin its oil cooled? and after hard driving is 6min 2 long to let the turbo cool down? i have a hks turbo timer that i have to set how long i want the car to stay on.

There shouldnt be any braided steel lines running from your turbo to your exhaust? maybe your talking about your oil filter housing? (i think thats where 2gs get their oil from)
 
i see a braided steel line running from it to my exhaust so im guessin its oil cooled?

Huh?

Greens came in oil cooled only and oil/coolant versions. It's easy enough to look at the front of the center cartridge and see if there's a bango bolt with a fitting on it or not.
 
How much of a d-bag do you drive like to have your turbo timer at 6min?!?!?! LOL j/k

Its just a waste of gas for it to run that long. 30 sec should be fine, if that.
You should drive normal everywhere unless your doing a pull with someone.
 
Why did you make two threads asking the same question, and then keep posting in both of them? Let one or the other one of these threads die.

I'll just keep posting in this one because I already did post here. No, how would idling your car hurt your turbo? It's just unnecessary to idle for that long. Second, you should already be slowing down as you approach your destination. Think of it this way, I'm not going to be ripping through my neighborhood on residential streets, and typically you aren't driving hard right up until you park the car and turn it off, so you should be ok with normal driving. If you are driving spiritedly, I would make sure that I have at least a couple minutes of normal driving or just let it idle for 30 seconds to a minute.
 
for most driving conditions out of load, (driving in traffic, etc) only 30 seconds or so is needed. Anything after a few freeway runs or so, I've always felt that a minute or so would suffice. AFter roadracing, even on a watercooled turbo, about 2-3 minutes would suffice.

And YES, keep the timer. It works.. Use it.

what about 1hr of driving like fast and stop and go? like 3min?
 
If you drive normally to your destination you shouldn't need to time the turbo. Also, think more like 30seconds to a minute, more than that is unnecessary.
 
You're running an HKS timer. Set it to auto time. It'll read your rpms and adjust the cool down time accordingly. For the most part, 30 seconds should be fine.
 
Im still learning about all this so i just wanted to know is it true the fp green turbo really wakes up at 20+ psi? with my mods can i run more then 19psi on 93 pump gas? the previous owner had the hi settings on the boost control at 19psi but he told me if i replaced the leaky valve cover gasket i can run more because it was leaking krazy and yes i replaced that. i went up to 20psi and nothin blew up or got ###ed up in the car so im guessing the tune on it is pretty good? i mean why have a fp green and run 19psi all the time when its capable of more?

Forced Performance Green 730cfm Turbo with external dump
Dejon intake pipe/K&N FIPK
Walbro 255 fp
660 injectors
Tial waste gate
Ported manifold
Greddy oil catch can
Greddy type S BOV Recirculated
Greddy Large Intercooler Kit
Greddy IC pipes
Greddy sport radiator hose kit
Braided stainless steel oil lines

Electronics:
Greddy profec b boost controller
Greddy 60mm silver face boost gauage & Greddy ext temp gauage
HKS turbo timer
Jumptronix air/fuel meter
Apexi S-afc


Exhaust:
Hahn 3" Downpipe
Thermal 3" exhaust

Built Auto Transmission:
performance trans kit
PI - dragon torque converter 3500 stall
Black spring shift kit
B&M tranny cooler

no wideband or afpr
 
If you bought a FP Green to run under 20psi for it's entire life, the only thing you bought was a lot of lag. An Evo III 16G would've been more rewarding under 20psi.

Crank up the boost and you'll be rewarded for your hard-earned money; I would think the max your injectors can handle will be around 23-24psi at the stock fuel pressure.



....and what the hell is the relation between a leaky valve cover gasket and your max boost level? That's like saying you should change your Power Steering Fluid if you really want to bang gears.
 
If you bought a FP Green to run under 20psi for it's entire life, the only thing you bought was a lot of lag. An Evo III 16G would've been more rewarding under 20psi.

Crank up the boost and you'll be rewarded for your hard-earned money; I would think the max your injectors can handle will be around 23-24psi at the stock fuel pressure.



....and what the hell is the relation between a leaky valve cover gasket and your max boost level? That's like saying you should change your Power Steering Fluid if you really want to bang gears.

Haha this is funny LOL I was thinkin the same thing like wtf only 19psi the green can handle 24psi easily so I should bump it up to 22 at least. The previous owner had the logger and didn't wanna throw it in so that's why I kept it where he had it at ever since. But sht I wanna run more then 19 and wake this green up LOL....I don't have a wideband or fuel pressure regulator though.
 
If you need any help with this, I'm not that far from Palos. I took my FP Green, 660's, Walbro 255, and my AFC well into the 11's, ON PUMP GAS. 25psi on straight 93 octane was its daily diet for the better part of 2 yrs. I loved my Green. I would bolt a 50 trim onto my street car any day of the week! Any questions, just shoot me a PM.
 
I ran an FP Green many years ago, regularly ran 25psi on pump on a bone stock 7 bolt (stock cams/intake mani too). I was running RC 550s, VPC, stock ECU, no wideband, nothin'. With no changes other than cranking the VPC gain counter-clockwise like 1/2 turn the car ran 11.9 @ 117 on C16.
 
If you need any help with this, I'm not that far from Palos. I took my FP Green, 660's, Walbro 255, and my AFC well into the 11's, ON PUMP GAS. 25psi on straight 93 octane was its daily diet for the better part of 2 yrs. I loved my Green. I would bolt a 50 trim onto my street car any day of the week! Any questions, just shoot me a PM.

oh really do u have a fp green also? did u tune it yourself?
 
There are no stock head studs, they're head BOLTS from the factory, and they're fine up to around 30psi as long as you're tuned well without knock. A logger and a wideband would be of great use for really knowing how safe you are at any boost level.
 
There are no stock head studs, they're head BOLTS from the factory, and they're fine up to around 30psi as long as you're tuned well without knock. A logger and a wideband would be of great use for really knowing how safe you are at any boost level.

Yea I need a logger do u know of where I can get one like with the software and cable?
 
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