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1G question about temp gauge

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tarheels23

10+ Year Contributor
102
0
May 15, 2011
struthers, Ohio
SSo today my car went about double over where the temp gauge usually sits when the car is warmed up. Mine will be about to the second tick on the cold side when its fully warmed up and I've never seen my car go past half way. So where does everyones temp needle usually sit when the car is fully warmed up?

Also I know my fan isn't working because I must have forgot to hook something back up after I reinstalled my tranny a week ago. All my coolant is fine and green as can be so any tips would be great
 
Your temp needle should sit around the halfway mark when warmed up, a little less or more depending on outside temperature. I'm not sure what you mean by "double", but if it goes 3/4 up the gauge or more, you have an overheating issue. Clogged cooling system, worn water pump, poor radiator airflow, overheating auto trans, blown head gasket, etc etc.
 
Theres a separate temp sensor for the radiator fans that is on the radiator fan, passenger side. The plug for it is on the bottom of the radiator .
 
By double I mean the needlle went about double the distance than it usually travels, it usually always stays a little past the second line on the gauge, this is the first time its went past halfway and it did go over halfway about a quarter of an inch while i was parked. Yesterday my the needle didn't move so I pulled over and pulled off the wire and pushed it back on and it worked like normal, but the day before that the gauge wouldn't move until the car was fully warmed up. Once it was warmed up then it would just shoot up to where it usually sits when warmed up
 
The only one I have doesn't, I must have forgot to hook it back up when I was done with my tranny, I can't look till im out of work to check all the wiring, and I know it worked before I did my tranny
 
hook it back up because without that fan coming on you will overheat EVERY time your not driving down the road.
 
The only one I have doesn't, I must have forgot to hook it back up when I was done with my tranny, I can't look till im out of work to check all the wiring, and I know it worked before I did my tranny

:ohdamn:

Not having a rad fan will cause overheating/higher temps when not moving. That's why you have it. You probably just forgot the plug at the bottom of the radiator, I've forgotten about that a few times myself.
 
So I just went out and looked at my car and the 3 fusible links that connect to the battery the little am amp fuze that's supposed to be in there is gone, sodoes anyone know if the middle fusible links controller the fans?

Im positive now that the missing fuse is causing my overheating issue because I found a picture online of what I need since my paint is wore off.

1G DSM 4G63 Turbo Wiring Harness - Connector Unknown-Battery-Terminal/Fuses

Still going to replace my coolant temperature sensor though
 
i have aftermarket slim fans so they are wired to keyed 12v. you can always hook them up and see. I dont know off hand to be honest. as ling as its fused theres no worries.
 
So I replaced my mpi fuze for the rad fan and it works again and no overheating, also replaced my coolant temp sensor but haven't had a chance to reset my base idle. Also my car temp needle never goes to halfway when fully warmed up,(stays around the second dash) and my heat doesn't get very hot when I have the heater on so could my thermostat be on its way out?
 
So the new coolant temp switch didn't help with my cold start issue, but my car warms up alot faster

Your gauge now functions properly. Also if your heating up faster{ in real time, not by the gauge} then your thermostat may be ok. Do you have heat while idleing? If so highly iunlikely your thermostat is bad.
 
Just replace you ect sensor... It's like 20$ @auto zone... Just did mine, it's pretty easy...
 
And, use a 195* T-stat .. that'll get the cabin warmed up .. along with making the vehicle run as its supposed to since the system, which is in charge by the ECU, is programmed to operate at its fullest with a 195* T-stat.

You drop a cold T-stat in that thing and the ECU thinks the system is in an "open loop" condition (cold condition) and will shove in more fuel to try to heat up the coolant to get the system back in a close loop (normal) condition.
 
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