Preseason updates? Show us what you're doing!

[Greg Collier]

These are an incredible deal for someone running these tire sizes….

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RACI...0QQihZ006QQcategoryZ66475QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RACI...4QQihZ006QQcategoryZ66475QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[Slow old poop]

Greg: Does the 1990 ECU have an EPROM? If so, I'll take it.

Rich

 

[Greg Collier]

Greg: Does the 1990 ECU have an EPROM? If so, I'll take it.

Rich

Rich you need to PM me direct. I apologize that I mentioned any of my classified stuff in this forum.

I fell like such a newbie...

 

[4G63FLA]

That is not the current wing on the car correct Greg? Thats the one in the picture of the Laser when it was red? I was going to be looking for a wing like that sometime in the near future. Good deal

~Eddie

 

[Greg Collier]

That is not the current wing on the car correct Greg? Thats the one in the picture of the Laser when it was red? I was going to be looking for a wing like that sometime in the near future. Good deal

~Eddie

Yeah, it's the one I ran before all the major body changes. Definite rear down-force...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=74716&catid=member&imageuser=15378

There's my old TT-Stealth in the picture too... I loved that car! Between the (2)Starions, (2)Talons, (1) Eclipse, (1) TT-Stealth, and (1) Laser, I've been a DSMer since 1987--- oh my gosh, it's my 20-year DSM reunion

 

[4G63FLA]

Yeah, it's the one I ran before all the major body changes. Definite rear down-force...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=74716&catid=member&imageuser=15378

There's my old TT-Stealth in the picture too... I loved that car! Between the (2)Starions, (2)Talons, (1) Eclipse, (1) TT-Stealth, and (1) Laser, I've been a DSMer since 1987--- oh my gosh, it's my 20-year DSM reunion

Hey, whos counting right? Yeah, I saw that pics. Quite a collection you have there Greg. I've only got the TSi and the 04 Mits Outlander SUV. Even the daily driver is a DSM. That wing is a good deal though man. Thanks.

~Eddie

 

[Greg Collier]

Here are some quick tips on questions that I'm frequently asked regarding car safety requirements for racing... or just to do to insure your own butt...

I'm using Pegasus Auto Racing supplier as a quick example guide to the types of products I'll be discussing. I have NO affiliation with them! As a matter of fact I have no affiliation with anybody other than my wife at this point...

I use a SPA mechanical fire system with multi spray nozzles with one being in the engine compartment, two pointed at all the interior wiring (under dash), one that sprays toward my chest, and one that coverers the top of the fuel cell inside the car...

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2426

Main battery cut off switches must have two separate poles on our cars. Even though you might cut off the alternator and the battery the motor with still run. NASA ccr. Requires a full battery disconnect, but to shut down our cars the ECU needs to be shut down. You need a 2-pole cut off switch in order to achieve this...

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=1464

Cut off switch decal needed on the exterior of the car for the corner worker to recognize where the switch is... Race required but a good idea for TT or HPDE!

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=1011

Track Tow hooks one in rear and one in front is required per NASA ccr. Racing only!

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=5348

Tow hook decal decals make sure the tow truck grabs the right thing when necessary. I've seen body panels ripped away because the tow truck driver was unaware....

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=TOW-A

Battery relocation box is necessary per NASA ccr. if your relocate the battery. The box itself should be vented and the hot terminal (positive side) must be covered inside the box. The box and battery itself must be secured to the car deck to avoid any movement during a roll over... As far as the wire itself, I purchased heavy gauge wire from a welding supply shop and saved 75% of the cost of the wire, rather than getting it from an automotive supplier.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=2491

Hope this helps...

 

[4G63FLA]

Thank you VERY much Greg. This helps out ALLOT for me personally.

