Please double check my timing

[bane3d]

I've never timed this engine before and got it back with the wrong parts from the builder. I took off the motor mount (had a 1g) and replaced all timing components. I'm following blcknspooln's write up http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/273973-pictorial-installing-timing-timing-belt-6bolt-2g.html

This is a 6 bolt block with a 2G head. I still need to verify the auto-tensioner is at 5/32, but everything else looks pretty good. Unfortunately, it took 4 tries to get it to this point.

Please look over my work. It currently takes about 20lbs of pressure to turn the crank and while turning, it alternates between easy (10lbs) and harder (20lbs) pressures to turn the crank. Is this normal?

d

 

[black_gst]

It currently takes about 20lbs of pressure to turn the crank and while turning, it alternates between easy (10lbs) and harder (20lbs) pressures to turn the crank. Is this normal?

d

are your spark plugs in?

everything looks good. the tensioner looks to be in the right spot for a 6 bolt so i think your good

 

[talonDSMerr]

It looks spot on to me. It is also normal for the crank to alternate between easy to rotate and more difficult to rotate. Turning the crank as valves are opening, you have to overcome the valve spring pressure, while turning the crank as valves are closing, the spring pressure will aid in turning the crank.

A good way to verify the tensioner is in the correct spot is to torque the pulley, turn the crank several revolutions, wait 10-15 minutes and then try inserting the grenade pin back through the tensioner body and its arm. If tensioned correctly, it should slide through freely.

 

[TSITurbo95]

Everything looks spot on. And it is normal for it to get harder and easier to crank.

 

[bane3d]

I appreciate everyone's feedback.

are your spark plugs in?

No plugs in

A good way to verify the tensioner is in the correct spot is to torque the pulley, turn the crank several revolutions, wait 10-15 minutes and then try inserting the grenade pin back through the tensioner body and its arm. If tensioned correctly, it should slide through freely.

I'm not quite following you on this. Are you talking about the pulley on the tension arm? I'm following this:

"So, spin the engine 6 times (watch the dowel pin, it should start at 12o'clock and do 6 FULL revolutions to 12 o'clock again before all timing marks line up again.) WAIT 15 minutes and then check the gap on the auto tensioner with 2 drill bits. The factory spec for the gap is between .15 and .177"; Commonly used drill bits to measure these sizes are 5/32" (.157) to 11/64 (.172). To be obvious, the gap must LARGER than 5/32" and smaller than 11/64"."

d

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

Looks spot on from what I can tell. I also followed Blcknspooln's writeup, especially since I have a 6 bolt swap as well. My balance shafts are eliminated so only the crank and cam gear timing marks were lined up for me.

I'm not quite following you on this. Are you talking about the pulley on the tension arm? I'm following this:

I think he means that if it's timed/tensioned properly then the tensioner holes should line up to where you can insert the small allen wrench through the holes without difficulty. I never attempted this when I did my timing job though, never read it anywhere.

 

[muddfisher85]

Looks good to me. Just make sure the timing marks on the cams are level with the head. I always use a zip tie to make sure they line up. But from the picture it looks fine.

 

[BogusSVO]

On a side note, I hope you enlarged the head bolt holes in the 2g head to accept the 1g head bolts/studs.

 

[black_gst]

On a side note, I hope you enlarged the head bolt holes in the 2g head to accept the 1g head bolts/studs.

he had to or else you can't even get the head on, ask me how I know

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

he had to or else you can't even get the head on, ask me how I know

Exactly

 

[BogusSVO]

he had to or else you can't even get the head on, ask me how I know

Ahhhhh.. you can, but it is a PITA, seen it done..head set on the block then the studs installed.

 

[bane3d]

The head came from my previous 6bolt w/ 2g head before my crank shaft bearings seized from lack of oil after 1500 gentle break in miles. Luckily, it didn't bend any valves. Once I get timing done properly, I'm going to grab my pancake, get a good pressure valve, and test the pressure across the board.

d

 

[KeelesKustome]

You may want to consider, spot welding the nut on your oil pump, while you can get to it. Even with red locktight, we've had issues with it eventually loosening up.