Preseason updates? Show us what you're doing!

[4G63FLA]

I was impressed by the Miata when I saw what 102hp could do in auto-x. I had the same idea and used metal bar stock to make a battery tie down. I used a long bolt for the side closest to the motor and used the strut bolt for the other side. Worked like a charm and no movement at all. And for what it's worth, I love my HP+ pads .

Do your HP+ pads make allot of noise until they get nice and warmed up? I have heard from several people they do this. Have you tried the HPS pads before? I was wondering if they make this sound as well. Thanks.

~Eddie

 

[boosted_91_tsi]

Do your HP+ pads make allot of noise until they get nice and warmed up? I have heard from several people they do this. Have you tried the HPS pads before? I was wondering if they make this sound as well. Thanks.

~Eddie

Well I used them driving on the street every great once in a while and they would squeal a bit until I laid into them but on course, I have never had them fade or make any noises that I am aware of. I usually drag my brakes a bit going from grid to the start line to get a little bit of heat in them. My first event with the new pads and Ford HD fluid, people were saying that when I brake hard, my tires would nearly rub in the wells and the whole day I kept braking WAY too early and had to get back on the gas and pull myself through the gate. I have grown to trust them now and they never let me down. A few of my friends use the HPS pads for DD as well as that 1 - 2 visits to an auto-x per month with no problems or noises. One of them uses them on his Zo6 which never sees a public road. It's a 2004 with just over 7000 miles (6500 of which are on a course) if that tells you anything about how they hold up. He is a national level driver with a lot of experience, seat time, and many many Evo Schools under his belt. He loves the Hawk pads and helped me choose to throw a set on my car. I would say the HP+ would/should be used for off-road only while the HPS makes it a somewhat better street-able pad.

 

[4G63FLA]

Thanks ALLOT Danny. That puts my mind at ease on the brake upgarede from Extreme PSI that I want. it comes with the HP+ Pads and I was a bit concerned with what I heard a little about them. having heard yours and your friends experience with them, I believe they will be the right pad for my car. It sees VERY little street time as it is now. So I am not worried about that portion of them. Thanks again Danny.

~Eddie

 

[Slow old poop]

As far as the Stoptech's do you have picture's pf the carnage? I have noticed some pretty decent spider cracking on mine and I am FWD.

No pix.

I know that some people swear by Stoptechs, but I am unimpressed. They certainly stop the car with no problems, but the incessant cracking of rotors really bugs me. I cracked three rotors in a single season! Also, the Stoptech rotors cost twice ($240 a pop) what a rotor should cost.

I do tend to USE my brakes, no doubt. I wait until the last possible microsecond, then slam them on to just this side of lockup. Some folks call that threshold braking. I can outbrake M3s and 911s this way, and it feels like hitting a brick wall when I do it. But that's the way race brakes are supposed to work (as I understand it).

If I was starting from scratch, I wouldn't buy Stoptechs. I am hoping that the mod by Supercar Engineering (widening the Stoptech calipers to accommodate thicker rotors) will cure the cracking problem, but that means the total cost to get a good set of Stoptech brakes far exceeds that of an equivalent system. And then the excessive costs of rotors remains.

The best system I ever saw (for the money) was based on widened Porsche Big Red calipers on a 14-in, very thick two-piece Coleman rotor. This was custom-built by Supercar Engineering for my buddy's 3000GT. It took two laps just to warm up the brakes! Would that Supercar built something similar for DSMs.

Watch that spider cracking, by the way. That's how they start. Then they crack all the way across. Best you should order another set ($480!!!) for the new season, and keep the spider-cracked ones for spares.

Rich

 

[4G63FLA]

Rich - I was reading somewhere that most of the cracking/breaking problems on the Stop Techs were with their Drilled Rotors and not so much with just the Slotted ones. Now I am not pimping the brand by any means, but one of the break upgrades I was looking at my for my 97 TSi was using Stop Tech rotors (Slotted). Is this cracking/breaking problem just a few incidents or is it a real problem with their rotors?

With all the cracks you had, was it the drilled or slotted rotors you were experiencing this with? Thanks.

~Eddie

 

[schemauer]

No offense to the RaceOne splitter posts above, but you can go to your local plastics supplier and have them cut you a piece of similar material for less than that. In fact - go one better and make a template of the shape you want and give it to them. In a few minutes you'll have a splitter that actually fits your car well and for less $$.

