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Post your stroker setup (turbo, injectors, timeslips, dyno #'s...)

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DSMKevan said:
Oh yeah, now I also have to decide WHICH 50 trim to get! Im very close to AMS, but I heard theyre expensive?

VERY ... I spent over 2k and was about to spend another 2-3k there so you would think they would give you some sort of break on some of their prices right? No way!!! I got an estimate and asked if they could take off anything if I pay cash and they said not really. I ended up getting everything a whole lot cheaper elsewhere. Call RRE .. they have good prices and fast shipping. Really nice guys there.
 
when i put my 2.3 in my car, it will be running with a gt35r, 780 cc injectors and tuned with dsmlink. i usally buy everything from ams eric is a great guy and beats everyones price. my 2.3 block and new head will be bought from them.

if you buy there custom made stuff yes it is more exspensive because it is made from the best stuff and is made correct unlike some of these other manufactures. there stuff is top of the line and is guaranted by them. all you have to do is look at the shop 1g (tims car who is making over 700hp on boost alone. :thumb:
 
god dont use a reman'd crank guys.
 
how bad do you guys think a stock head and cams will hurt a 2.3. i want to rebuild my 6 bolt for my car and i can't afford a full race head right now.
 
JAM 2.3L block and CNC stage 1 head coming next month. I'll be going with a PTE SCM turbo for now, though eventually will probably upgrade to a FP setup. Will the 56 trim be a good choice for 91 octane (CA) road course, drag strip and autoX, or should I go smaller? I know with the 2.3L you get better spool on the larger turbos, but I can't seem to find what the right choice would be to keep the 16g-like spool I have with my 2.0L motor and still put down big power with pump gas (anywhere in the 400-500 whp range is fine).

I was leaning toward a 60 trim SCM-6031E (59mm compressor wheel and 76 trim turbine wheel):

http://www.precisionturbo.net/turbochargers-display.php?company_id=101795&category_id=3024

Any feedback? And please don't suggest other turbos, as I'm pretty much locked into the PTE due to a good deal I'm getting. Just help me choose a size.
 
I"m running now a 2.3L with a stock 2g head, stock exhaust manifold and a SBR G60-1 (turbo is made by PTE). I like it alot. I was super surprised to find that I am getting full boost (20psi) right at 3500rpm. I think with cams, a ported manifold, and better tuning spool could be reduced even more! I love the 60-1 with this engine. :thumb:
 
98 gsx, 6 bolt, Ross/Eagle 2.3, FP Red & 3" tubular o2, BJ's Stage IV head, Magnus intake, GM Maf (blow thru), 2-216 core FMIC, N/X 100 shot, 3" exh., twin disc puck clutch, 950's, DSMLink, aquamist 2s, some other odds and ends
 
I would advise against a SCM series turbo, expecially if you are concerned with response. Those hybrid housings simply do not perform as well as the housings designed by Garrett / MHI to work with their respective wheels.

I would run a straight garret GT series, probably a GT30R, or maybe a FP3052 (almost the same as a 30R anyway).
 
kpt4321 said:
I would advise against a SCM series turbo, expecially if you are concerned with response. Those hybrid housings simply do not perform as well as the housings designed by Garrett / MHI to work with their respective wheels.

I would run a straight garret GT series, probably a GT30R, or maybe a FP3052 (almost the same as a 30R anyway).
I would like to go full Garrett eventually, however, I don't think I'm ready to dish out the money for a new manifold, O2 housing and external wastegate. Plus, here on the west coast an external wastegate causes many problems for those trying to pass smog, not to mention if you get pulled over around here, cops tend to know they aren't legal. I'm trying to keep everything as "sleeper-like" as possible.

I know the Mitsu turbine housing isn't the perfect design, but at this point, I'm pretty much cornered into using it. What would be a decent middle ground for power and spool?
 
For guys wanting results from 2.4 and 2.3 builds I found a few of my old posts,

Here and here and here

I do 126 traps and make 468 to the wheels on pump gas. Decent numbers on race gas too. Maybe when it gets colder I will break 600 wheel. This is the only way to go if you are rebuilding.
 
