question on engine bearings

[chrisb33]

Hi guys,

I'm about to purchase some bearings for my engine rebuilt and i have a few questions. Since it's a period of hard times right now, i hope everyone will understand that i want to spend on the right product once. so here goes:

1. What do you guys usually use? Clevite or ACL Tri metal?
2. When i go to extreme psi, there are choices for each bearing like "standard", "std. with additional .001mm oil clearance" should i choose the tightest or with the oil clearance?
3. what is this for? EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Main Bearing Cap Alignment Dowel (MBCAD) Kit : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 Do i need this?

btw, im using the OEM 6bolt crank and rods. Pretty good condition. Will i have to get those oversized bearings? or just the standard sizes? Machine shop is going to do all the pressing and fittings.

thanks guys.

chris b

 

[BoredDSM]

It is all a choice between what you like. The extra .001 of clearance is used to give you more oil flow around the bearings like a thicker cushion. If your going with a standard build I would just go with the regular sized bearings. If you plan to cut the crank you would have to get bearings sized for how much you cut off.

 

[JamiesTSI]

Everybody will have there favorite bearing manufacture. Choose one and go with it. I ran Clevite(aluminum) in the 2.3 and King in the 2.4. I went with std. on the mains and a .001" extra on the rod bearings.

You should be able to use std. bearings. But the only true way to know will be to mic/plasti-gauge mains and rods to be sure.

Good luck.

 

[dsm-onster]

I like regular bearings not tri-metal. IMHO, if the material used in the bearing made the difference with a build then the build has failed because there was bearing/journal contact. If there is no bearing/journal contact, what is the use of tri-metal? I use regular ACL bearings.

 

[andy4g63]

+1 on that and don't turn/cut the crank, if you can.

 

[chrisb33]

Matt, Andy,

As i was doing my research on these bearings, i was under the impression that the tri metal bearings makes the build more durable than the regular ones. less prone to spun bearing problems?

By using regular bearings, you mean the aluglide version? I see only either ACL tri-metal or aluglide bearings.

oh and yeah +1 on the cutting the crank issue.

do you think it's a worthwhile investment to add a kiggly girdle while im at it?

chris b

 

[FP3065TSI]

I personally have used clevite bearings and I also used ITM engine bearings as well. and as for the kiggly girdle if you want to have a stronger bottom end I would say go for it. But I think it should depend on your plans for the build.

 

[TOONAH]

I chose ACL Race Main and Rod bearings because they do not have the final sintered layer.
This final surface layer is extremely hard and brittle. As we know, some 7 bolt cranks seem to suffer from premature thrust bearing failure. What I discovered after tearing a couple of 4G63's down to the nitty, was that the forward thrust surface of the thrust bearing gets mashed against the thrust wall on the crank. Now I discovered that the little bits of this sintered material that broke off got sucked in between the crank journal and the bearing. The journal and bearing surface was grossly abraded by these bits of sintered material. One can argue that if the motor gets early crankwalk who cares if your crank journal gets chewed up! Yeah! well a new Eagle crank is over $700. I have many photographs if anybody is interested. I don't mean to get off subject here but regardless be it a 6 or 7 bolt crank you want to protect it with the best bearings. Incidently another way ( an old British trick!) in getting more oil to the crank journals is having a highly skilled machinist increase the diameter and depth of the chamfer on the oil supply holes.
By the way did Clevite merge with Mahle?