 

[Slow old poop]

Rich - I was reading somewhere that most of the cracking/breaking problems on the Stop Techs were with their Drilled Rotors and not so much with just the Slotted ones. Now I am not pimping the brand by any means, but one of the break upgrades I was looking at my for my 97 TSi was using Stop Tech rotors (Slotted). Is this cracking/breaking problem just a few incidents or is it a real problem with their rotors? With all the cracks you had, was it the drilled or slotted rotors you were experiencing this with? Thanks. ~Eddie

Hate to bust your bubble, but it was the slotted ones that cracked (no racer runs driilled rotors--they are only for cruising the boulevard, or for show-n-shiners). I got my last set of slotted rotors cryo-treated and they lasted a lot longer, but still cracked.

The Stoptech rotors are simply too narrow for our heavy cars. They worked great on Greg Collier's car, but the Banana only weighed 2100 lb. Either drop 1,000 lb off your '97 or find another set of brakes with a fatter rotor. Damifino which one that would be.

Like I said, I wish Supercar Engineering would pay more attention to our cars and come up with a really good kit. That dude really knows his brakes. Why don't you give him a shout? (email Philip at [email protected]) He understands our problem and is modding my Stoptechs accordingly. Now that he has made a template to expand Stoptech calipers, maybe he'll sell you a killer set of brakes for a few hundred more than a set of standard Stoptechs.

Rich

 

[boosted_91_tsi]

I was reading here about people using a splitter. I do not know much in the way of track events beyond auto-x but I hope to change that in the near future. At what speed would a splitter become effective. I don't think it has much ,if any, effect at auto-x in a car as heavy as mine and I am not planning on using one but just curious as to when it does become an effective piece of hardware.

 

[4G63FLA]

Hate to bust your bubble, but it was the slotted ones that cracked (no racer runs driilled rotors--they are only for cruising the boulevard, or for show-n-shiners). I got my last set of slotted rotors cryo-treated and they lasted a lot longer, but still cracked.

The Stoptech rotors are simply too narrow for our heavy cars. They worked great on Greg Collier's car, but the Banana only weighed 2100 lb. Either drop 1,000 lb off your '97 or find another set of brakes with a fatter rotor. Damifino which one that would be.

Like I said, I wish Supercar Engineering would pay more attention to our cars and come up with a really good kit. That dude really knows his brakes. Why don't you give him a shout? (email Philip at [email protected]) He understands our problem and is modding my Stoptechs accordingly. Now that he has made a template to expand Stoptech calipers, maybe he'll sell you a killer set of brakes for a few hundred more than a set of standard Stoptechs.

Rich

Thanks Rich. Good to know. Thanks for Philip's E-Mail as well. I will be droping him a line shortly to see what he has going on. You said he is modifing your Stop Techs, what is he doing to them? Just widening the calipers from them or what? I have till April before I get on the track circut , so I have a fwe months to find a good setup for brakes. The ones I currently have are ok for AutoX, and some lite track time. Thanks again Rich.

p.s. - What do you think of these brakes rich? http://www.vipgarageonline.com/store/item/1epdd/Brake_Kits/Full_Hi-Per_Kit_w/_Hawk_HPS.html I would upgrade to SS brake lines though.

~Eddie

 

[mavisky]

I was reading here about people using a splitter. I do not know much in the way of track events beyond auto-x but I hope to change that in the near future. At what speed would a splitter become effective. I don't think it has much ,if any, effect at auto-x in a car as heavy as mine and I am not planning on using one but just curious as to when it does become an effective piece of hardware.

That depends on how big the splitter is. You could theoretically produce 500 pounds of downforce at 5mph, it might take a splitter the size of a garage door to do it though.

Given the sizes of most splitters, I'd guesstimate they start having an effect right around highway speeds and on up.

Don't forget though that you can go too big on the front splitter. Your 100lbs of downforce at 50mph could turn into 500lbs at 120mph and without a way to balance the aero on the rear you can end up with a car that rotates great at 50mph, but at 120 it tries to back itself into a wall like a mid-80's porsche. That's why Greg had to go with the larger rear wing on his laser.

I'm still debating what I'm going to do about this situation. Unbalanced aero FTL

 

[lethal_vr4]

You said he is modifing your Stop Techs, what is he doing to them? Just widening the calipers from them or what?

A spacer is milled with brake fluid passeages to fit between the caliper halves. I'll see if I can get a pic for you of my Supercar Engineering modified Brembo's (I'm the buddy slowoldpoop referred to).

