Street Build Project 1g (NBA DSM)

[Capt Obvious]

You need a brushless pump to "safely" use PWM for speed control. I don't believe the 350 is brushless, but the 525 is.

So, if you had a 525 with a PWM controller you would use the controller to run the pump at say 25% output at low engine speeds and then increase output based on your chosen criteria (engine speed, throttle position, boost pressure, etc.). Doing this keeps the pump cooler since it's not constantly running at full capacity and it also reduces your chances of overrunning the fuel pressure regulator.

 

[jamel16]

Yeah that’s how the tuner explained it to me also. Seeing burn marks on my wiring made me nervous.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Thanks so much for the info! So would the Radium Engineering pressure switch be a good addition with two Walbro 350’s? And that manifold is also new to me, very interested.

 

[jamel16]

Yeah the pressure switch is a good addition. One pump will be used for idle and cruise, once you reach your specified psi, then the 2nd pump will come on. The manifold cleans everything up nicely, it gets rid of all those y-tees. One thing is I think the manifold will fit better with offset pumps, that way the strainers will face the same direction. The pumps I used are the same , so it puts the filters at an odd angle.

 

[92AWDHX40]

All this fuel wiring stuff is controlled with link.

 

[jamel16]

Nope the pressure switch is adjustable with an Allen key between 3-15 psi. You just set the psi, and install the switch at a pressure source. I got mine tee’d with the boost gauge. Next you wire it to the fuel pump and relay and that’s it. It’s very simple.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Oh very nice .

 

[DreamChaser7]

Yeah the pressure switch is a good addition. One pump will be used for idle and cruise, once you reach your specified psi, then the 2nd pump will come on. The manifold cleans everything up nicely, it gets rid of all those y-tees. One thing is I think the manifold will fit better with offset pumps, that way the strainers will face the same direction. The pumps I used are the same , so it puts the filters at an odd angle.

Ok nice sounds great. I have the RTM FPSU and two 350’s but no clue how to set them up proper yet! . This is just the info I needed.

Nope the pressure switch is adjustable with an Allen key between 3-15 psi. You just set the psi, and install the switch at a pressure source. I got mine tee’d with the boost gauge. Next you wire it to the fuel pump and relay and that’s it. It’s very simple.

I would love some pics of all this setup for the dummy noob. You could PM me if not wanting it here. I’m sure all of this and much more I’m intimidated about will seem simple in the rearview when done finally..

 

[jamel16]

I would love some pics of all this setup for the dummy noob. You could PM me if not wanting it here. I’m sure all of this and much more I’m intimidated about will seem simple in the rearview when done finally..

I got you covered, you just interested in the wiring portion?

 

[We're on Boost]

Oh I see, the pressure switch can only take a very small current, so you use it to switch current to the coil side of a relay. Then the switch side of that relay takes the big current to the secondary pump.
The coil in a Bosch or generic 40 amp relay is usually about 90 ohms. So at ~12 volts the relay coil only takes about 130 milliamps. That's the current that would be going through the switch.
That whole arrangement I would probably have totally separate from the primary pump system. The primary pump could just be on a normal "rewire" type system with its own relay, its own fuse, and its own wires. In other words your primary pump system could just stay the way you probably already have it.

 

[jamel16]

Oh I see, the pressure switch can only take a very small current, so you use it to switch current to the coil side of a relay. Then the switch side of that relay takes the big current to the secondary pump.
The coil in a Bosch or generic 40 amp relay is usually about 90 ohms. So at ~12 volts the relay coil only takes about 130 milliamps. That's the current that would be going through the switch.
That whole arrangement I would probably have totally separate from the primary pump system. The primary pump could just be on a normal "rewire" type system with its own relay, its own fuse, and its own wires. In other words your primary pump system could just stay the way you probably already have it.

Yep I left the primary pump system alone, it’s totally separate from the secondary. So if I have a faulty pump, it’s as simple as swapping a power wire.

https://data.radiumauto.com/PublicDocs/19-0109C.PDF

 

[DreamChaser7]

I got you covered, you just interested in the wiring portion?

Cool yea mostly. The wiring stuff is all foreign to me so trying to get as much info as I can before I jump into that part of it from people who obviously know they’re way around it.

 

[jamel16]

Cool yea mostly. The wiring stuff is all foreign to me so trying to get as much info as I can before I jump into that part of it from people who obviously know they’re way around it.

