The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Project Superman: '90 Talon - building my first drag race car

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

How much stuff do you already have. I feel like when you started this we were giving you advice on what to get or which direction would be a good way to go when you already had your stuff together and were already on a great path. Stop teasing and show us the goods LOL


Hey Slippi84, I'm not trying to tease. I had a basic understanding of what I wanted from reading all the previous build threads, including yours. That's how I was able to give you guys an outline of what I wanted. While waiting to start the build, I picked up some things along the way that I knew I would need or wanted in preparation for the build. I picked up gaskets, bushings, some oem replacement parts, things I knew I would need. The exhaust manifolds, rods, clutch, where supposed to be purchased during the build, however; the sales were so good I had to jump even if I wasn't ready. I saved $500 on the JMF T4 alone. I am not totally lost; years of researching DSMs has given me a great deal of knowledge. But it is all head knowledge; I have never built a race car. But I know if you want to go fast you need good parts. So I bought parts that I saw the big guys run.
 
20k build INC...
Nice setup, basically what I would do save for the T4 mani, still very nice setup =D
wow that things high on those jackstands!

Thanks. I am a big guy so I need all the height I can get to get under there.
 
Not sure what your $ situation is but all of those parts seem to be top of the line! Your moving quickly on this project which is awesome. Just keep in mind how much the other major stuff will run you or this project will come to a quick stop if you run out of parts cash. I know if this were me my piggy bank would be bone dry by now after looking at some those sweet parts. You got plenty of support on your build as you can see though, any time your not sure of something feel free to ask if you can't figure it out. These guys have probably been where your at. Keep it up your doing great!



Thanks, I am not rich by any standards, and I have seen guys get torn apart coming on this site talking about they want to runs 8s, but only have $5000 dollars. I didn't want to go out like that. I have done my research to know that you have to have a plan and some sort of budget. I didn't want to run 11s, or 10s. I wanted to run as fast as possible. So I planned as best as I could. I am spending more than I originally thought, but it's ok for now. I am trying to get the money up for the big things, turbo, drivetrain, engine, etc. I am also saving a lot by doing the work myself. I have never built a race engine, however; I have assembled engines in school. I understand the tools needed and how to do it. It may not be wise to try building your first engine with expensive parts, but, if I don't, I can't afford other things. Thanks again for the feedback.
 
I bet this car's already built and he's just effing with us hahaha.


Hey man; not at all. I respect you guys for your skills and experience. I did my research before I started so as not to waste your time.
 
Yeah your good man we're just messing with the teasing part and you already having it built. You def did it the right way so far. Research and knowing when to hop on a good deal are two things that will make a HUGE difference when building a fast car without having money coming out your ass LOL.
 
Ok guys the tear down continues. Today I was able to finish up most of the interior. I got the AC unit, heater core and carpet out. I am going to follow Gooberlog's advice and scrap off the sound deadening stuff and take those wood pieces off the carpet. I also removed the exhaust (those hangers were tough), transfer case, radiator, condenser and some misc parts. Next week I am going to take some very detailed interior shots so you guys can tell me what wiring I can get rid of. Next week I should be able to get the engine out and finish the tear down.


DSC00350.jpg


DSC00353.jpg


DSC00349.jpg


DSC00355.jpg


DSC00348.jpg
 
Pictures wont help with wiring.. You have to do a search, find the diagram and trace every single wire that goes to a circuit or item you don't use.

That your you can just buy a racing harness.
 
I also picked up these cool solid aluminum mounts from the classifieds. I only have the timing belt and tranny side mounts so far. I am looking to get the side ones shortly.

DSC00344.jpg
 
Also, what do you guys think about those thermal heat coatings for the exhaust system? Does it really make a difference?
 
looking good, getting it down to a shell almost already. How heavy is the heater core and the blower motor boxes in the above picture next to the a/c condensor. Not including the condenssor though, i already have that removed. Wandering if it would be worth it...at some point. Thanks,
Travis
 
Pictures wont help with wiring.. You have to do a search, find the diagram and trace every single wire that goes to a circuit or item you don't use.

That your you can just buy a racing harness.

