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4G63FLA said:
What oil do you use?

Pretty much a 50/50 mix of Mobil 1 10w30 and 20w50. You can't get their 20w50 anymore I believe but you can get a heavier weight extended fill oil from them. I've been reading that Mobil 1 has reduced the quality of their base stock again. So I'm thinking about switching to straight Redline 20w50 because of the majority of trackdays I do are 90's and above.
 
Pretty much a 50/50 mix of Mobil 1 10w30 and 20w50. You can't get their 20w50 anymore I believe but you can get a heavier weight extended fill oil from them. I've been reading that Mobil 1 has reduced the quality of their base stock again. So I'm thinking about switching to straight Redline 20w50 because of the majority of trackdays I do are 90's and above.

Thanks for the input. I have thought as the months getter hotter here in Florida to go to the Red Line 20w50 oil myself.

~Eddie
:talon:
 
More pics please!
This is as far as I've gotten on that project. I'll need my new struts to accurately route the tubing. My urethane engine mounts are in though.:sneaky: I'll be posting pics of my downpipe modifications which I just completed today. :cool:
 

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I've got 2" flex duct, since there isn't room for 3". I'll be running that to a piece of 2" thinwall aluminium tubing where they have to sneak past the engine/transmission, respectively, I may have to flatten the tubing slightly to clear. Not entirely sure where the scoops will end up as of yet. I'm prepared to cut plastic where needed. I'll post pic's when I get that far, if the carnage isn't too drastic. OMG Who am I kidding, I'll post regardless. :cool:
Jim, have you tested to make sure your hose will clear the axle when the suspension is compressed?? Where are you getting your thin-wall tubing?

It sucks that we have to mount these brackets rearward of the axle. It seems like it will cause more problems with the routing.

***edit - just saw that you replied and said you haven't mounted your shocks yet ***
 
Jim, have you tested to make sure your hose will clear the axle when the suspension is compressed?? Where are you getting your thin-wall tubing?

It sucks that we have to mount these brackets rearward of the axle. It seems like it will cause more problems with the routing.

***edit - just saw that you replied and said you haven't mounted your shocks yet ***
The tubing is some stuff that was laying around the shop where I work. I think I will be routing the duct alongside the strut, against the frame, essentially. It looks like if I rivet or zip-screw a short length of the aforementioned tubing to the sheetmetal, and flatten it a bit, it should clear. I'll post the results.

Here is my latest project. Can you tell I'm a machinist, not a welder? Pic #1 shows the welding/mockup block, this d.p. started life as a RNR internal recirc. piece, that I made external recirc. I kind of guessed on the angle and location and as you can see, it's close, but it does clear everything. OMG :thumb:
 

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I think you're going to have trouble with boiling PS fluid and alternator failures.
In all reality, only the diaphragm housing is any closer to the pump and alternator than before I added the external into the dump.

I am also working on some heat sheilds and an aluminium cam belt cover, so I'm not worried in either case.:cool:

*edit* That coupled with the fact that I will never have a FMIC (preheater) and I have a high flow hood extractor, and I'm really not concerned. *edit*
 
I don't know how low your summer ambient temps are but I've boiled PS fluid on a upgraded SMIC 16G setup. Think about getting a good cooler too if you run it on more than autoX. I'm not being critical it's just one of the issues I've had when tracking my 1G.

I'm still waiting for my first alternator failure though. It's one of those things I scratch my head at when others tell about going through one after another. 16 years and a lot of track days. <knocks on wood>
 
I don't know how low your summer ambient temps are but I've boiled PS fluid on a upgraded SMIC 16G setup. Think about getting a good cooler too if you run it on more than autoX. I'm not being critical it's just one of the issues I've had when tracking my 1G.

I'm still waiting for my first alternator failure though. It's one of those things I scratch my head at when others tell about going through one after another. 16 years and a lot of track days. <knocks on wood>
No offense taken. Summers can get 90*+ with near 100% humidity around here. The last 2 summers, I've had the same downpipe on the car, both wrapped and not, and I have been track daying it twice a year, with no issues yet. ( knocking lots of wood) I do run Redline p.s. fluid, my previous setup had a heat deflector on the pump (I'm making a larger one, including a deflector for the alternator) and the temps during previous track days have been admittedly cool.

I am considering a way to cool the fluid since the stock "cooling tube" is likely to rust thru soon.:notgood: I plan on posting pics of all this stuff when it's done.

Also decieving is the proximity of the exhaust manifold, that brand new SBR is in place for mockup pourposes only, my heat coated FP manifold is on the way, as soon as that first run ships. Sweeeeet!
 
No offense taken. Summers can get 90*+ with near 100% humidity around here. The last 2 summers, I've had the same downpipe on the car, both wrapped and not, and I have been track daying it twice a year, with no issues yet. ( knocking lots of wood) I do run Redline p.s. fluid, my previous setup had a heat deflector on the pump (I'm making a larger one, including a deflector for the alternator) and the temps during previous track days have admittedly cool.

I am considering a way to cool the fluid since the stock "cooling tube" is likely to rust thru soon.:notgood: I plan on posting pics of all this stuff when it's done.

Also decieving is the proximity of the exhaust manifold, that brand new SBR is in place for mockup pourposes only, my heat coated FP manifold is on the way, as soon as that first run ships. Sweeeeet!

Mitch (engintechs) knows of a bracket that puts both the alternator and ps pump on the opposite side. It might also be time for the 2-gal water bottle and Home Depot pump and drip system spary nozzles...OMG
 
Mitch (engintechs) knows of a bracket that puts both the alternator and ps pump on the opposite side. It might also be time for the 2-gal water bottle and Home Depot pump and drip system spary nozzles...OMG
I know of the relocation brackets, downside of them is they necessarily eliminates my A/C. May sound dumb, but the A/C inclusion on this project is necessary to control the potential "stupidity factor" that all of my past projects invariably die of.
 
I know of the relocation brackets, downside of them is they necessarily eliminates my A/C. May sound dumb, but the A/C inclusion on this project is necessary to control the potential "stupidity factor" that all of my past projects invariably die of.

I've "heard" that the drag of an AC pump (even when it's not active) increase engine temps by 7-10 percent...
Not including the ton-age.
 
the ac pump has even less drag then an alternator when the clutch is disengaged so thats not the issue, BUT it IS 30 lbs of dead weight that can be eliminated. I guess further south ac is a must have item, but in wisconsin its not to big of a deal to not have ac.

2-70 rule applies
 
Rebuilding my tranny, pretty basic rebuild as I dont have the $ for something fancey. Add to that a ACT 2600 clutch & PP with an XACT 12lb flywheel. Going to install the larger duel piston caliper setup and TCE drilled & slotted brake rotors. Some ARP hardware & crank scraper. Along with some 5Zigin 17x8" 17lb wheels. And if I have enough money the best quality CF oem style hood I can get as well as some header wrap from the O2 houseing back.

Not sure how much I will actualy get done since I just got maried and about to have a kid. But thats what I would LIKE to get done.


Edit- I also completely removed the AC from my car last season as part of my attempt to reduce the weight on the front of the car. Im not sure what the average setup runs far as temps but my car with it's FMIC and Koyo rad rarely goes over 185*F. When just curseing on a warm day it stay's around 180*
 
the ac pump has even less drag then an alternator when the clutch is disengaged so thats not the issue, BUT it IS 30 lbs of dead weight that can be eliminated. I guess further south ac is a must have item, but in wisconsin its not to big of a deal to not have ac.

2-70 rule applies

I lived in Racine a hundred years ago... I heard they don't roll up the streets until 7:30 PM now :D
 
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