~Eddie

 

[dwdsm]

Actually finishing my 2 year project .. ..by getting a slotted rotors, valve job, shep tranny, and a 3052 all in the next two or three weeks...Oh and it's at paint right now...I still haven't told them a color though....350z blue or new gen vette orange...I still can't decide and I only have a week or 2!
It's set up for a general road race and whatever kinda racing is available car....and of course I want it to look nice..

 

[underradar92]

Pics of these spindle brackets please.

I finally got my very own digi camera!

And, as promised, after all this time, the pic's.

 

[Elvenhome21]

underadar: how are you routing your ducting

 

[underradar92]

I've got 2" flex duct, since there isn't room for 3". I'll be running that to a piece of 2" thinwall aluminium tubing where they have to sneak past the engine/transmission, respectively, I may have to flatten the tubing slightly to clear. Not entirely sure where the scoops will end up as of yet. I'm prepared to cut plastic where needed. I'll post pic's when I get that far, if the carnage isn't too drastic. Who am I kidding, I'll post regardless.

 

[RusherRacing]

Underradar,

I like your brackets for your brake cooling. Mine are zip tied into the "right" location


Pre Season Update for RusherRacing
I got all the old graphics stripped, the car is awaiting a fresh buff, and new decals applied, black flames. On the roof I am going to have crossed checkered flags on fire (same as my tatoo).

I purchased a set of scales. Was going corner balance the car but the driver rear tire was flat. Went to swap it out with a spare and found one of the lug nuts is in horrible shape and I only have 12pt deep wells at my house. Alot of my tools are still at the folks (used there house for storage during the move). So I decided not to make it any worse and left it.

I did however toss the car on the scales anyway (I was bored). 2575lbs with a half tank of gas and with out me in it, once I get the tire fixed I should have a 50/50 weight distribution without me in the car. i will need to move a few things to level it out with me in the car.

I am still trying to decide on tires. The previous owner ran 225/50/17. I want to go wider but not sure how wide. The problem with tires is theres no magical calculation that can tell you. So I might end up just buying a couple diffenent sizes and testing testing and more testing.

I am still trying to get the correct seat. I purchased a Corbeau Forza II and made it work for two autoX's last season. It doesn't fit low enough in the car to provide the required helmet clearence. I am looking at either the Buddy Club wide, or Ultra Shield Rally Sport does anyone have experience with these seats. I am 6'3" 280lbs so I need a larger seat, however I only have 21" between my cage and the "tunnel".


Ryan Rusher

 

[onegeenewbie]

Hello

Big changes for this race season:

Sold my jetta, picked up a 91 TSI AWD with 27k on it and many bolt ons.

Bought Greg's old laser wheels with tires for rally cross
Bought some FD wheels and tires for autocross
Bought FP performance's race manifold (hoping to pass as stock )
Traded my Corbeau Forza's for Momo Cups
Bought a FMIC, but I'm not sure if I can use it in the classes that i want to compete in
gutted the back half of the car a little bit, maybe some LW parts in the future

Things I still need to get:
-partial engine restore
-new clutch
-engine retune
-new suspension setup (coilovers, rsb, bushings)
-Harnesses

I'm shooting for STX class in autox, and prepared for rally cross. Also looking to do a hill climb or 2 with NEHA this year.

 

[mavisky]

Suspension
Still finishing some of the suspension bushings
Ordered new front swaybar endlinks (had to cut them off)
Ordered up my Koni Yellow's to be sent to Disturbed Racing for new coilovers
Boxed in rear trailing arm to reduce any flex
New tie rod ends and ball joints


Engine bay work
New prothane mounts
Finishing up oil temp sending unit
Relocating oil pressure guage sending unit to remote mount
Installing ps cooler
Eliminating ps cutout


Interior
Mounting 5 point G-force Camlock - awaiting bolts

Still waiting to order the front chin splitter, but that should happen within the next month or two.