As for my changes on my VR-4:
Replaced 4 point roll bar with 10 point cage (in process)
Seal welding
complete ABS removal
GT28RS turbos
New exhaust.

Ceramic coat everything

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[4G63FLA]

lethal_vr4 - Pics would be geart man. I am looking to upgrade my brake setup before heading to Road Atlanta, Talladega Motor Park and Roebling Road this spring and summer. Begining around the 1st of April. I want to make sure I dont get the wrong thing or put something on the car that is not going to last at least this season you know? Any help you can point my direction would be GREATLY welcomed. Thanks.

~Eddie
[email protected]

 

[underradar92]

Adding front brake ducts, the spindle brackets are done.
Black ABS splitter. Not started.
Installing my tubular f/control arms .55" further forward and with delrin rear bushings.
Install camber bolts.
Upper pillow mounts with more caster built in.
External w/g in the downpipe. 1/2 done
50 trim (Surprise!) On it's way.
EVO-style MAF sensor.
Dejon SMIC and home brew piping. Not started.
Modded adjustable 1g BOV. Done.
9x17 TDR wheels (undecided on tires as of yet) and sell old ones.
Possibly a set of Koni yellows, with 12kg/10kg springs.
All different brake tubing, with an adj. prop. valve and no ABS !! Removed.
Boxed rear lower control arms with poly bushings. Done.
Toe eliminators. 1/2 done
Aluminium rear subframe bushings. 1/2 done.
2 pc. (instead of 3) driveshaft. 1/2 done.
Delete rear seat & carpet the area. Not started.
Fix driver...

A lot of this is on hold due to unforseen financial slowdown. The actual work is going on albeit a tiny bit at a time, as it's almost Iowa cold here in WI & my unattached garage is as yet uninsulated and unheated. This may take a lot longer than 'till April 14/15.

 

[Ludachris]

A spacer is milled with brake fluid passeages to fit between the caliper halves. I'll see if I can get a pic for you of my Supercar Engineering modified Brembo's (I'm the buddy slowoldpoop referred to).

As for my changes on my VR-4:
Replaced 4 point roll bar with 10 point cage (in process)
Seal welding
complete ABS removal
GT28RS turbos
New exhaust.

Ceramic coat everything

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Let's see some pics newbie!

Just messing with you - but I would like to check out the VR4. Nice to see some more wheel-turners getting involved.

 

[4G63FLA]

I'd like to see some pics of that new roll cage you are putting in there. By the end of summer I will be putting one in my TSi, want to see how yours is looking. I also just got my ARP Main Studs and Head Studs in last night as well as my Cometic Head Gasket. Those will be going on after this weekends event. Slowly but surely getting there.

Here is my latest mod on the car. A track bar (DG Industries Chassis Strengthening Bar). Cant wait to see how it works out on the track this weekend.

It's the top one in the picture.

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~Eddie

 

[mavisky]

Adding front brake ducts, the spindle brackets are done.

Pics of these spindle brackets please.

 

[underradar92]

Pics of these spindle brackets please.

Soon as I can borrow the durn digi. camera again. Or finally buy one.

 

[pkieley]

Heck Jim, send me your civic and I will send you a camera! Seriously I got a freebee here that I dont use.

I want pics of the rear toe eliminator install!

Do I have to do any cutting? Or just out with the old and in with the new and weld around that curved lip?


I'll update my activities a little later this month probably. Mostly "bolt-on" stuff, but I do have a bit of custom work to show.

Last season was a bust...I made it to my licencing course in the Stealth and that was it. The logistics WILL come together this year!

Phil

 

[Slow old poop]

p.s. - What do you think of these brakes rich? http://www.vipgarageonline.com/store/item/1epdd/Brake_Kits/Full_Hi-Per_Kit_w/_Hawk_HPS.html I would upgrade to SS brake lines though.

~Eddie

First of all, I don't like any rotor that's been drilled. Like I said, they are OK for cruising the blvd and show 'n shiners, , but they crack right at the holes when you use them hard. Holes and slots are just for show, mostly. I druther have a solid rotor, because there is more braking area.

Second, I tried Hawk Blues once, and found they eat your rotors. They seem to work OK on the track when hot, but when cold they squeak and squawk and cut deep grooves in the rotors. I don't know if HPS pads are the same as Blues.

