Purchased new bov... Problem!

[Kevindouglas89]

So I just received my new JDM BoV in the mail today. As I was looking at it, I accidently knocked off the 2nd little nossel :X. It was only about half an inch small, and extremely skinny "Yes, I have a dirty brain too". I dont see how not everyone could have made the same mistake as I did, because there was no support holding that tiny nossel on!

My question is, what is that little nossel used for? Do I need to send it back in to get a new one, or is it alright without the little piece that broke off? I'm really excited about this, and I would love to install asap!

Thanks!

 

[94_TSi]

So I just received my new JDM BoV in the mail today. As I was looking at it, I accidently knocked off the 2nd little nossel :X. It was only about half an inch small, and extremely skinny "Yes, I have a dirty brain too". I dont see how not everyone could have made the same mistake as I did, because there was no support holding that tiny nossel on!

My question is, what is that little nossel used for? Do I need to send it back in to get a new one, or is it alright without the little piece that broke off? I'm really excited about this, and I would love to install asap!

Thanks!

I dont rerally understand this , is it where your vacuum line hooks on? Maybe similar to a barbed fitting?

 

[Kevindouglas89]

I dont rerally understand this , is it where your vacuum line hooks on? Maybe similar to a barbed fitting?

Yes, its sorta confusing. I have the vacuum line, but the one that broke is just below that.

 

[MrBoxx]

Can you explain to me how your BOV is JDM?

Assuming it's like the Greddy S/RS BOV, leave the second, lower nipple alone. Use the top nipple for your vacuum source, from the intake manifold. Remember to leave the BOV vacuum line completely intact; no MBC or boost gauge lines tee'd into it.

 

[Achelea]

Can you explain to me how your BOV is JDM?

Assuming it's like the Greddy S/RS BOV, leave the second, lower nipple alone. Use the top nipple for your vacuum source, from the intake manifold. Remember to leave the BOV vacuum line completely intact; no MBC or boost gauge lines tee'd into it.

Er, Might I ask as to why to leave intact? is that so when you hit higher boost, it doesn't blow out the diaphragm? I'm a bit confused.

 

[Kevindouglas89]

Can you explain to me how your BOV is JDM?

Assuming it's like the Greddy S/RS BOV, leave the second, lower nipple alone. Use the top nipple for your vacuum source, from the intake manifold. Remember to leave the BOV vacuum line completely intact; no MBC or boost gauge lines tee'd into it.

Not sure what you mean about it being a JDM? Purchased it on ebay. Theres nothing on the BoV itself saying JDM, but the gasket that came with it has it written all over it.

So its not a big deal that the second, lower nipple broke off? Just leave it be?

 

[Achelea]

JDM is a buzzword to sell things to people who don't know better.

While it's true some components provide better power for some vehicles, cars like the DSM, it's not really all that different. After all, our cars were built in Normal IL.

 

[94_TSi]

JDM is a buzzword to sell things to people who don't know better.

While it's true some components provide better power for some vehicles, cars like the DSM, it's not really all that different. After all, our cars were built in Normal IL.

+1, 99.9% of the time it is a very good idea to stear clear of anything that says jdm on it.

 

[Kevindouglas89]

+1, 99.9% of the time it is a very good idea to stear clear of anything that says jdm on it.

Ok, thanks for the advice, but I'm curious about my actual problem .

 

[LiquidX]

Pictures say a 1000 words.

Without really seeing the setup of the BOV then there's not much to tell you. Each BOV is going to be different but there are similar styles.

Is it a Greddy style or an HKS SSQV style BOV?

 

[Kevindouglas89]

Pictures say a 1000 words.

Without really seeing the setup of the BOV then there's not much to tell you. Each BOV is going to be different but there are similar styles.

Is it a Greddy style or an HKS SSQV style BOV?

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This is exactly what I purchased.

The nossel on the bottom is what broke off.

 

[LiquidX]

That is a Greddy Type S knock off.

The bottom nipple on the BOV is to be open to the atmosphere like MrBoxx said.

Be sure to do a boost leak test after installing it. Diaphragms tend to be bad with ebay parts for the most part. Hell, even Greddy has horrible diaphragms on their RS model. I'd be on my 3rd one right now after a year.

 

[Bluefire16]

JDM is a buzzword to sell things to people who don't know better.

