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Porting Tools [Merged 3-8] Tool die grinder Dremel

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Originally posted by InferiorWang

And mebbe we should all dimple our catbacks so that we can get max airflow out. Air flows incredibly well over smooth surfaces. That's why everyone likes shiny mandrel bent stuff.

Actually, fluids (and that includes air) flow better over rough surfaces. This is why a shark's skin feels like sandpaper.

People like shiny stuff because it looks pretty. Consider chrome-plated engine parts.
 
I keep reading "carbide bits" I need to know exsactly part bit and where it is I'm looking for. I asked the dude at Sears if I could use a routor "carbide bit" in my die grinder, and he looked at me like WTF... I need to know parts#'s and everthing !! I don't wanna buy the wrong $30 bit..
 
Originally posted by ttawd3s
I keep reading "carbide bits" I need to know exsactly part bit and where it is I'm looking for. I asked the dude at Sears if I could use a routor "carbide bit" in my die grinder, and he looked at me like WTF... I need to know parts#'s and everthing !! I don't wanna buy the wrong $30 bit..

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/se...=/Metalworking,+Welding+&+Lubrication/Cutting

click on the carbide bur link, 1/4" for die grinders and 1/8" for dremels...i would recommend using a die grinder 100%
 
i was told the stones are better for steel/iron, but carbite bits are for alum. The reason people use carbide on alum. is b/c the stones would get clogged up with soft alum.

What do you guys think about that ?
 
Originally posted by ttawd3s
i was told the stones are better for steel/iron, but carbite bits are for alum. The reason people use carbide on alum. is b/c the stones would get clogged up with soft alum.

What do you guys think about that ?

i would tend to disagree. stones take a very small amount of metal out at a time and you will be there all year porting, the carbide bits rip the stuff apart. you have to be careful when using carbide on alum. because the bit will get so hot the aluminum shards will attach to the teeth of the bit.
 
That's why most places recommend you use a medium speed drill for the carbide bits.
 
I'm going to be using a die grinder... I'm going to get both anyway.. I have two stealth turbine housings/manifolds/exhaust ports to port and the same things on a Talon Turbo, so I'm gonna have plenty to port, I have all the tools: Elec. drill, die grinder ( and big compressor ), and drimal, so all I need is the bit/bits..
 
Just be careful with the die grinder. Try to not keep it at full speed or you might start to see the bit binding up. If you need any bits, just let me know. I posted prices earlier.
 
Originally posted by eyebrowski
craftsman die grinder- $89
carbide bit- $25

you can get a cheaper grinder off of ebay for ~$15 but my experience with them is the 1/4" collets are cheap and if you get any chatter off the manifold while you are grinding you will grenade it (i have done it twice). the carbide bit is a must...nothing else will hold up and you will go through TONS of stones or steel bits.

Can you post a link to the craftsman die grinder. I went to the Sears website, but could only find angle grinders.

Thanks
 
The ruffstuff.com is a real good place for bits. I just got mine today and they grind really well. I had a question too, if i port out my manny to 7 cm but leave my t-25 the same, is that going to hurt the performance?
 
I don't know how much it's going to help since all the extra space you port will still be solid metal on the other side. All it's going to do is bounce more exhaust gas off of the turbo exhaust housing and turn it a different color. It would make it easier to port it later since it will leave a discolored ring.
 
I bought myself a Makita Die Grinder, this one in fact. It's not 25000 rpm but it doesn't even blink at cast iron. I was using an air grinder and it would slow RIGHT down when it would be under load but this Makita just powers through like the cast iron was butter. I bought my carbide bits from ruffstuff.com. Make sure to buy trees and flames if you're going deeper than the very lip because if you draw out a cylinder with the sharp end you'll put a nice big gouge in what you're porting (as I found out on my o2 housing which gave me an excuse to buy an o2 eliminator downpipe but that's neither here nor there) I used my dremel with a flap wheel to sand as the grinder works fine but was too slow for my taste but if you don't have one don't sweat it. I highly recommend the variable speed Makita over the Crapsman one that's just high speed though as you don't always want to have it spinning at full speed...
 
I just ported out my manny and t-25, and wow was it easy with the carbide bits and die grinder. I just ported the opening and got rid of the step on the t25 untill i upgrade. took me like 2 hrs to do both. The flame is the best bit to use for tight places. Its gives you a really good transition when porting. I got my electric die grinder for like 14 bucks and it works fine.
 
I've been waiting to buy one from the guy that said he could get them cheap, and he wasn't lieing about cheap, but he hasn't e-mailed me back in the last day or so and I'm ready to rock, the stones and little dremel carbide bits just aren't cutting it.. I spent 6 hours on just one of my exhaust manifolds, and its still not quite done...
 
Dude, I just got the prices for everything and I apologize. I've been studying for a HUGE Organic Chemistry test all week and I've been stressing a lot. It's going to be like 35-40 for the two bits with the 1/4" shank and 1/2" diameter head. This includes the shipping and you should have it in 3-5 days. Just give me an address and you can just send me a check as soon as I get the final price with shipping.
 
Hey guys were can i buy an AIR die grinder and Bits to do some porting on my intake manifold for my 1G throttle body swap??? what kind of bits would i need??? thanx guys!!!!
 
Sears Hardware, Ace Hardware, walmart, pretty much anywhere for the grinder. I think you need carbide bits to at least do a light porting job. The best is to buy a porting kit. Summit racing has one for like 35 bucks
 
Porting blows.

Since I have no job-oriented tools, I'm using an electric (plug-in, not with batteries crap) drill and a bit that works like magic compared to all the other stupid 'stone' bits for grinding and deburring (these self-destruct very quickly and do almost nothing).

Only thing sucks, drill is only 2,700 RPM max. The bit could be used at 5,000 RPM max.

If I wasn't lazy and not taking so many breaks, I could do the collector on exhaust manifold in 20 minutes or less. The grinding/deburring stones would take maybe um.... 20 years and you would waste a fortune in $?
 

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Get some railroad chalk (big stuff, about 1" diameter) and load the wheel with it first- it'll keep the bit from loading up with aluminum. Repeat frequently.
Craftsman has a nice variable-speed electric die grinder for about $50.
 
Railroad chalk? Never heard of it. Anyway, I'm not porting anything aluminum.
 
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