I see this kit doesn't have calipers, so it is obviously using stock calipers and just replacing the rotors and pads. For a stock system, it would be better to simply buy a bunch of stock rotors at Autozone ($19.95 each) and replace them when they warp. For pads, I like Carbotechs, because you can use them on the street, and they last a long time.

For a stock setup, I'd use stock rotors and go to SupercarEngineering to get Carbotechs, SS lines, and Motul brake fluid in a package price. Yes, I know, it's not on his web site--you gotta ask Philip.

Rich

 

[underradar92]

I want pics of the rear toe eliminator install!

Do I have to do any cutting? Or just out with the old and in with the new and weld around that curved lip?

Phil

Looks like just weld 'er in there! I've only gotten 1 trail arm out so far, took 3 cheap sawzall blades to cut the bolt, and then the frostbite started to take over. I'll update you if I remember.

I've got so many things going on at once out there, the car looks like everything just fell off and laid there! Total disaster. I hope I remember how to put it back together.

My project of the moment is making the wastegate flanges and modifying my downpipe to install them. I'm actually learning to TIG it myself, but it ain't too pretty, since it is kind of scaley and its my first try.

Civic? I'll p/m you.

 

[mavisky]

First of all, I don't like any rotor that's been drilled. Like I said, they are OK for cruising the blvd and show 'n shiners, , but they crack right at the holes when you use them hard. Holes and slots are just for show, mostly. I druther have a solid rotor, because there is more braking area.

Second, I tried Hawk Blues once, and found they eat your rotors. They seem to work OK on the track when hot, but when cold they squeak and squawk and cut deep grooves in the rotors. I don't know if HPS pads are the same as Blues.

I see this kit doesn't have calipers, so it is obviously using stock calipers and just replacing the rotors and pads. For a stock system, it would be better to simply buy a bunch of stock rotors at Autozone ($19.95 each) and replace them when they warp. For pads, I like Carbotechs, because you can use them on the street, and they last a long time.

For a stock setup, I'd use stock rotors and go to SupercarEngineering to get Carbotechs, SS lines, and Motul brake fluid in a package price. Yes, I know, it's not on his web site--you gotta ask Philip.

Rich

HPS pads are not racing pads what-so-ever. You run them on the street well, and they can do some autoxrosses, but don't try to track the car with them. They're one notch down from the HP+ pads that I have, which themselves aren't even true racing pads, but merely the highest rated "street" pads that Hawk sells.

 

[pagosa dsm]

nothing gets done in the winter. that is snow skiing season. next week i will go to chamonix france to extreme ski. maybe check out the geneva auto show. then when i get back i will finish my suspension. i will build front and lower rear control arms. build solid rear sub frame bushings and modd the shifter with sealed bearings and rod ends. i am also looking for ideas to stiffen the chassis like an evo. i agree the hatch has more flex than a deck lid but i think 4 doors flex more than 2 doors. i woul like to build a g-bar system. i also have to pick new springs. i am looking forward helping ecipsh with his upgraded suspension modds

 

[4G63FLA]

First of all, I don't like any rotor that's been drilled. Like I said, they are OK for cruising the blvd and show 'n shiners, , but they crack right at the holes when you use them hard. Holes and slots are just for show, mostly. I druther have a solid rotor, because there is more braking area.

Second, I tried Hawk Blues once, and found they eat your rotors. They seem to work OK on the track when hot, but when cold they squeak and squawk and cut deep grooves in the rotors. I don't know if HPS pads are the same as Blues.

I see this kit doesn't have calipers, so it is obviously using stock calipers and just replacing the rotors and pads. For a stock system, it would be better to simply buy a bunch of stock rotors at Autozone ($19.95 each) and replace them when they warp. For pads, I like Carbotechs, because you can use them on the street, and they last a long time.

For a stock setup, I'd use stock rotors and go to SupercarEngineering to get Carbotechs, SS lines, and Motul brake fluid in a package price. Yes, I know, it's not on his web site--you gotta ask Philip.

Rich

Thanks Rich. I will be getting in touch with Philip there at the end of the month to get some brake upgrade parts.

~Eddie

 

[Evan K.]

Consider some Porterfield R4-E pads with stock rotors. They do chew up rotors when cold but the car always stops when they get hot. Besides as Rich said rotors are cheap. I still use R4-e's on the street on the 1g.

 

[4G63FLA]

I have been looking into the Porterfields thank you. Like Rich and you said, I might just try some stock rotors with the R4-Es first and see where I am at. As well as some SS lines. Thanks.

~Eddie