Project 9's No compromise !!!

[Slippi84]

I"ll do one better

 

[bullettdsm]

How's your build going?

Both are going well, thanks. The NA finally got in the garage and she's going through some changes (some body, some engine). I did finally get someone to make the special grinds, I think . They claim they are making them as we speak.

The turbo car is sitting outside in the cold and the snow. Poor thing. I sent the turbo back for some "adjustments" and Glenn Miller (turboglenn on here) is making me a holding tank for my W/A system.

I made my list and my winter is full this year. I got too much to do

But with your build, I know you can feel my pain.

MB

 

[Slippi84]

Both are going well, thanks. The NA finally got in the garage and she's going through some changes (some body, some engine). I did finally get someone to make the special grinds, I think . They claim they are making them as we speak.

The turbo car is sitting outside in the cold and the snow. Poor thing. I sent the turbo back for some "adjustments" and Glenn Miller (turboglen on here) is making me a holding tank for my W/A system.

I made my list and my winter is full this year. I got too much to do

But with your build, I know you can feel my pain.

MB

Yeah this makes my 420a build I had going on look like a part swap mini project. I have never built a car that (fingers crossed and knock on wood) be as fast or as powerful as this car and I don't want to cut any corner or "make any compramises" so that later on down the road when I'm driven it like I stole it that it doesn't break and put me at risk. Now of course with a big hp car especially racing is breaking but by building a car as best as possible and covering your ass will descrease the chance of dumb stuff happening. We'll see what happens. After looking around I wouldn't mind getting this car into the quick 16 but I"m not gonna get a head of myself first build it right then tune it right then we'll see what she runs.

 

[bullettdsm]

Now of course with a big hp car especially racing is breaking but by building a car as best as possible and covering your ass will descrease the chance of dumb stuff happening.

QFT.

I wish all the people I deal with understood this part. Some of these guys try to build 600whp daily drivers that should last 100k. Racing is hard on parts, period.

But I suspect that I am preaching to the choir on this one. Most people in here realize that.

MB

 

[Slippi84]

QFT.

I wish all the people I deal with understood this part. Some of these guys try to build 600whp daily drivers that should last 100k. Racing is hard on parts, period.

But I suspect that I am preaching to the choir on this one. Most people in here realize that.

MB

True but never hurts to speak the truth.

Another problem with most dsm guysis they don't think about speed in prospective to reality. A stock c6 corvette does the 1/4 mile in like 11.xx sec and these guys are like I want to go 10's. I don't know about anyone else but going 12's is dumb fast for anything on the street. Sure on the track where there is a long road and nothing to relate your speed to like trees houses or other cars, but on the street seeing a house come and go like your riding in the enterprise is something that I don't care how fast you have gone will wake you up quick.

 

[bmoha2]

I got a ride in my friend's Ultima GTR on the street and I just about shit my pants. That's one of the fastest cars out there and a lot of us are building our DSMs to do just that. Frankly it's amazing. I think his car was running low 11s (high 10s?) I forget what the factory spec is. He never took his to the drag track but he did take it to Road America. I got to sit in the passenger seat and found it a harrowing, terrifying and completely exhilarating experience. That some of our DSMs are capable of similar acceleration is flat out amazing.

 

[Slippi84]

Quick question in case anyone knows. I"m ordering a chuette because my gf gave me a kirkey seat cover from summit and it came with a 20% off cupon for any order over $100, and I need to know if a mini chuette is ok for a car running 8-9 sec 1/4 mile times or if you have to have a full sized chuette?

 

[1992awdlaser]

I have never seen a rule where it specifies chute size, that's not to say there isn't one though. I just know you need one over a certain speed which I believe is 150mph. If you run 7.0@148mph you still don't need a chute since you didn't break the speed requirement.

 

[kidderkennels]

Wow...thanx for that seat diagram....good work Slippi

 

[Slippi84]

I have never seen a rule where it specifies chute size, that's not to say there isn't one though. I just know you need one over a certain speed which I believe is 150mph. If you run 7.0@148mph you still don't need a chute since you didn't break the speed requirement.

Yeah but by looking at most of the ET's and trap speeds of most people most mid to low 9 sec cars ran just at 150 so I would rather just have it and be safe then to have to redo stuff to hook one up. I"m just gonna get the mini dragster one. I have to order SFI roll bar padding anyway.

 

[Slippi84]

Wow...thanx for that seat diagram....good work Slippi

NP but I didn't make it I just got it off of kirkey's site.

 

[kidderkennels]

I Figured that....but its good info that I didnt kno about...and I am sure some people needed....

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

i think you are officially allowed to run a chute at 130 but dont have to deploy until 150

Nice build!

 

[Slippi84]

i think you are officially allowed to run a chute at 130 but dont have to deploy until 150

Nice build!

I think you mean have to have one for 130 not allowed because if it was just allowed I don't think many people would run them as most people buy safety stuff because they have too not cause they want to. Even still I plan on running one but the mini's are like $130 vs $3-400 for a full size one.

