question with waterpump and elimanator

[mustracetsi]

two days ago my altanator belt snaped on my way home. temp went up but the car and all still sounds the same hoping nothing went bad. but same time i'm thinking of having my timing belt done. everyone says to do the whole works on the forum. looking on some of the vendors if im correct im looking at close to thousand dollars just to get everything done. parts alone is about 500 and i don't have the tools nor the garage to perform this task. i live in new jersey and around here is like honda world. dsm are a rare gem. anyone knows a good shop around the 07055 area. also how much give or take would a shop charge to do a balance shaft elimanator intall. since so many recommend it being removed. figure since im thinking of doing timing belt while i minus well have them put a new crank sensore and elimante the balance shaft that way i don't have to worry about it for anoher 60k miles. even tho i bought the car with a 1k miles on a rebuilt and only put 7k on it. i wan't be on safe side of the belts and stuff. any help is greatly appreciated. thanks in advanced

 

[shibby1036]

there are a few things that you can skimp on if your careful and know what your doing. I.E the idler pulley and hydrolic tenssioner. if the engine has ever been rebuilt it probably has had these parts replaced. HOWEVER... ignorance is not a replacement for quality. you need to be able to remove said parts and check them over. the pulleys for axial play, see if you can move the inner race. if you can time to replace the pulley.
since you have had a heating issue it would be a good idea to do a comp test. if you dont have one. any auto parts store should have one on hand. they run from 29 bucks all the way to a couple hundred depending on the quality, name brand, and accessories. you only need the standard comp tester and shouldnt spend more than 30 to 40 bucks. this tool is needed to check your compression through the cylinders. this is because of the overheating issue you just had. it'll help to let you know if you just warped your head, how much blowby your getting. among other things but lets keep this simple for now.
BE CAREFUL WHO YOU HAVE DO THAT BALANCE SHAFT ELIM KIT. theres a right way and wrong way to do everything. having a shop just remove the balance belt and not remove the shafts is a common thing that happens. there are bearing races in which the balance shaft rides in that need to be turned to block oil passages that would feed the balance shafts. failure to do this will result in low oil pressure. also if your going to delete the balance shafts you might want to upgrade to polyurathane mount inserts .As far as price for parts. like the old saying goes you get what you pay for.

 

[Joethefallen23]

there are a few things that you can skimp on if your careful and know what your doing. I.E the idler pulley and hydrolic tenssioner.

That's the last thing you should skimp on....

OP, give Paul and Josh over at JNZtuning a call. They're pretty local to you over in Hatfield PA. They have VERY reasonable flat rates for their work (I.E. Timing belt, BSE, clutch installs, etc.) and can get you the rights parts for your budget. Gates makes a good kit for the most part. I just did my TB last weekend. Evo IX TB(its kevlar reinforced and right around $75!), OEM Balance belt, OEM timing and balance tensioners, OEM idler pulley, OEM hyd. tensioner and a Gates WP. It was around $350 or so for the parts including the Jay Racing tool set. I went ahead and got a brand new crank pulley for an extra $130 to replace that stupid unorthodox pulley the previous owner had installed. It's not a bad job, I'm just better equipped than most in my garage.

I drove down there myself when I was dropping off a 6-bolt for them to use. They have a nice little setup down there. It only took me 2.5 hours from up here near Poughkeepsie. Shouldn't be much of a drive for you. I'd have them do the work honestly.

 

[shibby1036]

so your saying that if i bought a tensioner 5k ago and went to change out a few thing I should just throw away a GOOD 75 dollar part because I was to ignorant to test and inspect it for proper service. a hydrolic tensioner isnt like a felpro throttle body gasket. it can be reused. if this is your theory then why don"t all replace EVERY part in the engine regardless how NEW or GOOD they are. guess when your motor hits 150k we should just replace it with a new crate motor.
did you read the kids last post. the engine has had a rebuild previously.
I do agree with you about the unorthodox pulley, those are junk. I myself run a fluidamper.
Try not to spend money if you dont actually have too. If a part is in good working service there is no need to replace it. That is why we INSPECT our parts and replace or upgrade as needed.

 

[Joethefallen23]

so your saying that if i bought a tensioner 5k ago and went to change out a few thing I should just throw away a GOOD 75 dollar part because I was to ignorant to test and inspect it for proper service. a hydrolic tensioner isnt like a felpro throttle body gasket. it can be reused. if this is your theory then why don"t all replace EVERY part in the engine regardless how NEW or GOOD they are. guess when your motor hits 150k we should just replace it with a new crate motor.
did you read the kids last post. the engine has had a rebuild previously.
I do agree with you about the unorthodox pulley, those are junk. I myself run a fluidamper.
Try not to spend money if you dont actually have too. If a part is in good working service there is no need to replace it. That is why we INSPECT our parts and replace or upgrade as needed.

Your post can easily mislead a newbie when its worded like that....and some of them do search for threads like this. Beside's there's no knowing whether or not an OEM Hyd. tensioner was used in the first place. How does he even know there's only 1k on the rebuild? chances are its just by word of the previous owner. You said he can skimp. You never said make sure the part was in spec. I'm not telling the kid to dump his money, hell I'm not even telling him to buy any parts, I'm simply pointing out that in a normal TB service, one should never "skimp" on such an important part. If you're going to replace that part, its OEM or bust. If that was worded any differently I wouldn't have said a thing. Constant maintenance and some good TLC is the difference between a dsm going 25k and 250k. No offense intended man just looking out for the noobies that actually search.

I originally planned on a fluidamper but it just wasn't in the budget this time around...haha. Maybe eventually, I figured the new pulley gives me a good 75k before its starts to separate.... one can hope.

 

[shibby1036]

your fine and yeah after rereading my original post i could of been a bit more clear. I know your not meaning any disrespect we all want one thing generally on here and thats the proper and reliable opperation of the few DSMs left. In the future I will make more of an effort to be more clear about what i'm advising and to choose my words more carefully.
as for as the fluidamper, I HIGHLY recommend one if your running a BSE kit. there balance shafts for a reason, to keep harmonic and torsional distortion from destroying the engine. stronger more ridgid motor mounts as well as a fluidamper really helps as an extra pillow for those distortions now created from deleting the balance shafts.

 

[Joethefallen23]

your fine and yeah after rereading my original post i could of been a bit more clear. I know your not meaning any disrespect we all want one thing generally on here and thats the proper and reliable opperation of the few DSMs left. In the future I will make more of an effort to be more clear about what i'm advising and to choose my words more carefully.
as for as the fluidamper, I HIGHLY recommend one if your running a BSE kit. there balance shafts for a reason, to keep harmonic and torsional distortion from destroying the engine. stronger more ridgid motor mounts as well as a fluidamper really helps as an extra pillow for those distortions now created from deleting the balance shafts.

Nope she's a virgin engine for now. I have most of my money tied up looking for a nice Evo IX MR atm. Assuming I can't find a clean one in the next few months, it'll be build time for the GSX. I've been around these cars a few years now and I know exactlly what you mean. I've seen quite a few BSEs gone wrong. Cranks snapped right in half when pushed. Torsional distortion is a silent killer and so many people overlook that. I was disgusted when I found the UO pulley on this otherwise stock GSX Driven the damn thing 5 times since I bought her a year ago. Yet I keep adding more and more parts haha. I really should take it out more now. She runs beautifully!