Porting Tools [Merged 3-8] Tool die grinder Dremel

[Wobble]

dont bother with the head, get a 1g head, it flows more than a ported 2g one will..

the exhaust mani, 02, turbo exhaust housing are easy to port, just need a die grinder and a bit and look at VFAQ how to do it.,

 

[ChicagoGSX]

Originally posted by Wobble
dont bother with the head, get a 1g head, it flows more than a ported 2g one will..

the exhaust mani, 02, turbo exhaust housing are easy to port, just need a die grinder and a bit and look at VFAQ how to do it.,

A 2g head is better for porting if you are willing to spend the money for someone who really knows DSM heads. The 2g has more material so it allows them to better shape it. However in most cases a 1g head will be better.

 

[allwheelTSI]

first off,you guys are'nt paying attention. his 2g is a 420a,so the 1ghead is'nt gonna do him any good.

i would'nt reccomend porting your own head if you are'nt experienced,because its pretty easy to make your head flow worse if you don't know what you're doing. and also,if you send to a good shop,they will put it on a flowbench and you will know for a fact that it flows better.

 

[Defiant]

Most people who are sharp at porting learned it from ruining a couple of heads.
However, virtually any monkey can do a good cleanup and polishing job, and polishing can be of significant benefit for an N/T.

 

[DSMJim]

If you don't know what your doing with a head don't even bother. You can't polish the intake much because it doesn't create much turbulance in the incomming air and thus does not mix up the air and fuel well before enterin the combustions chamber. The exhaust you can do whatever you want.

If you just hog out the intake you lose velocity, if you polish it the air and fuel doesn't mix, if you lower the port it creates a better path for air to enter on some intake manifolds, if you raise the port it creates more velocity but worse angle, again depending on the head and intake design.

Basically what I'm telling you is if you have not done porting for a living don't even bother with the head.

The exhaust manifold etc etc is a snap. Just get your diegrinder out and run it from an Air compressor (you'll kill a dremmel, dont even try) and use stone bits and grind the exhaust all out.. If you work you way through it you can get good results. Here is my exhaust manifold and turbo housing.

Before Porting:

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After Porting:

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[Groomz]

Turbulence is all fine and dandy for making low-end torque on a five-O. You want power, port the hell out of that head ( or have someone knowledgeable do it ) so it can flow as much as possible, especially if you want to go turbo later. Although 2G heads have more material on them, in terms of flow numbers, a 1G head 9 out of 10 times will flow more. From what I've 'searched' , the 1G head from '93-'94 is the best for power buildups. Just something for you 4G63 guys. 420A dude, get a Stage III turbo kit and show us something cool. Layta.....

 

[Colossus]

Actually, I was meaning for my 1g TSi. Not the 2g NT

 

[DSMJim]

Originally posted by Groomz
Turbulence is all fine and dandy for making low-end torque on a five-O. You want power, port the hell out of that head ( or have someone knowledgeable do it ) so it can flow as much as possible, especially if you want to go turbo later. Although 2G heads have more material on them, in terms of flow numbers, a 1G head 9 out of 10 times will flow more. From what I've 'searched' , the 1G head from '93-'94 is the best for power buildups. Just something for you 4G63 guys. 420A dude, get a Stage III turbo kit and show us something cool. Layta.....

The largest hole will not necessarily flow the most air. Port velocity is the one of the biggest concerns when porting a head. If you just go in there and hog out the holes so they are larger you head will likely flow worse by as much as 10% or more. There are angles, taper, port height etc etc to take into consideration when porting a head. There are different porting methods for turbo cars vs. an N/A car. There are so many different things happening in your head that just making the hole larger will not simply flow more air. It's the theory and particular change that makes one head porter better than another. Porting is sort of a "black art" where everybody has their own method.

I saw a comparison once of a stock head vs. a home port job and the home port job was worse than a stock head. The comparison was illustrating the need to have somebody do the work who knows what they are doing and supporting the age old theory of you get what you pay for. You pay nothing, generally you get that much or less, especially on something like head porting.

 

[Groomz]

This wasn't an endorsement for Joe Blow porting jobs. Porting is definitely something that should be left to the professionals, especially porting a head. Turbine housings and getting rid of cast flashings are easy, but you want someone who knows what to do when it comes to getting more air out of a cylinder head. Porting can hurt performance if done incorrectly, but it can also help. ( Duh )
www.slowboyracing.com
I am planning on running a Magnus SMIM w/ an SBR Stage III head.

