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420A Please HELP! 2gNT A/T dying randomly and not starting again.

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vbgmcpu

Probationary Member
28
1
Jan 14, 2024
California
Okay, I've been having this problem for quite a while now but today has been the last straw for me after the car dying while taking my cat to an emergency run to the vet.

I've been having this issue where the engine randomly shuts off and a red oil indicator shows up menacingly on my cluster. I thought this issue might have been fixed after changing the pigtail connectors for both Crankshaft and Camshaft sensors and upgrading 97's on my 95. But apparently that's not the case.

I've also already replaced spark plugs, spark cables, and basically most of engine maintenance to say the least. Any idea why this happens?

Engine seems to run perfectly fine when this is not happening, and the car very much responds accordingly to its condition

Also my car's transmission is A/T and not only is it leaking very faintly but every time I shift it into D seems like the orange castle thingy on my cluster comes up (It is the security light right? LOL). Followed by my A/T aggressively kicking and basically being prone to grenade itself. Not one of my worries as of right now since I hope to go M/T Swap in the near future but, might that be the issue?

Forgot to mention, this happens after a while when I get to drive, probably like a mile or two and the car decides to die and give crank but no start. Sometimes tho the car decides to not follow this pattern and allows for me to use it for a more extended period of time.
 
Do you have any check engine light codes?
My first thought is loose or corroded grounding straps. Followed by an issue with the fuel pump or MPI relay. Might also be worth opening up the ECU and look for corrosion/bad caps.
 
No need to open the ECU on a 420A car. It isn't issue prone, or very inspectable.

Do you ever get abnormal readings from the temperature gauge?
 
No need to open the ECU on a 420A car. It isn't issue prone, or very inspectable.

Do you ever get abnormal readings from the temperature gauge?
Yes, this has happened before however I related it to a coolant system issue, once when I was teaching my gf how to drive. The car got ABNORMALLY hot. Like literally over the red line (atleast that's what the temp gauge said) I topped up the coolant however and this issue has yet to be seen (Or maybe I haven't pushed the car as hard, who knows)
 
Do you have any check engine light codes?
My first thought is loose or corroded grounding straps. Followed by an issue with the fuel pump or MPI relay. Might also be worth opening up the ECU and look for corrosion/bad caps.
Check Engine light came by when the car died and gave crank but no start, other than that the check engine is always off while engine is on
 
You should still be able to pull the code unless you disconnected the battery.
Might borrow a another code reader to try it on my car. I used a OBD scanner with the Mitsubishi OBD-1 port connector but it didn't seem to work. My 2G is a 95 Eagle Talon, does that have anything to do with the reader not working?
 
All US production 2G DSM's should be OBDII compliant, so you should be able to use a standard connector.
Well we learn something new every day I guess, I used Autel's Autolink OBD II reader and it did connect, however it didn't seem to throw back any codes :hmm: also same case scenario, car randomly dies on an incline and gives crank no start, however no engine light is to be seen when cranking
 
You should still be able to pull the code unless you disconnected the battery.
Yeah, I think I messed up when I said it gave up an engine light while cranking no start, might be the self-detection thing you get after trying to start it over and over again. Same error tho, just different incline
 
Ok so, I tried scanning and no code showed up, I went back to the basics and unchecked fuel and compression but spark was missing. Had to push my car from just around the corner to get it in the garage... I think I might somehow still have either a faulty crankshaft sensor or a bad ignition coil since spark plugs are new and so are cables, anyways. I'll keep this thread updated when I crack this case since this has been a pain for me for the last couple of days (one of many LOL)
 
Forgot to ever reply to this, solved this a while ago but it might be useful for somebody so here I go. I decided to experiment and switched the round-pin connector for the Ignition Coil to the squared one as well as I did for both Cam and Crank sensors. I changed the Ignition Coil I bought for an SRT-4 instead and took the cables for warranty, put new spark plugs once again and mounted everything and I’ve yet to see the car die again on me :D. I have a suspicion it was a faulty Ignition Coil or the round-pin connector that was messing things up.
 
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