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Piston help

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Boosted_talon98

10+ Year Contributor
170
0
Apr 11, 2009
Keyser, West Virginia
Ok so the machine shop finally got to me.. They call me and inform me that cylinder #1 has 6 thousand of inch and 2 3 4 all have 4 of clearance... I am running wiseco 8:1s I lost my paper on them I figure 6 will work but I was wondering if I would have any piston slap.. I am gonna re ring it and then try to get by.. I called other machine shop that bored .20 over 3000 miles ago and they said they left more clearance in that cylinder because of water pump LOL.. any input will be greatly appreciated
 
dont know about clearance and water pump issue but yes you will have a small amount of piston slap. I did everything to recommended spec by wiseco and I have piston slap till it warms up.
 
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dont know about clearance and water pump issue but yes you will have a small amount of piston slap. I did everything to recommended spec by wiseco and I have piston slap till it warms up.

THAT WILL PISS ME OFF SO BAD>>> The machine shop messes with nothing but v8s and they told me they left me more clearance on that cylinder because of the water pump sitting near that cylinder.. What does wiseco recomend for clearance 4 thousandths
 
They owe you a block! One reason is that their "water pump" theory is backwards. If anything they should have left less clearance there because of the water pump. Point being that the water pump is fed by the lower radiator hose. It sits next to the #1 cylinder. The first cylinder to get that cooler water coming from the radiator will be the #1. With that cooler water the piston/cylinder is likely to expand less. An expanded/heated forged piston will fit a cylinder better and produce less slap. A cooler piston/cylinder will not expand as much and therefor (in theory) require LESS piston to wall clearance. Too much clearance....slap slap slap.
 
i forget what wiseco recommnds but I will look for my paperwork from them. it was two years ago and i dont know if that is some of the paperwork i kept but i will go look for it right now. ok so i found the paperwork in about 2 minutes!! yes wiseco normally recommends .004 clearance but in turbo blower and nitrous situations .005 is a better gap due to how much the pistons swell due to the high heat under boost. acording to my paperwork I had the shop due a .005 piston to wall clearance. and yes i due have piston slap on start up but after the engine gets a little past 165 degrees it all goes away. i put a clutch bypass switch in the car and have a remote start so i just hit the button about 5 minutes before im going to move the car at all and dont have any piston slap by the time i get in. then again i built my motor with the intentions of boosting 30 psi some day so clearance and ring gap are pretty big in my car.
 
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They owe you a block! One reason is that their "water pump" theory is backwards. If anything they should have left less clearance there because of the water pump. Point being that the water pump is fed by the lower radiator hose. It sits next to the #1 cylinder. The first cylinder to get that cooler water coming from the radiator will be the #1. With that cooler water the piston/cylinder is likely to expand less. An expanded/heated forged piston will fit a cylinder better and produce less slap. A cooler piston/cylinder will not expand as much and therefor (in theory) require LESS piston to wall clearance. Too much clearance....slap slap slap.

Ok I called them and told them this and they said that they do not warranty any race motors or performance motors.. IDK WHAT TO DO.. I paid them 1400 dollars in labor just to bore it .20 over and polish my crank and etc...
 
I believe that if they purposely put the #1 cylinder at .006" because of the water pump, then they need to replace it, because that is just BS. Now if they put them all at .004" and then #1 went to .006" on its own, then that is another thing.

What all did you have done? A bore and block decking is only going to cost me ~$120. I couldn't imagine a crank polishing, balancing (if done), piston pressed to rod (if done), hot tanked, painted (if done), could cost that much. Did they assemble the engine for you? Tear it down?
 
ive had big block V8's hot tanked, magnafluxed, decked bored and had heads decked all at the same time and it only cost $350 to $400. 1400 is alot to pay!!
 
I called other machine shop that bored .20 over 3000 miles ago and they said they left more clearance in that cylinder because of water pump LOL.. any input will be greatly appreciated
They are d*ck smokers. Yes, they are burning you for their own incompetence. Pretty crappy thing to do.

Ok I called them and told them this and they said that they do not warranty any race motors or performance motors.. IDK WHAT TO DO.. I paid them 1400 dollars in labor just to bore it .20 over and polish my crank and etc...
And that is the popular way to get out of it. And on top of all that, they stole your money at that price. H EE double toothpicks, you could have sent the parts to my shop, we could have done the work and sent it back to you for 1/2 that price.

The only position that you might be able to take is the fact that they did not follow the manufacturers specs. but that would probably include your state DMV and possibly lawyers. Wish I had better news, but that's about it. Just some d*ck smokers taking advantage. They are turd.

MB
 
I'm from the Cumberland area what shop did u go to and what all did u have them do because $1400 is a lot if they not building every thing.

I took it to cresap mayn.. I heard they were the best shop around here...I took my block into to them and they said they are going to re ring it and they said my ring should cover .002 to .008 clearance and that I won't hear any slap.. wow I got ####ed.. 2120.00 was my final total. 1156.00 in labor
 
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