 

[400awhpgsx]

Hey I'm still a noob to the forums, but I've had my 98 gsx for a while now. Next week I'll have the following installed:

new ported/polished evoIII head
aeromatice FPR
walbro 255
PTE 680cc
ported/polished 50 trim
dsmlink with full tune

I should be putting down about 400awhp on a mustang dyno.

 

[4G63FLA]

Suspension
Still finishing some of the suspension bushings
Ordered new front swaybar endlinks (had to cut them off)
Ordered up my Koni Yellow's to be sent to Disturbed Racing for new coilovers
Boxed in rear trailing arm to reduce any flex
New tie rod ends and ball joints


Engine bay work
New prothane mounts
Finishing up oil temp sending unit
Relocating oil pressure guage sending unit to remote mount
Installing ps cooler
Eliminating ps cutout


Interior
Mounting 5 point G-force Camlock - awaiting bolts

Still waiting to order the front chin splitter, but that should happen within the next month or two.

Kyle, I'd like to see some pics of your rear trailing arm setup there you did if that is possible. I had orderd some Mechanical gauges to put in my car, Oil Temp, Pressure and Water Temp. Should have gotten Electronic ones. The way they were going to have to weld onto my oil pan and other areas would have been too risky and they did not want to do it. I am NOT a welder and never have claimed to be. So it looks like I have to send them back and get some electronic ones. The Oil Pressure guage was easy to install so at least it wasnt all for a loss. But I am having the Electronic ones overnighted so maybe I can get them in before this weekends event.

I have my second event of the year this Saturday and Sunday so I will have a writeup on Monday. I also picked up some Eagle rods so I am waiting to have those put in as well. I am also about to convert allot of lines (turbo water, oil lines and power steering lines) to all Stainless Steele. Big thanks to Greag Collier for helping me out with sizes and adaptors. When I get everything worked out I will post some pics.

~Eddie

 

[stealthTT]

Kyle, I'd like to see some pics of your rear trailing arm setup there you did if that is possible. I had orderd some Mechanical gauges to put in my car, Oil Temp, Pressure and Water Temp. Should have gotten Electronic ones. The way they were going to have to weld onto my oil pan and other areas would have been too risky and they did not want to do it. I am NOT a welder and never have claimed to be. So it looks like I have to send them back and get some electronic ones. The Oil Pressure guage was easy to install so at least it wasnt all for a loss. But I am having the Electronic ones overnighted so maybe I can get them in before this weekends event.

I have my second event of the year this Saturday and Sunday so I will have a writeup on Monday. I also picked up some Eagle rods so I am waiting to have those put in as well. I am also about to convert allot of lines (turbo water, oil lines and power steering lines) to all Stainless Steele. Big thanks to Greag Collier for helping me out with sizes and adaptors. When I get everything worked out I will post some pics.

~Eddie

A lot of racers will use a sandwich plate to install their oil pressure and temp gauges. The plate is meant to feed an oil cooler and installs between the oil filter and it's housing. But, instead of installing oil cooler hose fittings in the bungs, you install the gauge fittings. This puts the pressure sensor after the oil filter so you can see the pressure there (supposedly the best spot). It's supposedly ideal to measure the temperature there as well.

Link to the procedure with pics:
http://www.supercar-engineering.com/rubberducky/3S/Mods/All/DefiOTP/index.html

 

[4G63FLA]

A lot of racers will use a sandwich plate to install their oil pressure and temp gauges. The plate is meant to feed an oil cooler and installs between the oil filter and it's housing. But, instead of installing oil cooler hose fittings in the bungs, you install the gauge fittings. This puts the pressure sensor after the oil filter so you can see the pressure there (supposedly the best spot). It's supposedly ideal to measure the temperature there as well.

Link to the procedure with pics:
http://www.supercar-engineering.com/rubberducky/3S/Mods/All/DefiOTP/index.html

GREAT.

I will be looking into this for sure. Thanks.

~Eddie

 

[stealthTT]

I finally got my very own digi camera!

And, as promised, after all this time, the pic's.