 

[DSMJim]

Originally posted by Groomz
This wasn't an endorsement for Joe Blow porting jobs. Porting is definitely something that should be left to the professionals, especially porting a head. Turbine housings and getting rid of cast flashings are easy, but you want someone who knows what to do when it comes to getting more air out of a cylinder head. Porting can hurt performance if done incorrectly, but it can also help. ( Duh )
www.slowboyracing.com
I am planning on running a Magnus SMIM w/ an SBR Stage III head.

Right, this is what im refering to. Leave it to somebody who knows what they are doing with a head, Marco at Magnus or Mike from Slow Boy are good examples of places to get the work done. Combined with a SMIM is a great setup.

 

[turbohappy]

What bits should I be using? It seems like everything I try wears down ridiculously fast.

 

[QuickerDSM]

You want porting burs for doing real port work. A dremel will NOT work for porting a head or intake manifold. Use a pneumatic die grinder or heavy duty electric porting grinder for the job.

Summit racing sells burs (with 1/4" dia. shank) in different lengths, shapes and sizes. If porting aluminum you want the burs with the larger deep cut grooves, if porting cast iron use the burs with smaller cross-cut grooves. Also, have a cup of 40 or 50 weight oil to dip the burs in. This helps tremendously at keeping the burs from plugging with material. If you use a pneumatic grinder, set your pressure regulator to about 40psi while running the grinder. This is a good overall speed that will keep chatter down and still fast enough to remove material quickly and efficiently. Harbor Freight sells pneumatic grinders cheap and last a fairly long time if oiled frequently. I buy them 4 at a time and load a bur into each grinder. This saves a lot of time because you can just pop the grinders on/off instead of using one grinder and changing burs.

Hope that helps. Good luck.

Mike

 

[turbohappy]

Originally posted by QuickerDSM
Hope that helps. Good luck.
Mike

Thanks a TON! I was doing everything but the Summit bits and the oil. I went through like 5 beefy looking bits just trying to open up the centerbore on a set of wheels a little bit, so I figured I'd find out how to do it right before I tried on something else

Are they the ones that are $50+?

 

[QuickerDSM]

Originally posted by turbohappy

Thanks a TON! I was doing everything but the Summit bits and the oil. I went through like 5 beefy looking bits just trying to open up the centerbore on a set of wheels a little bit, so I figured I'd find out how to do it right before I tried on something else

Are they the ones that are $50+?

Good quality burs range from 15.00 to 30.00 each but they last a long time. I've ported several pairs of heads (aluminum V8 heads) with the same burs. Check around locally at specialty tool shops. If they don't carry them, ask who does. Eventually you'll find someone local that carries them and they may even sharpen them. You can also try machine shops. They may not sell them, but they buy them from someone who does.

Mike

 

[Defiant]

Using chalk on the burrs when cutting aluminum will help a great deal, too.

 

[neuralracing]

What is the best bang for your buck as far as a tool to do Porting? Where can I get one and what should I expect to pay?

 

[dave99gst]

die grinder -- northern tool - price = $50-400 depending.

 

[neuralracing]

Thats a big swing... $50-$400.... what do I need to port my Turbo... Mani... o2 housing etc... which one exactly sghould I get?

 

[VBGSX]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44141

have fun

 

[Defiant]

If you're having to ask about what tool to use, please don't try to port much more than matching gaskets. It's not a "try-and-see" exercise.

 

[neuralracing]

How am I supposed to learn if I do not ask?

 

[JessesTalon]

Can I use this for porting o2 and turbo and such?

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00918879000

Craftsman Heavy Duty Die Grinder with Case

Includes 10 grinding points and case! Heavy-duty grinder has tough ball bearing construction for long life. No-load speed of 22,000 rpm. Built-in regulator and rear exhaust.

Average 6.0 SCFM at 90 PSI. Grinding points include 5 with 1/4 in. shank and 5 with 1/8 in. shank. Also includes collet wrench, 1/8 in. collet adapter and plastic case.

 

[JessesTalon]

on another page

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...rtical=TOOL&pid=00919025000&tab=specs#tablink

this one comes with 7 carbide bits... im assuming I would rather get this one, but it is twice as expensive.

Also with these 2 products, do I need to buy something else to make these work, like a air compressor or something, it doesn't say you have to... but im curious does anyone have an opinion or want to let me know?

 

[Raph]

u need A COMPRESSOR....

 

[1fast97gsx]

you need an air compressor and hose.