The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

problems after install

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Lol. My bad man. I think Im just always in a rush when Im typing so i dont forget what i want to say. :)
 
I don't know if this thread is about the boost problem or porting problems but i thought i would add on instead of creating a new thread. I am also having problems with boost control. Before installing my boost controller I was hitting 20+ psi. Just to let you know I have a T25 still with minimal mods. I decided to install a MBC because i thought the stock BCS crapped out. So now I have it installed and with the bolt unscrewed all the way i hit 18-20 psi and screwing it in almost half way of screwing it in all the way it hits ~22-24 psi. I followed the directions I found in vfaq.com under MBC boost control install and i followed them exactly. Can anyone confirm whether or not it MIGHT BE a bad waste gate spring as well as what I should do if that MIGHT BE the case?
 
EclipseGST-95 said:
I installed the Slowboy Racing manual boost controller http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=1347
Tonight I was driving at WOT and hit 25 psi. The bolt is half way in. I have to adjust it back to all the way out but it will still be hitting 18-20 easily. Suggestions anyone?
Explain how you have it hooked up. Also, does boost shoot straight up in one motion or does it pause at a certain psi then creeps up as RPM increases?
 
Okay, it's installed exactly like it is installed on vfaq. The line from the intake manifold to the back of my greddy type-s bov has a T-fitting right in the middle of it. From the T it does down to my mbc the brass valve that is parallel to the bolt and screw. From there the valve that is perpendicular to the bolt and screw a vacuum line runs to my wastegate. I have the turbo compressor capped off as well as the intake hold capped off... as for my boost solenoid... both hoses are disconnected but the power is still connected.

As for my boost... with the bolt barely in as far out as I can have it without it falling out on its own the psi builds gradually and continues up to 21psi with no pauses what so ever... half way in it goes up a little faster to 25psi...

I hope i've clarified everything for a diagnosis for my problems or problems...
 
Assuming this SBR mbc is a ball/spring type, your hook up is OK but I strongly suggest using the compressor cover fitting for pressure source instead of the BOV line. I'm aware that alot of mbc instructions as well as the vfaq suggests using the BOV line but I respectfully disagree. Let's do some test.

1. Test run with the mbc knob turned all the way out, CCW if you will. If boost drops down to 10-12 psi like it's suppose to, you simply didn't adjust it far enough. If problem persists, go to 2.

2. Test run with the mbc bypassed by connecting the compressor fitting directly to the actuator. If boost drops to 10-12 psi, problem is either with the mbc itself or the installation as well as possible leaky hoses in and out of the mbc. If problem persists, go to 3.

3. The problem is actuator/wastegate flapper related, my guess would be a failed actuator which does not open the flapper, at least not enough.

Hope this helped. Good luck.
 
Okay I will give it a try soon enough. One more questions. Do you have to diconnect the power/wiring to the boost control solenoid? I was thinking that might be messin with my ecu. Maybe I need to disconnect power and reconnect for a reset or unplug the BCS? Let me know if anything else should have been done in regards to the BCS or if im totally off the wall on this one...

Thanks in advance...
 
2G's are required to leave the BCS plugged in, ECU will throw a CEL if you don't, remove all vaccuum lines but leave it plugged in.
 
So here's the problem... my slowboy racing MBC is advertised for not having a bleeder valve and it does... in the brass vavle that is connected to the vacuum line that runs to the wastegate it has a tiny hole drilled in the "nut-part" of the brass valve... i compressed air into the vacuum line that is connected to the intake manifold originally to check for leaks in the lines one of which hadn't been replaced for the install... so i find that the air is leaking out of this brass valve and when I covered it up with my finger the wastegate flipped open (Note: this was when the needle is almost all the way out...I put the needle in all the way and noticed no air comes out of this hole and the wastegate doesnt move which is perfectly fine...my temporary fix was to cut some hose put it over the valves useless bleeder vavle hole and tighten it down with a hose clamp... as for the permanent fix im hopeing brass can be soddered or however u spell it... I emailed slowboy racing and im going to call them tomorrow and request compensation for their product being a pain in the a$$. What do you guys think of this hole or what many call bleeder valve?
 
No, the hole you're talking about isn't the same as a bleeder type mbc, it's call the wastegate pressure relief valve and it's required of all ball and spring type mbc's. If you block off this hole, pressure will be trapped in between the mbc and actuator after letting off the throttle when the ball moves back to its original position causing the flapper to stay open. First step in leak testing is to disconnect or turn the mbc all the way in like you did.
 
yea but the thing is i have it blocked off half-a$$ and the boost is lower its only hitting 18 lbs i pressurized the lines with the hole blocked off as best i could and it was still leaking air it wasnt as good as when i put my finger over the hole... other then that i see no problems with the way i have it installed...i think that hole is pointless on my boost controller... when i hold my finger over it air still leaks out of it somewhere else cus i pressureize the lines from THE VACUUM LINE that runs into the intake manifold and i let off the pressure the wastegate shuts... for lowest boost setting the air compressed in the lines must make the wastegate open... it definitely opens but only when the hole is covered... just isnt making sense
 
I will repeat myself one more time, it doesn't matter how you block that hole during the pressure test but once the car is back in operation, the hole must not be blocked, it's a major component of any ball/spring type mbc.
 
okay well i talked to slowboy and they said they think its another problem...the guy i talked to and myself both agreed that more likely than not its my wastegate... i think that the wastegate isnt opening like it should...im just gonna upgrade turbo to evo III 16g with that 32mm wastegate. keep the boost low until i have the fuel mods and call it a day...
 
Why guess? #2 in post #32 is exactly to verified the condition of the wastegate actuator. Did you follow through with Post #32? Did you change the pressure source from the BOV to the compressor housing/j-pipe?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top