Thanks. Where can I get a racing harness and how much do thye cost?
 
Let me add my BS [/boom sh!t] . . .Since I've not built a 9 second car, I must know nothing like tha adversary to the above gentlemen in this thread, . . . (can I roll eyes here) never the less, . . .

"GT turbos"??????

"GT turbos" work, but your cost for thier service is utterly ridiculous. Please be open minded. There's no need to pay Garrett GT prices for a 9second turbo. The fastest dsm in the entire universe doesn't run a garrett. . . And, with such a handsome t4 twinscroll setup as you're displaying, I suggest FAR from a "garrett yurrbo", as they don't even have the manpower to describle the advantages of true divided runner tech (call them and ask what a twinscroll setup offers. . .)

Might i add that he also has the FASTEST 4-CYLINDER, FASTEST MODIFIED, FASTEST 3/4 CHASSIS CAR IN THE MOTHERFLIPPING WORLD.:hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah:
 
looking good, getting it down to a shell almost already. How heavy is the heater core and the blower motor boxes in the above picture next to the a/c condensor. Not including the condenssor though, i already have that removed. Wandering if it would be worth it...at some point. Thanks,
Travis

They are not extremely heavy. It is mostly plastic.
 
Hey guys, there is a sale on ETS front mounts. Will the Ultra pro Race kit (dimensions 27x10.5x5" bar and plate core) be sufficient for my horse power goals? Also do you need more than one BOV and is 3 inch piping necessary?
 
Hey guys, there is a sale on ETS front mounts. Will the Ultra pro Race kit (dimensions 27x10.5x5" bar and plate core) be sufficient for my horse power goals? Also do you need more than one BOV and is 3 inch piping necessary?

The ultra pro-race is a crazy big IC. I thought about getting it before I picked up my IC and my biggest concern was the 5" thick core. Not that people haven't used a 5" thick core and not had problems but I just didn't see the need or point in going over 4" thick. Jeff run's a 6" core and makes like 900whp so 5" will work just a matter of do you need it????? Anyway to the bov question I am dealing with this right now. I think if you get 1 Tial "Q" the newer version your good but I think it would take two of the old version to cut it with a big power setup.
 
I had no problems running 50psi at my old horsepower levels with a single old-version TiAL BOV.

As for the new setup, I did change over to a new TiAL Q BOV since I will be supporting over 1000HP and will still be running 50+psi.

The old TiAL BOV was the highest flowing BOV on the market for years, and never really caused a problem with being insufficient for 1000HP. The new TiAL Q BOV flows 60% more air than the old version and can handle ~80psi all day long.

Just be sure to have proper placement of the BOV on the UICP, and have the proper spring installed in your BOV for your application. I am running the pink spring in mine (-20 - -21 in/Hg) -- 11psi spring.
 
I guess the big question is what kinda problems would you see with a old style 50 with 700+whp and a lot of boost? I mean I have never heard anyone say they had problems with a old style but if it was fine and could support that much power without a problem why make a newer version other than to sell more units. Only reason I could think of would be for the the guys running lots of boost and making big power who were running two before. With that said why not just get the new version and call it a day :)
 
I had absolutely no problems with the old version. It functioned the way it was supposed to for the 5 years I ran the original 50mm version. Great product!

The new version was pretty much designed so that it would be more difficult for the chinese knock-off companies to produce. The new design will take longer for the knock-off companies to re-tool and redesign, letting TiAL make more sales of quality parts. It just happened to be a higher flowing BOV than the original one, so it was a win-win scenario for TiAL as they solidified their "Q" BOV as the highest flowing BOV on the market.

You should have absolutely no problems with any of TiAL's BOV or Wastegate designs -- they are one of the best in the business for a reason. I would also rank TurboSmart up there with TiAL, and stand by their products as well!
 
Thanks for the advice. One Bov should be fine. A 5 inch IC is more than I need, but it will give me room to grow.
 
Hey Guys, I just wanted your opinions on the AEM fuel rail. Do they flow well and are they compatible with all fuels (Meth, E85, etc.). Also what do you think about the AEM Cam gears. I see they are having another sale.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top