While it's true some components provide better power for some vehicles, cars like the DSM, it's not really all that different. After all, our cars were built in Normal IL.

^^ Not all our cars were built in Normal IL, some were built in Tennessee and some other place as well but i cant remember.

And i dont understand you statement, while some components provie better power for some vechicles. Are you saying that because it could be a "JDM" part it would give better power? This is useless information. A Bov will not give you any more power, it will hold more boost than the stock (well a real one should, but i wouldnt trust ebay crap) and make a diff noise. A JDM will not give you +15hp or anything....

Make sure you no what you are talking about.

 

[Achelea]

^^ Not all our cars were built in Normal IL, some were built in Tennessee and some other place as well but i cant remember.

And i dont understand you statement, while some components provie better power for some vechicles. Are you saying that because it could be a "JDM" part it would give better power? This is useless information. A Bov will not give you any more power, it will hold more boost than the stock (well a real one should, but i wouldnt trust ebay crap) and make a diff noise. A JDM will not give you +15hp or anything....

Make sure you no what you are talking about.

No, I didn't mention the BOV at all. I was adressing the JDM aspect, NOT the BOV itself. ((Frankly, a factory 1g BOV would do fine up to 20 lbs, then you need a brand name one.))

Perhaps I paraphrased something and left too much for others to figure out.

Let me explain in this rather long winded and more thoughtful reply.

JDM is Japanese Domestic Make. Which implies it is developed for the Japanese market, and thus, the Japanese market. IE the Fuel, Emissions, crash testing etc etc. As such, the parts are engineered to make better use of the 100 octane fuel over there.

When they are sent over here, they have to meet or exceed the CARB statutes. Which they often do by restricting intake, exhaust, a new ECU, as well as safety features like door beams and such.

So the US gets the slightly weaker, slightly heavier version of the car in Japan. And for the first few years and such, the only source for the performance parts, are components for the Japanese Domestic Market.

So when tuners talk about parts and such for their older Import cars, they mention the JDM Exhaust manifold, Intake, bumper, fender, folding mirrors, so on and so forth.

So, for those cars, the JDM parts really are the better parts. . .

Except now there are plenty of suppliers state side that can meet or exceed the Japanese equivalent. But they don't carry the Japanese kanji, or anything relating to Japan. So if you have the "JDM RULES" mindset, you don't even think about using the American source.


But we drive DSMs. Which are essentially retooled Galant floorpans. Shortened a tad, adjusted here and there, and given a different body.

Since they were made for the American market, and a relatively small percentage were sent over seas, there are not really any JDM parts we can use.

Admittedly, there are several bits and pieces that we use that are strictly Japanese make, such as the Evo components, or bits from the Galants. Or 3000GTs. But for the most part, we identify the car it came from. Not JDM.

So, in closing, as I mentioned before. . . Some components provie better power for some vehicles. Most people don't the research to find out what.

 

[EuroDriver]

Here's a diagram that may help.. found it in another thread

Looks to me like you need that nipple

Good luck

 

[MrBoxx]

That's still putting a boost leak a part that affects the operation of the BOV.

Leave the bottom nipple alone. Since you already broke it off, those diagrams are moot anyway.

 

[Kevindouglas89]

I have everything mounted, and installed now. Everything is working the way it should, but the flutter doesn't sound really like it should, and im assuming it's because its missing that small pressure nipple.

Would it hurt to take a tiny drill bit, and make more of a clear hole to vent better, or is it just best to leave it alone?

Kevin

 

[LiquidX]

The flutter means you don't have your BOV adjusted properly. Also you do have it recirculated correct? Leave the hole alone, it only needs to see atmospheric pressure and enlarging the hole won't make any difference.

 

[Kevindouglas89]

The flutter means you don't have your BOV adjusted properly. Also you do have it recirculated correct? Leave the hole alone, it only needs to see atmospheric pressure and enlarging the hole won't make any difference.

I have it mounted. I have big nipple pressure line hooked up, and I have the larger air valve hooked up "Not sure what its called, but the larger rubber hose is tightly clamped." I did a boost leak test, and im not noticing any air being leaked.

Also, I have the screw on the very top. The screw is all the way on, or off, no inbetweens. I tried both ways, and it doesnt seem to make much of a difference?

 

[LiquidX]

The vacuum line is attached to the intake manifold?

If you are fluttering with full hard and full stiff then pop the cap off and remove the small spring and try again.