Porting Checklist

[CrazyM]

Yes I have read, and read and read some more!

I just have a few last minute questions\reassurance points.

I have to port the Outlet of the Exhaust mani(the collector are I believe its called, correct me if I'm wrong please)
I know I have to port the turbo Inlet to 7CM, which clears up room for the gases to have easy access to the wastegate.
Port inlet to this: http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/porting/turbo-inlet08.jpg
I have to port behind the wastegate flapper so that it can open the full 90*.
I have to port the O2 housing to get rid of the little lip on the downpipe side.


I am not clear on what I need to port exactly on these places:

The inlet of the O2 housing: This Area----> http://vfaq.com/proj-pics/porting/O2housing01.jpg
For this area, Do I just port out the little bit and gasket match? Do I only gasket match on the O2 Housing side?

Also, the Wastegate hole. How much do I port there? I have the stock flapper still.

My main goal is to eliminate boost creep before I even have it(full 3" Turbo back over winter).

Now if anyone knows I'm wrong in any way,shape or form, please feel free to correct me.

 

[kenamond]

I assume you're porting your 14b?

I'd recommend picking up a 2g mani to port instead of the 1g if you haven't already. It'd be a shame to spend all that time porting and have it crack through (my 2g mani was MUCH harder material to port than the turbine (TH was like butter in comparison), and the O2 was even harder). The 1g manis are more crack-prone than the 2g, and porting isn't going to help that out.

If the turbo is still fully assembled, apply pressure to the WGA and see how far it turns the flapper lever on the turbine housing. If it doesn't move it too far, don't worry so much about getting the flapper to open 90°, as it can't open that far anyway. The only reason I'd get it to open 90° is so that it's out of your way for porting the WG hole from the O2 side (opening it up a bit).

Get a scribe and lay the gasket (mani-turbo or turbin-O2) on whatever you're porting very carefully to line up bolt holes, etc. Scribe inside the gasket and color the part of the face to be removed with a black sharpie. When you get close to the scribe line, it'll start to hide from you, so you have to "get careful" when you get close. I just looked at it from a few angles until the light caught the scribe line just right. The black ink will help. I don't know if they make special pens for this or not, but a sharpie might be good enough.

When you portmatch the turbine/O2 housings, you want gradual transitions. That picture of the O2 housing from VFAQ isn't "done" (atleast I wouldn't call it done). I think he's just illustrating that you change a circular hole into a bell-shaped hole to match the gasket.

If you're porting all three, you might need 3 burs. I went through 2 on all 3 parts, but the 2nd bur was dull by the time I gave up on the O2 housing. Let the tool do the work if you can, and a dull bur won't do the work. I recommend double-cut or diamond cut cylinder-radius-end burs with a 1" flute length and 1/2" diameter (probably 1/4" shank diameter). I used 2" shanks, and I got deep enough into everything.

If you search online, you can find flap wheels much cheaper than at a hardware store. Don't get Dremel brand and you save a lot. Also, I'd get 3 of the 80 grit and 3 of something like 120 grit. After you port, clean up the major bumps and facets left by the bur with 80 grit. Then use the 120 grit to get the surface smoother. Don't do like I did and use hand-sanding. The Dremel tool will do the same in 1/20th the time.

I've posted several times with pictures of my mani collector and turbine housing and info on porting. If you haven't read them and are interested, let me know and I'll track them down (or just search for posts with "porting" in the body that "kenamond" has posted to). And then there's the "How to cure boost creep by porting" tech article which I learned from before I ported.

Finally, if you have a spare housing lying around, I'd practice on it. I ported my destroyed T25 just to get used to things. Turned out nice!

 

[Shady1687]

take your exhaust mani, o2 housing, and turbo and grab the gaskets for them and place the gaskets on each part with them lined up correctly how they should go and grab a sharpie marker and draw the outline of the gasket on the part and grab to the line to port match each part with the gasket. also make sure you have the right tools becasue even with the right tools this take a longgg time.

 

[ApexVIII]

what bit are you going to use?

i just started my 14B last night i have a 1/4" shank electric die grinder, and a doubble cut carbide bit and it did alot of work fast!

 

[CrazyM]

I am using a Tree shaped bit.

I started on the turbo inlet today. I KNOW this is not done, but was wondering can anyone tell me what and where I need to do more porting.... Other than the lip is still there at some spots, and the crack. I plan on having this turbo till mid summer so it should be fine.

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[ApexVIII]

are you using a 1/8" shank like a dremal or a 1/4" like a air/electric die grinder?