I'm thinking of doing something similar James. But, I was planning on building a shroud to block the other open areas in the back to "seal" the hole. The idea is to force the air into the center of the rotor and through the vanes instead of escaping out the back side. What do you think?

Link with pics:
http://www.motorsportimage.com/products/racing/brake_cooling_plates.htm

 

[Ludachris]

I'm thinking of doing something similar James. But, I was planning on building a shroud to block the other open areas in the back to "seal" the hole. The idea is to force the air into the center of the rotor and through the vanes instead of escaping out the back side. What do you think?

Link with pics:
http://www.motorsportimage.com/products/racing/brake_cooling_plates.htm

I've seen something similar to those for the EVOs and was thinking of trying to fab something up myself. If anyone else has done something similar please do show us.

 

[mavisky]

Kyle, I'd like to see some pics of your rear trailing arm setup there you did if that is possible. I had orderd some Mechanical gauges to put in my car, Oil Temp, Pressure and Water Temp. Should have gotten Electronic ones. The way they were going to have to weld onto my oil pan and other areas would have been too risky and they did not want to do it. I am NOT a welder and never have claimed to be. So it looks like I have to send them back and get some electronic ones. The Oil Pressure guage was easy to install so at least it wasnt all for a loss. But I am having the Electronic ones overnighted so maybe I can get them in before this weekends event.

I have my second event of the year this Saturday and Sunday so I will have a writeup on Monday. I also picked up some Eagle rods so I am waiting to have those put in as well. I am also about to convert allot of lines (turbo water, oil lines and power steering lines) to all Stainless Steele. Big thanks to Greag Collier for helping me out with sizes and adaptors. When I get everything worked out I will post some pics.

~Eddie

The 1g fwd rear trailing arm is an inverted V with a bushing at either end. I just welded a steel plate the lenght of the arm to turn that V into a trianlge and then welded it sealed. I could take a picture, but there's not much to see.

 

[4G63FLA]

Thats kewl Kyle. Appreciate the info though on that.

Here are some shots of the gauge pod I made in the old factory radio location and the gauges themselves mounted in the pod. I also mounted my Apexi Turbo Timer just underneath the gauges for easy access and reading. All and all now I have 5 gauges; Boost, EGT, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Water Temp. Plus the Air/Fuel Ratio built into the Apexi Turbo Timer.

A shot of the factory radio taken out and the space it left.

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Here is a shot of the gauge pod I made from ABS plastic and painted flat black to match the rest of the area it was goin in.

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And here are a few shots of the gauges mounted in the pod and the gauge pod mounted back into where the factory radio was.

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~Eddie

 

[underradar92]

I'm thinking of doing something similar James. But, I was planning on building a shroud to block the other open areas in the back to "seal" the hole. The idea is to force the air into the center of the rotor and through the vanes instead of escaping out the back side. What do you think?

Link with pics:
http://www.motorsportimage.com/products/racing/brake_cooling_plates.htm

Been toying with that very idea, it'd be super easy to add a plate to my tubes. in all honesty, I don't have the traction or skill to tax my brakes to the extent where I really even need the vents, but I figured, what can it hurt. Using that logic, I may just as well just go make the plates right away. Pic's on the way!

 

[eclipse2via]

A lot of racers will use a sandwich plate to install their oil pressure and temp gauges. The plate is meant to feed an oil cooler and installs between the oil filter and it's housing. But, instead of installing oil cooler hose fittings in the bungs, you install the gauge fittings. This puts the pressure sensor after the oil filter so you can see the pressure there (supposedly the best spot). It's supposedly ideal to measure the temperature there as well.

Link to the procedure with pics:
http://www.supercar-engineering.com/rubberducky/3S/Mods/All/DefiOTP/index.html

A sandwich adapter puts the oil filter really close to the downpipe on a DSM. Bigger the the pipe the closer it comes. I've gone back to a 2.5" O2 eliminator DP for that reason.