To facilitate a dual fuel pump configuration, ensure that each pump is connected to a separate electrical circuit. The primary fuel pump should be wired in accordance with standard fuel pump rewire protocols.

For the secondary fuel pump, implement the following wiring configuration:

• Connect pin 86 to a 12-volt DC fused power source
• Connect pin 30 to a 12-volt DC fused power source
• Connect pin 85 to one terminal of the pressure switch
• Connect the opposing terminal of the pressure switch to a grounding point
• Connect pin 87 to the 12-volt DC wire supplying the secondary fuel pump
• You can tie pin 86 and pin 30 together into one wire going to the fused power source.

This configuration will enable the secondary fuel pump to operate in conjunction with the pressure switch, allowing for proper system functionality and control.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Excellent info, thank you!

 

[jamel16]

Update:

So I been putting this Pruis EPAS mod off for a while because this was new territory. Although multiple people have done it, there really aren’t any tutorials for the 1g platform. A local Dsm’r did help me get started so his help was much appreciated. I have measurements but unless you follow the exact path I did , they won’t help you much.

I scooped up a Prius EPAS system from the local salvage yard for 43.00, I also bought a second 1g steering column and knuckle from Performance Part Out. First order of business was to find a suitable location, I wanted the EPAS to be tucked out of sight with minimal modifications done to the car. I also wanted to retain the tilt function. I started to disassemble both columns and fab up my first bracket.

 

[jamel16]

Next I started the process of mating the dsm shaft to the Pruis shaft. I measured 10 times and made my cuts and proceeded to weld them together. Next I started trimming down both support tubes on the dsm and Prius columns. Once the shafts were tacked together I started working on the pivot mount bracket. This was by far the hardest part as I tried to mimic the oem orientation while making enough room for the EPAS motor. I used the steering column support bracket as a template.

 

[jamel16]

My next task was connecting the EPAS motor to my dsm de-powered steering rack. The 1g dsm shaft is the perfect length, all I did was swap over the Pruis coupler and it was done. I pressed out the balljoints and swapped everything over. I was surprised the Pruis and our Dsm’s use the same size balljoints.

Last on the list was wiring up the control box. I mounted the box under the dash and proceeded to wiring the connectors. You can find the connector kit on eBay, that way you don’t have to deal with splices.

 

[jamel16]

So in the mist of wiring, I realized I didn’t leave any room for expansion. Everything was starting to look messy and unorganized so I did some cleanup. I transitioned to micro 280 relays and a different power distribution block.

Went from this:

To this:

 

[Moonlight GSX]

Interesting power steering setup sir, I like it. Should have a better feel I am guessing?

As for the wiring, well done on the upgrade. Looks like you picked up the GEP fuse box (fully customizable), good buy for the money and durability (I have two myself that may be used - change of plans).

 

[jamel16]

Interesting power steering setup sir, I like it. Should have a better feel I am guessing?

As for the wiring, well done on the upgrade. Looks like you picked up the GEP fuse box (fully customizable), good buy for the money and durability (I have two myself that may be used - change of plans).

Yeah the power steering should be a game changer. I always admired those GEP fuse boxes and how they cleaned up everything. You can definitely customize it to fit your needs.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Look good men been waiting for updates im just waiting to drive it. Well you finally got together

 

[jamel16]

Update: So in the mist of everything I decided to clean up the ignition and go with a Coil on Plug setup. I went with Denso Toyota Yaris coils with the Antilag Racing plate.

Since I have a 90, I had to perform some extra steps to make sure the tach works. Added two small relays to the tacho interface to create a dummy load. Hopefully everything works .

Next on the list, I updated parts of my exhaust. My goal was to cut down on the drone and raspiness, but with an oem look. First I cut off all the 2-bolt flanges and replaced them with v-bands. Next I installed a 20 in magnaflow round muffler in the center section of the exhaust. I then added a vibrant ultra-quiet resonator at the rear of the exhaust with twin tips. The resonator is small in nature so it tucks very nicely. I will add installed pics tomorrow

 

[1cleangsx]

I’m curious if that setup with your igniter works, I also have a 90 and I love the look of the anti lag racing kit but don’t want to lose my tach signal

 

[Moonlight GSX]

I'm curious if those will compete with the stock coils, I plan to keep watch - keep us posted (I like them).

 

[jamel16]

I’m curious if that setup with your igniter works, I also have a 90 and I love the look of the anti lag racing kit but don’t want to lose my tach signal

Yeah I will keep everyone posted.