My current setup, 2.4l, eagle rods, 9:1 Ross pistons, 1G head with the bowls cleaned up and exhaust divider knife edged, stock valvetrain, HKS 264s, stock 1G intake, Pina motorsports cast exhaust manifold, GT35r comp wheel in a -14 garret cartridge with a GT30R turbine wheel and a mitsu housing, Pina 3" o2 housing, supra pump, Buschur/sx regulator, ND 720s (rochester 96lb going in this week), and an AEM ems.
I get 20psi at 4k and useable boost at 3k. The car drives very well on the street, I'm suprised for a turbo of this size. For your needs Chris I still say 3052, I don't have a standard T4 wheel that I really like in the midrange sizes.

With a blown headgasket (40% leakdown on #4, 25% between 2 and 3, helps to remember to turn the knock control back on) I ran a 12.3 at 115 with 17psi on pumpgas.

Dave no matter what anyone says I swear to god you really put down over 500 to the wheels. Have you run this year, I don't remember hearing anything about your car? If so how are those tires working for you? I have to figure out some better tires next season, it's either bog or spin, no in between. Nothing like pulling 1.90 all day long when I used to do 1.75s :rolleyes:
 
NDgsx said:
Dave no matter what anyone says I swear to god you really put down over 500 to the wheels.
468 at 23lbs in a hot awd dyno room is pretty damn close.


NDgsx said:
Have you run this year, I don't remember hearing anything about your car?
Made one pass at the SO and took out the center diff.

NDgsx said:
If so how are those tires working for you? I have to figure out some better tires next season, it's either bog or spin, no in between. Nothing like pulling 1.90 all day long when I used to do 1.75s :rolleyes:
They suck for trying to control 500lbft of torque I need real tires. Along with a cage, safety equipment, bigger fuel pump etc.
 
What is the hot cam for the 2.4s? I'm thinking the Crower 64414 right now. To go with a GT35R or FP3575. Other possibilities include the Crower 64415's, JUN, Comp -200's, FP cams. Any suggestions or experiences? Any data?

Thanks,
Jay
 
rdrkt said:
468 at 23lbs in a hot awd dyno room is pretty damn close.



Made one pass at the SO and took out the center diff.


They suck for trying to control 500lbft of torque I need real tires. Along with a cage, safety equipment, bigger fuel pump etc.

Yeah it just sounds low to me for 127.

I've been thinking about getting MT et street drs in 255/50/16. I can't run 15s without taking my brakes off and I'm not doing that. I don't know if those tires will be enough though.
 
i am sorry guy but i am new and i am just converting from hondas and i just got a 95 awd tsi with a blown motor so i would like to do somekind of stroker i am planning on boring the motor .20 over and wanted to get a new crank so what crank should i go with i know FP has a 100mm crank for like 700 dollars anyways any advice would be really appreciated the car has a 16g and will be used in a 1/8 mile track as well as street driven since i am selling my 2000 si to fund the project i dont mind spending so money to do the car right i just want advice from you guys on how to go about the build and what cams and were to get the parts and also should i scrap the 16g and what tuning system do you guys recommend sorry for the long question just i really need quality advice from people i trust thanks
 
step one, buy stroker crank and pistons, step 2 buy big ass turbo, step 3 buy big ass cams, step 4 buy big ass intercooler, step 5 buy dsmlink and big ass injectors, step 6 enjoy your fast ass car :thumb:


It's not a terribly complicated equation, LOL.

It is all depending on what you want to do with the car, hell you might not even need to stroke it to achieve your goals, although stroking is always fun
 
i want to stroke it for the added torque and faster spool up and all that groovy stuff i want the car to be a 1/8th mile car as that is our only local track and i will not be happy with it running slower than 7's I know thats really fast but i dont think its unreasonable considering i will be using the money from my the sell of my other car
 
that's how I am, in SD the closest track within 5 hours is an 1/8th mile track, so I'm shooting for sevens there. I want it bad too... I'd be the first sport compact to break into the sevens. I don't think it'll be hard, I just hope nobody does it before oct. 10th...
 
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