 

[CrazyM]

I am using a 1\4" air die grinder.

 

[ApexVIII]

looks good so far, im also lost on where exactly to port other then gasket match the inlet to 7cm, andin the WG flapper alittle.

Where else??

 

[CrazyM]

Where else??

For the turbine housing all I know is behind that little flapper and gasket match the rest, as well as make sure the 02 does not get in the way of the flapper, and gasket match that as well.

 

[ApexVIII]

and the part that goes from the inlet and maks the turn toward the WG right?

 

[CrazyM]

Thats what I've read so that's what I'm doing Just easier passage for the gasses is the idea here right. Do you have any pics of what you have done so far?

 

[ApexVIII]

Thats what I've read so that's what I'm doing Just easier passage for the gasses is the idea here right. Do you have any pics of what you have done so far?

im at work right now , i only spent 2-3 min last night just to see how fast it would cut through. ill try to post some later though.

 

[CrazyM]

im at work right now , i only spent 2-3 min last night just to see how fast it would cut through. ill try to post some later though.

Oh, alright...We'll Im going to try and port some more, finish up? tonight too. We will see how it goes!

 

[ApexVIII]

ya post pictures!

 

[97GSTAUTO]

Where are you guys buying your burrs from?

 

[DSMunknown]

Ewww, porting. Disgusting.

 

[CrazyM]

My Dad had a couple. He's a mechanic so that's where I got mine. You can get them at local auto stores. like Napa and Autozone and such.

 

[ApexVIII]

here are my pictures, this is about 20-25 min of work,
Stock 14B unported with 7cm gasket so you can see how big it needs to be.

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14B -----ROUGH PORT----- not finished, 7cm gasket matched, and a little porting only

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[97GSTAUTO]

My Dad had a couple. He's a mechanic so that's where I got mine. You can get them at local auto stores. like Napa and Autozone and such.

I tried 2 autozones and 1 advance auto and niether one had anything other then the stones. I am currently porting 2g tb elbow to match 1g tb , 2g o2 and 2g manifold to match 1g tb. I worked on the elbow yesterday and it took for ever and killed 3 stones. WTF
I found one on ebay NEW 4 PIECE CARBIDE BURR SET 1/4 INCH SHANKS - eBay (item 120220450783 end time Feb-15-08 19:03:28 PST) hopefully these guys work.

 

[gsx951]

I have often found burrs on Ebay that were good quality for little money.
I have an 8pc set that I bought several years ago that was only $25.00

Industrial Supply stores like MSC, Production Tool, Grainger and McMaster-Carr will have what you need.

 

[kenamond]

1" flute length, 1/2" diameter, 1/4" shank dia., double-cut cylinder-radius-end tungsten carbide burs cost about $20 each. You can get slightly smaller flute length and diameter for around $15 each. I've never found any of these burs at anything but industrial supply stores or online, and the prices above are about the cheapest I've found anywhere, and that was from online stores.

 

[ApexVIII]

I tried 2 autozones and 1 advance auto and niether one had anything other then the stones. I am currently porting 2g tb elbow to match 1g tb , 2g o2 and 2g manifold to match 1g tb. I worked on the elbow yesterday and it took for ever and killed 3 stones. WTF
I found one on ebay NEW 4 PIECE CARBIDE BURR SET 1/4 INCH SHANKS - eBay (item 120220450783 end time Feb-15-08 19:03:28 PST) hopefully these guys work.

ig you are doing aluminum, you dont want double cut, it clogs up to fast, trust me i port Throttle body's for LS1's you want ones like this
USA ASSORTED 5/8" CARBIDE BURRS-QTY-4 FOR ALUMINUM NEW - eBay (item 200200275216 end time Feb-21-08 08:27:02 PST)
they wont get clogged up and make really quick work!!

 

[CrazyM]

Sorry for the half false Info. I know someone on here told me Napa carried them. As well my local parts store called 'Chieftan' carried them as well so I figured it would be common at most auto stores.

 

[97GSTAUTO]

NP, I thought the regular auto stores would too. I guess they are just used to using old school stones. I went through 4 stones yesterday porting out my intake manifold to accept the 1g tb. What a mess. It took 2 hours. Mostly because I have a 20 gal compressor and I would run out of air in no time. Im gonna wait until my burrs come in before I start on my o2 sensor housing. You know I never went to NAPA to see if they have one.

 

[gsx951]

Another thing that really works well here is a cartridge roll, especially for cleaning up after the carbide.
You can quickly remove the chatter marks and leave a very smooth finish.

FMSC - Cartridge Rolls and Mandrels