 

[bullettdsm]

Farting around this morning I ran into this;

Stroud 430264JEGS - Stroud Safety Parachutes - JEGS

Don't know if that helps or not, just FYI

MB

 

[Slippi84]

Farting around this morning I ran into this;

Stroud 430264JEGS - Stroud Safety Parachutes - JEGS

Don't know if that helps or not, just FYI

MB

Well I guess I need to weigh my car then cause what I did was put in about 2800 for stock and then I came up with 460 class of chute. I went straight to Stroud Saftey's site and that's a pro stock level chute and the mini is on there but it's like 3 classes smaller then I would need. I have a lot of weight reduction though so I would need to be at 2200 pounds about according to this chart to only need a mini chute. I'm gonna contact summit and ask them because I need to exchange my kirkey seat cover for a bigger size. My gf tried but you know how girls are with buying car parts.

 

[twicks69]

Well I guess I need to weigh my car then cause what I did was put in about 2800 for stock and then I came up with 460 class of chute. I went straight to Stroud Saftey's site and that's a pro stock level chute and the mini is on there but it's like 3 classes smaller then I would need. I have a lot of weight reduction though so I would need to be at 2200 pounds about according to this chart to only need a mini chute. I'm gonna contact summit and ask them because I need to exchange my kirkey seat cover for a bigger size. My gf tried but you know how girls are with buying car parts.

Slippi -- contact Stroud directly to get the chute tailored to your application -- their chart on the website is not made for our type of application -- as I am expecting to do 160mph, and be around 3000-3200# -- that gives me a 495+ for a rating -- resulting in the use of an Alcohol funny car chute -- which is not likely.

The Stroud chutes are really nice, and the Super Gas chute is likely what you would be recommended to run. The Pro Stock chute should be more than plenty.

The Stroud chutes do require a little more parachute mounting bracketry to be installed vs. a Simpson cross form chute, but they are extremely stable chutes when they are released due to their chute design and mount design.


As well, you need to run a full size chute -- NOT a mini chute -- and yes, I know how much the cost difference is. Expect to be spending 350-600 for the chute, bracketry, release cable, and hardware. It isn't cheap, and you will understand that when it comes to having to pay for all the safety stuff to go as fast as you are looking to go.

Wait on the cage padding until after your cage is completed , and the interior is in its final stages, as you will will need to make custom bracketry to run the Kirkey seats. Personally, I though the seats were way lighter than 13# (I guess I will have to go and weigh the ones I have here -- same P/N as yours).

 

[Slippi84]

Slippi -- contact Stroud directly to get the chute tailored to your application -- their chart on the website is not made for our type of application -- as I am expecting to do 160mph, and be around 3000-3200# -- that gives me a 495+ for a rating -- resulting in the use of an Alcohol funny car chute -- which is not likely.

The Stroud chutes are really nice, and the Super Gas chute is likely what you would be recommended to run. The Pro Stock chute should be more than plenty.

The Stroud chutes do require a little more parachute mounting bracketry to be installed vs. a Simpson cross form chute, but they are extremely stable chutes when they are released due to their chute design and mount design.

I just got off the phone with summit tech line and I'm gonna go with a 10ft simpson. they're a lot of money for a chute but it is what it is. No compramises. My main concern is locking down this build mkaer deal that would put me on the fast track to getting this thing moving.

Edit: Yeah those seats aren't as light as people think. You have to have a sturdy seat that's strong before light and I think that was kirkey's idea too. It' lighter than any otehr type of seat except a CF seat which I'm thinking about getting anyway because I might put two in to make it a little more streetable without putting to much weight back in. My cae is already done and the kirkey seat won't affect where the padding goes as I can place it in where it's going and see which parts of the cage need to be padded but just the seat is next up on the to do list anyway so it will natrually get done first anyway.

 

[Slippi84]

I'm not gonna take it out the wrapping till it's going on but here is my HG that I will be using.

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[Slippi84]

I was bored last night and had some VHT left from my manifold and hotside coating so I did my fuel rail. I did a lighter coat as I only want to keep heat away not in as extreme as the turbo system. I may do one more coat though but it looks good for now.

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[ihatedsms]

You know your supposed to bake the mani for it to work. The metal has to be prepped, then 2000 degree primer then 2000 paint, then let dry for an hour, then baked for 30 mins at 250, they take out let cool for 30 min, then back in the oven for 30 min at 400, then let cool, then 30 min at 600. If you dont it will flake off and wont be chemical resistant.

 

[ihatedsms]

Fuel rail wont matter cause it dosent get hot.

 

[Slippi84]

You know your supposed to bake the mani for it to work. The metal has to be prepped, then 2000 degree primer then 2000 paint, then let dry for an hour, then baked for 30 mins at 250, they take out let cool for 30 min, then back in the oven for 30 min at 400, then let cool, then 30 min at 600. If you dont it will flake off and wont be chemical resistant.

I did bake it. I just posted pictures here but in the link forum I posted the complete install with pictures. I used VHT Flame proof ceramic coating. Here's some pics of the can

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And to doing the fuel rail I will be running the car to 9.5k and hopefully making over 700whp and I would rather over build than under build. I know it may not get that hot but now it will get less hot meaning less heat soak

 

[ihatedsms]

Fuel rail wont matter cause it dosent get hot.

I didnt mean it like that, i meant that it wont matter if you bake it because it wont get too hot so you dont have to.

 

[Slippi84]

I didnt mean it like that, i meant that it wont matter if you bake it because it wont get too hot so you dont have to.

True but VHT said(I called them before I did my manifold for pointers) the coating does not get it's true strength OR heat deterrent advantages until cooked onto the metal. So even though it won't chip it also won't keep the heat away as good until you cook it on.